Alien

4mm hex key points to an M5 thread, as most TR adjusters conform to the standard for a cap head screw.

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Next time you change your strings, leave the A a couple of inches longer than usual, and make sure it's wound down good and low on the tuner post. If that doesn't sort it, [i]then[/i] it's time to look at string trees.

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[quote name='sk8' post='934720' date='Aug 24 2010, 01:19 PM'][url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_ba5110c.htm"]Thomann[/url] Promethean anyone?[/quote]

Check out the heads: [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_ba250h.htm"]250W[/url] and [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_ba500h.htm"]500W[/url]

At that price, the 250W one deserves a look as a backup amp, surely?

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It's all about the power handling.

Jacks have a current capacity of around 5 Amps, which equates to 100W @ 4 Ohms, 200W @ 8 Ohms and 400W @ 16 Ohms. That was all well and good when the biggest amps were 200W Marshall Majors, but times have changed.

There was a trend in the late 70's / early 80's to use XLR connectors for high power speaker connections. Most 3-pin XLR's are rated around 15 Amps, which gives 900W @ 4 Ohms, 1800W @ 8 Ohms (we can ignore 16 Ohms from this point on, as it's only valve amps that output into 16 Ohms)

Speakons can handle currents of up to 30 Amps, in fact the new 4-pole versions are rated for 50. 30 Amps equates to 1800W @ 2 Ohms, 3600W @ 4 Ohms and a ridiculous 7200W @ 8 Ohms.

With modern bass amps commonly putting out upwards of 500W into 4 Ohms (and let's not even get into power amps, many of which can deliver over 2000W in bridge mode, why would you use a jack? In 1963 it was the best that was available, but since then the rest of your rig has moved on, so why not the speaker connectors?

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Spotted [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170522712547"]this[/url], and wondered if anyone knows anything about it.
Worth a punt maybe?

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[quote name='janmaat' post='916129' date='Aug 5 2010, 04:03 PM']Now I start wondering about short scale basses. My suspicion is that where the A on the long scale is at 110Hz, the short scale centers around 220Hz? does the short scale actually relate to the long scale like a cello to a double bass?[/quote]

The A on both long and short scale basses is 55 Hz, on a guitar it's 110 Hz.

A cello is tuned in 5ths, not 4ths, so it's C G D A instead of E A D G, but the D on a cello is the same as the D on a guitar.

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Can't believe I haven't posted on here yet! Right here goes...

My dad went to school with Olympic high dive medallist and trampoline star Brian Phelps, which was cool until he got done for 42 charges of indecent assault and indecency a couple of years back

My mum used to go out with Joe Brown back in the 50's or 60's. When I met Sam Brown for the first time, I told her 'if things had worked out different, I'd be your brother', and I still call her 'sis' whenever I see her, which is about once a year.

I once jammed with Bonnie Raitt at a trade show. Didn't know who it was, as the stand she was in backed on to the one I was in. We traded licks for 5 minutes or so, and then she came over and said hi. She was really sweet, and a lot smaller than you'd think.

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The big question is whether it was powered up when the water went on it, or if it's been powered up while wet.
With a few exceptions such as relays, electronic components don't actually have much of a problem being wet (hence water soluble flux).
If it's not been fired up wet, take it apart, let it dry out somewhere warm for a few days and give it a try.

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Elixirs all the way. The set on my Schecter are losing a bit of top now, but they've been on there well over a year and a half.

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[quote name='jonthebass' post='901636' date='Jul 22 2010, 09:30 AM']The Line6 website says they operate at 2.4 GHz which is license exempt so just be mindful that the 2.4GHz frequency range is also used by bluetooth devices, amongst a whole host of other devices, so there is a lot of potential for interference and problems with the equipment.[/quote]

There shouldn't be any interference from other devices, as the receiver can only pick up signals from the transmitter it's locked to.

You don't get Bluetooth interference in a room full of Bluetooth devices do you? Same principle applies.

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[quote name='andyonbass' post='915681' date='Aug 5 2010, 10:03 AM']I think over time, the pressure of the truss rod nut against the wood compresses it, requiring additional turns to achieve the same level of relief[/quote]

That's it, in a nutshell. Putting a couple of washers under a truss rod nut is a pretty common fix - I've done it myself on a few occasions.

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[quote name='OldGit' post='914650' date='Aug 4 2010, 10:06 AM']It will probably sound awful anyway so why not just get a little awful sounding portable amp for a lot less money?[/quote]

+1

There are a few guitars with built in speakers, and they all sound like a wasp in a jam jar.

To get anything that sounds even remotely like a bass you'd need a bigger box than it would be possible to fit into the body of a bass.

If you're interested, I've got one of [url="http://www.dolphinmusic.co.uk/product/16018-ibanez-ga1b-micro-bass-amp.html"]these[/url] that you could have for a tenner + postage. It makes your bass louder, and sounds a bit better than any of the micro guitar amps do.

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[quote name='geoffbyrne' post='912304' date='Aug 1 2010, 10:16 PM']ECC83=12AX7 - supposed to be 100% gain
ECC82=12AY7 - supposed to be 40% gain
[b]ECC81[/b]=12AU7 - supposed to be 19% gain[/quote]

Got that for ya

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Use a long extension lead and plug into another socket. They can't all be on the breaker circuit.

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[quote name='Beer of the Bass' post='911519' date='Jul 31 2010, 10:14 PM']If you're returning this to 4-string, is there any chance you've got the 8-string bridge for sale?[/quote]

And if, for any reason, Martin doesn't want it, I'd like second refusal

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A '62 Sunburst Precision, strung with flats, and a ludicrously high action.

End of discussion.

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[url="http://www.basscentre.com/bass-effects/ebs-micro-bass-ii.html"]EBS Microbass[/url]

Not cheap, but sounds like the very thing you're looking for.

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[quote name='tauzero' post='910427' date='Jul 30 2010, 04:54 PM'][url="http://www.cad-audio.com/cadpwmmodules.htm"]http://www.cad-audio.com/cadpwmmodules.htm[/url] ? Have a look towards the bottom, integrated amp + PSU. Will 40mm height just about fit into 1U?[/quote]

That seems to be ideal, especially as the 1kW module will also power the 250W amp. However, when I built the mini amp for Froilan, I was advised that a lot of people had had trouble with the company, so I'm a bit dubious unless they've got their act together.

[quote name='jakesbass' post='910720' date='Jul 30 2010, 09:35 PM']Check this out,
I've got one and it's ace...
[url="http://www.bkelec.com/Pro/Amplifiers/MXF1200D.htm"]http://www.bkelec.com/Pro/Amplifiers/MXF1200D.htm[/url][/quote]

I thought these had gone out of production. A little too deep for my rack too, unfortunately, but could still be worth a look.

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What about using DI instead?

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Just sold a speaker to Martin, no problems.

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And another for Martin. Just bought a set of organ pedals from him. Now I've just got to figure out what the hell to do with them

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How deep is your 4-way? (Oooh, came over all Beegees then! )

I've got one that's about 2mm deeper than the length of a standard 13A earth pin. The tip of the pin probably touches the back of the box. Maybe something like that would help?

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Someone got a bargain with that Kramer Ferrington. Lovely basses to play.

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[quote name='Mark Percy' post='904338' date='Jul 24 2010, 09:34 PM']buy the four pin speakons, as the two pin ones are incompatable with four pin ones, and are not interchangable, and cause trouble.[/quote]

And you're talking out of your hole [i]again[/i]. 2 pole Speakon plugs will mate with 2 or 4 pole sockets. Don't believe me? Let's see what the manufacturer says on their [url="http://www.neutrik.com/uk/en/audio/210_102911/NL2FC_detail.aspx"]website[/url]

Back under your bridge, little troll!

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[quote name='hughesy' post='903454' date='Jul 23 2010, 06:20 PM']Yamaha RBX are a lot of bass for the money, but, i've worked in the paint industry in the Labs for 25 years. I notice that the finish on the headstock is not the same as on the body. It looks like someones attempted a re-paint (looks like its been brushed instead of sprayed, probably with a synthetic paint,which would explain the fingermarks). Its still worth the money m8 but i'd respray it. like i said still worth the price though. good luck[/quote]

Don't think so, it's all original as far as I know. The gloss part of the headstock is actually a separate plastic part, which is why it looks different.

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