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invicta59

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Everything posted by invicta59

  1. invicta59
    Hi Andy.. I asked Martyn from Phil Haley and his Comments, who is an excellent bassist and remarkably talented. He uses Jargar medium strings... and he slaps vigourously Dave
  2. invicta59
    [quote name='thunderbird13' timestamp='1365679600' post='2042713'] Is it normal to slap all the way through a song or is it more used as an effect during a solo or a middle 8. [/quote] For me it depends on the song, or the style of music you're playing. Flat out rockabilly, I'd slap all the way through, but on other stuff I might just slap to add emphasis here and there [quote name='thunderbird13' timestamp='1365679600' post='2042713'] And if you do slap for some of the song and then play pizz for the rest how do you control the volume levels ? [/quote] Same as you might on a bass guitar - by adjusting your own technique to play certain bits louder or faster to suit. My setup provides an equally loud volume for both styles, so I don't find it an issue. [quote name='thunderbird13' timestamp='1365679600' post='2042713'] Apart from a high action is there anything else to change on the bass set up [/quote] High action is fine for some, but don't think it HAS to be high. I find that, with a high action, you get a loud acoustic volume, but it can be quite an effort to play hard... my action is really low compared to many, and so I can slap faster with much less physical effort. I'm not bothered about the acoustic volume from the bass... the amp does that bit.
  3. invicta59
    [quote name='fatback' timestamp='1365773403' post='2044304'] Found out lately he used to play with the fab 'King Biscuit and the Biscuit Boys' (or some name like that). [/quote] Imelda's bassist is Al Gare... you were close with the name.. King Pleasure and the Biscuit Boys. I notice that the Hotclub of Cowtown are touring the UK in October... Jake Erwin is a phenomenal player - worth a look if they play near you!
  4. invicta59
    I'm still on my Innovations Andy.. I'll ask a couple of mates I have (I know, unbelievable, innit?) and see what type they are using. Both of em are steel slappers though, rather than pizzas!
  5. invicta59
    Or... try a set of 'softer' steels that are slappable?
  6. invicta59
    First generation 700RB, putting out 380w @ 4ohm plus 50w (to tweeter). It is in good overall condition with no rips or tears to the carpeting, although it is a bit 'fluffy' in places from handling. It is in good working order and has never let me down. Only selling due to upgrade. The Bi-amp feature is great for upright basses, as you can control the high (clicky) frequences using the tweeter volume and not have to compromise your tone. It has a nice growl using electric bass, and can hold it's own in most small to mid-size venues. Any questions? Feel free to ask [center]Looking for £300 : Not interested in trades - sorry[/center] [center][font=Arial]Collection preferred (nr. Lincoln). Happy to deliver within reasonable distance for expenses.[/font][/center] [center][font=Arial] [/font][/center] [center][/center] [center][font=Arial]Following info from official source[/font][/center] [center][color=black][font=Verdana][size=2][color=crimson][b]700RB Combo Series[/b][/color][/size][/font] [color=black][font=Verdana][size=2]The word Combo, usually implies wimpy electronics, and second rate speakers. Not true with the 700RB Series Combos. These amplifiers use the same electronics as the 700RB, and the same high performance woofers as the RBH cabinets! You get Bi-Amp Sound, 380+50 Watts (225W to internal woofer), even Speakon connectors. They share the same great hardware used on our RBH cabinets like massive custom tooled corners, 16ga steel grills, and all Birch construction. The cabinets are beveled allowing them to play up right, or rocked back for use in tight situations. And if that's not enough, they have engineered an ingenious transport system, just to make moving them easy. When you're ready to go, simply pull out the locking handle, tilt the unit back, and it will follow you anywhere.. [/size][/font][/color][/color][/center] [font=Verdana][size=2][color=black][b][u]Specifications:[/u][/b][/color][/size][/font] [color=black][font=Verdana][size=2][b]POWER <1% THD: [/b]Low-380W@4ohm, 225W@8ohm, 1kHz. (225W into intermal speaker.) High-50W@8ohm, 5KHZ.[/size][/font][/color] [b][font=Verdana][size=2][color=black]COOLING: [/color][/size][/font][/b][font=Verdana][size=2][font=Verdana][size=2][color=black]Continuously Variable Speed Fan.[/color][/size][/font][/size][/font] [font=Verdana][size=2][font=Verdana][size=2][color=black][b]INPUT[/b][/color][/size][/font][/size][/font][color=black][font=Verdana][size=2][b] SECTION: [/b]Ultra low noise S/N>90dB, Clip LED, 10dB Pad, Volume, Mute Switch and Mute LED.[/size][/font][/color] [font=Verdana][size=2][b][color=black]VOICING FILTER: [/color][/b][color=black][color=black]5/4 String Bass, Adjustable Contour and Presence.[/color][/color][/size][/font] [color=black][font=Verdana][size=2][b]EQUALIZER: [/b]Bass Specific Series Four Band Active.[/size][/font][/color] [color=black][font=Verdana][size=2][b]OUTPUT: [/b]Boost, Tweeter Level with Hi-Cut Switch and Woofer Level with Crossover Switch.[/size][/font][/color] [font=Verdana][size=2][b][color=black]DIRECT OUT: [/color][/b][color=black]XLR, Ground Lift and Pre/Post Switches.[/color][/size][/font] [color=black][font=Verdana][size=2][b]PATCHING: [/b]Send, Return and Tuner Out.[/size][/font][/color] [color=black][font=Verdana][size=2][b]PWR CONNECTORS: [/b]Two 1/4" and Two Bi-Amp Connectors.[/size][/font][/color] [font=Verdana][size=2][color=black][b]WOOFER: [/b]2xGK Paragon 10B200-16 Cast Frame 10", 200W 16 ohm High Presence Voice Coil.[/color][/size][/font] [font=Verdana][size=2][color=black][b]Tweeter: [/b]GK-Paragon 5H50-8.[/color][/size][/font] [color=black][font=Verdana][size=2][b]CONSTRUCTION: [/b]All Birch Cabinet, Black Carpet, 16 Gauge Steel Grill, Custom Tooled Interlocking Corner System, Front Loaded Port and Lock'N Roll Transport System.[/size][/font][/color] [font=Verdana][size=2][b][color=black]WEIGHT: [/color][/b][color=black]78 lbs.[/color][/size][/font] [color=black][color=black][color=#0080C0][color=#0080C0][font=Verdana][size=2][color=black][b]DIMENSIONS: [/b]23"Wx21.25"Wx15.5"D.[/color] [/size][/font][/color][/color][/color][/color]
  7. invicta59
    Congrats on your accomplishments Paul. I've seen you play on a number of video's (not yet in person) and you are an excellent player who deserves every success that you achieve. Enjoy!!
  8. invicta59
    It seems someone has finally figured out how to combine all the disadvantages of each instrument into one, pointless, instrument Whats the betting it has an outlandish price too.. not that I'd give 2 shillings for it..
  9. invicta59
    Markers on the side of the neck?
  10. invicta59
    I've not actually played a Thomann bass, but I know a few that do and they seem happy with them. I did try and show a mate a few slappy things on his newly acquired G4M bass, and it wasn't a particularly nice thing to play. Having said that - any bass you buy will need a setup, but without playing one, you won't have any idea how you want it set up :/ I would suggest popping along to a local luthier and having a chat with him/her about the possible costs that you may incur to turn your out-of-the-crate bass into something nicer.. a bridge setup, action setup, etc. He/she may be able to advise you if they have done any work on those basses or even advise you of any local basses for sale. It costs nothing to ask and you WILL need your luthier at some point.. . If you're new to double bass factor in for new strings, as already mentioned. Once you've got it and got going, it may, in time, be worth considering an adjustable bridge (you may need your luthier to fit that for you) so that you can figure out the string height you are most comfortable with, then you can have your original bridge set to the same height. Incidentally, your luthier may be able to supply basses and you might get a real good deal on a bass that comes with a good setup already done to it... just a thought! BTW, what part of the country are you in? Someone may be able to point you at their pet luthier
  11. invicta59
    This place is the cheapest I've found, but as yet I've never bought any from them, so can't comment on the service provided. [url="http://www.stringexpress.co.uk/dbass.htm"]http://www.stringexpress.co.uk/dbass.htm[/url]
  12. invicta59
    Offer him/her a drink.. you'll come over as a saint
  13. invicta59
    Just an "off-the-wall" thought, but have you thought about approaching the bass player at any local gigs and getting some hints and tips from them? I'm sure most would be happy to share some knowledge, and if they don't - well, you'd be no worse off, other than the cost of a night out
  14. invicta59
    I have no first hand experience of the books or DVD's, but there are others out there.. Didi Beck has a couple of things out... [url="http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=didi+beck"]http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=didi+beck[/url] Didi is a member of German band Boppin B but the book appears to be in both German and English if you do the "Look Inside" thing. I believe that the other item is not sheet music, but a DVD. I suspect that that will be German. Nicolas Dobouchet has a DVD out called Slapology, available in French and English, but I can't see a UK outlet for it, only via a US website. I think you would learn more from those than from the Lee Rocker video.
  15. invicta59
    [quote name='AndyBass' timestamp='1348837964' post='1818922'] Invicta59 - I've just seen that you're in The Slingshots! Sheffield legends. I think you know Chip (Mercurys, Radiacs, etc)? I used to be in a band with him, think I've seen you crop up on his Facebook. [/quote] Ummm.. legends may be pushing it a bit.. well.. quite a lot actually! Yes, I know Chip, he always comes to our Sheffield gigs. Decent fella... if you're on f/b feel free to add me if you wish (Dave Invicta), but don't expect much intellectual stuff from my posts anyway.. to business... [quote name='AndyBass' timestamp='1348837964' post='1818922'] Interested to know which luthier you go to, I only know one round Sheffield. [/quote] I took mine to Steep Hill Strings in Lincoln - [url="http://www.sutherlandviolin.com/"]http://www.sutherlandviolin.com/[/url] I've just had a new bridge fitted and some minor remedial work done. I'm really pleased with the outcome, and the cost was, unlike the hill the workshop is located on, not too steep! I don't have a vast amount of experience with luthiers to compare to, but I would be quite happy to put my recommendation on Andrew's services Maybe see you at a gig sometime!!
  16. invicta59
    [quote name='E sharp' timestamp='1348776468' post='1818153'] What was the reason that he gave? [/quote] Pretty much saying that, in classical music (and forgive my ignorance if it's incorrect, but I care not a jot for it, so don't know myself) there are no teaching methods for left handed playing, and that any left handed player of any instrument just has to learn to do it the "right" way. Apparently there is no such thing as a left handed violin either.... From my own experience, I'm a leftie, but I play rightie because when I was a nipper and my parents bought me a guitar they bought a conventional one... if I had complained I could be certain that I would have been given something to complain about - i.e. a clip around the ear from my dad, so I went with it for the sake of my health - it worked for me!
  17. invicta59
    I picked my bass up today, so, after sorting my bits out, asked about such a conversion and the look of horror/astonishment was a sight to behold. After a brief explanation of how most classical lefties learn to play rightie, I think the (inferred) final answer on cost was - Beyond economic reasonableness. On another note... What rockabilly/bluegrass bands do you play for?
  18. invicta59
    My bass is currently with a luthier and I'll be picking it up in a day or so.. I'll ask his estimate for you.
  19. invicta59
    DB's are pretty robust - theres plenty of videos on the tube showing them being stood/laid on or being generally thrown about. They can be picked up by the neck easily enough - just don't risk a detached fingerboard by picking it up by the fingerboard below the neck heel. I carry mine by leaning it, side on, towards my shoulder, reaching round and picking it up by the upper bout keeping the bridge to the "inside" to avoid any knocks from doors/tables/drunk punters while moving it any distance, whether in its bag or not. I wouldn't worry about the canvas bag.. padded bags are bulkier and need more room in the car/van/hallway and don't really offer any additional protection from falling objects (mic/pa speaker stands/etc). Hard cases are a real pain to carry/transport.. probably only worth it if you have an expensive bass. Plucking strength is hard to define.. so many variables to consider.. String type, string height, sound post position and plenty more. I'm not sure there is "a" special technique for playing upright, so much as a whole variety that can be used at any time. If you watch this video, you can see several different techniques being used. [url="http://youtu.be/iFTqVHEJZ0A"]http://youtu.be/iFTqVHEJZ0A[/url]
  20. invicta59
    [quote name='BassInMyFace' timestamp='1344377989' post='1763799'] ummmmmmmm i cant really describe how perfectly you have answered my question. thats exactly what im talking about! you sir get 10,000 awesome points. [/quote] Just out of curiosity, how did you get on with your search for a technique or flourish? Did you get to grips with Bob Haggart's masterpiece?
  21. invicta59
    What pick up do you have on? If it's a piezo type mounted in your bridge wing, like my K&K, it may not be snug enough. I use a clarinet reed as a shim to make sure that it is making contact properly and I don't really have any feedback problems. I played yesterday at an event with backline provided which was VERY loud and had no problems at all stood about 6' away from the cab. The worst I ever get is open strings ringing out if I don't damp them. I'd take a look at your pickup positioning/fit and experiment with that to start with - and free!
  22. invicta59
    2 tins of beans, a case of Budweiser, some mince, potatoes and carrots and... oh yes... a bow and some rosin please! [url="http://www.tesco.com/direct/sports-leisure/string-instruments/cat3375904.list?catId=4294960509+4294889185"]http://www.tesco.com...0509+4294889185[/url] Can't wait to see a double bass aisle in the Extra stores
  23. invicta59
    String height is such a personal thing that it's pointless saying "the perfect height for <insert your favourite brand here> strings is XXmm". Everyone has different length fingers, slightly different playing positions. etc. For me, I just rest my hand over each string so that the string lies inside the joint of my fingers and when my fingertips just touch the fingerboard, that's MY perfect string height.. and I've never measured it.. At that height though, I can grab a good fistful if necessary, but the strings are low enough to prevent accidentally knotting my fingers underneath... and that can really hurt! Don't know if this helps you, but it certainly helped me.. If you're playing something fast, keep your right hand as close as possible to the strings at all times.. Keep the movement in the wrist, not the shoulder or elbow. Playing fast is not easy if you've got your entire arm flailing about - it uses energy unnecessarily, and your muscles will stop loving you. As long as you know a major, minor and 7th scales, you should be on good footing to string some runs together - you can learn/discover others as you go. One good thing about the instrument though is that, if you learn the "patterns" that the scales can use, then those patterns are the same, regardless of key, so you don't have to know the name of every note in the scale every time you play it... just stay within the patterns.
  24. invicta59
    I see 4 strings and no eyepatch.... I presume this is a good sign? Hows the playing going?
  25. invicta59
    Antique valuable basses are not my area at all, but it seems to me that if you try and sell/trade it the faults that have been found would reduce it's value and someone else would do the work and make a profit. However, if you were to replace the "plastic" wood with real wood the bass would then, surely become less fragile and more usable - and probably last another hundred years! If I were in your position, I'd be tempted to get another bass for day to day use and keep your "antique" for the times you really need it.
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