Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

Alien

Member
  • Posts

    965
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Alien

  1. I had the 700 Watt version (Firebass). It was built like a tank, never went wrong, never ran out of power (Peavey usually overspec their transformers). Didn't sound anything special, but you could get a decent range of sounds out of it with a bit of fiddling. It'll work fine in a rock band.

    A

  2. This would suit anyone looking for a backup bass, or somebody looking to try a 5-string for the first time

    Twin humbuckers, 2-band active setup with pan and volume controls. Alder body, Maple neck, Rosewood board. 34" Scale, 24 frets. Finished in black. Body and part of the headstock are gloss, neck and the rest of the headstock in matt.

    Nicely set up for the way I play, but it'll go lower if you need it to. The neck is fairly wide, and has a comfortable flat profile that makes it easy to play. Strung with roundwounds (can't remember what make) with a fair bit of life left in them. All told, in reasonably good condition except for a small chip on the upper body where the wood shows through.

    The only downside of this bass is that it seems to have been painted with the stuff forensics people use, because it picks up fingerprints like nobodys business :)

    [attachment=50329:PICT1017.JPG][attachment=50330:PICT1018.JPG][attachment=50331:PICT1019.JPG]
    [attachment=50332:PICT1020.JPG][attachment=50333:PICT1.JPG] Chip on the body

    I'll chuck in a gig bag too.

    I'm after £120 for this. I would prefer collection, but I can post (insured only) at cost if need be.

    Cheers

    Andy

  3. I've had this a while now, and realised the other day that 90% of the time I only use the tuner function.

    Anyhow, seeing as I'm trying to rationalise my gear, it's time to let someone else have a play with it.

    Specs can be found [url="http://www.zoom.co.jp/english/products/b21u/index.php"]here[/url].

    I'm including a power supply (not the original Zoom one, but works fine). I don't have a copy of the manual, but you can download it from the Zoom website [url="http://www.zoom.co.jp/archive/English_Manual/E_B21u.pdf"]here[/url].

    [attachment=50328:PICT1025.JPG] The obligatory photo, as you can see it's in pretty good nick.

    As the title says, £65 gets it delivered to your door, or I'll knock off a fiver if you're local and want to collect.

    Cheers

    Andy

  4. Thanks for all the help guys. Didn't think of ABM, and couldn't for the life of me find them on the Allparts site.


    [quote name='BigRedX' post='838173' date='May 15 2010, 02:53 PM']BTW is there any sonic advantage to not using the traditional screw and spring method for setting the intonation, as I've noticed that a lot of what could be considered "high end" bridge mechanisms use the manual method which to me seems too complicated and potentially not accurate enough.[/quote]

    Tuning a headless involves pulling the string against the pull of a standard bridge. If the string bound up on the bridge saddle it'd move back and bang goes your intonation.

    A

  5. I'm trying to find some Steinberger-style tuning bridges, but in a monorail format. I know they exist but I'll be damned if I can find them anywhere.

    I've tried all the usual suspects, Allparts, StewMac etc. as well as makers websites, Schaller, Wilkinson, Gotoh and the like, but no joy.

    Anyone got any idea who makes these? Pat on the back and a nice warm fuzzy feeling of having helped a fellow Basschatter to the first person that comes up with something.

    A

  6. [quote name='bob_pickard' post='837116' date='May 14 2010, 01:18 PM']grabbing the drummer's cymbal just before he hits it to mute it :rolleyes: and twiddling the guitarist's tuning peg when he's busy soloing - how we laugh...[/quote]

    Can't do either of those - my drummer hits'em so hard it wouldn't make any difference, and the guitarist uses a Floyd Rose locking trem. No fun to be had at all really :)

    Mind you, I'm usually too busy trying to remember lyrics, play and sing at the same time etc. to have much time to pull tricks!

    A

  7. [quote name='Gadge' post='835630' date='May 12 2010, 08:11 PM']Alex, I'd like to try the Midget T with my Compact, please — when it comes to Milton Keynes area.

    Liking the website updates ... :)[/quote]

    I didn't realise there was a Compact owner in MK. Any chance I could have a play through it?

    A

  8. [quote name='CraigPlaysBass' post='834646' date='May 11 2010, 08:13 PM']Cheers :lol:

    I will try that :)

    Cabs should be ok, 600 watts rms :rolleyes:[/quote]

    What you have to remember is that the 600 Watts is the thermal rating. The cab may only be able to handle 100W at low frequencies.

    A

  9. Look for an amp that puts out between 200 and 1000 Watts into 4 Ohms. I know that looks like a huge jump from 200 to 1000, but believe me, it won't make much difference in the real world. You'll get about 90% of that into a 6 Ohm load, and your amp will run cooler.

    Other than that, look for an amp that's got the features you want.

    A

  10. [quote name='CraigPlaysBass' post='833704' date='May 10 2010, 10:05 PM']Hmm, this got me thinking. I have a variable mid control on my marshall mb450h... from 100hz to 1khz, and i just dont know where to put it to get that sound that cuts through, boost or cut :/[/quote]

    Try setting the bass control to about -3dB, set the mid frequency at 100-150Hz with a boost of 3dB, and adjust the treble to suit your own taste. That should give you a good 'cut through' tone, but that still sounds meaty. It'll also go easier on your cabs too, as you're less likely to push the cones into over excursion.

    A

×
×
  • Create New...