PaulKing

I played in Frome a couple of years ago, at the festival. For some festivally reason the audience was full of people dressed in strange outfits like Star Wars storm troopers and stuff. Anyway, I had a bit of stage banter about the trip to Frome being a bit of a pilgrimmage for me, as one of the main reasons I took up double bass was because of a bassist from Frome who played in an 80s psychobilly band called Frenzy. (Yeah, and the Sharks, I know...). 'Anyone heard of Steve Whitehouse?' I asked the audience, to a ripple of applause from a few people in the know. Then one of the storm troopers in the front row took his helmet off ... and there was Mr Whitehouse beaming away at me. 'Shit, there he is!' I said. It was a cool moment. I had a great chat with him afterwards. Very friendly chap. Slap bass legend.

I wish I could find the picture I'm looking for. Instead I'll have to use my words: The punk rock solution to this is easy. How often do you play up in thump position eh? Really...? So just cut that pesky fingerboard off. As a bonus, it would help cut out that annoying clacking noise you get when the strings hit the fingerboard. Anyway, no chance its the neck itself that's curved, unless that bass is a piece of shit. The fingerboard is a replaceable accessory like the bridge. Bit of hide glue to steam and off it pops. Sounds like you might have a duff one. A new one is the only real answer, and perfectly achievable for a couple hundred quid by a decent luthier. I wouldn't attempt it myself though. Remember a new board will alter the tone slightly too, depending what wood you can afford. I don't think steam-bending the finger board back to shape would be an option ... too dense. But I might be wrong. A shave might be worth trying first. If it makes it playable for a couple more years it'd be worth it. But if you end up taking too much off the end it might get a bit thin - though that'd only really affect the slap sound I guess. Miniscule effect on overall tone.

Mine have all been on for similar periods I guess, not showing any signs of needing to change yet. I'd expect to get a few more years from them yet.

It's really pretty easy to make f-hole covers. I made sets for all my basses years ago, before F-its existed. I copied the design by 'Dougs Plugs' in USA (why are all these products apparently named by Finbar Saunders??) You need 2 thicknesses of hi-density foam. A thick piece for the plug (20-30mm) and a thin piece (3-5 mm) for the top (which stops it falling into the f-hole). As previously described, you just do a pencil rubbing of your f-hole (only 1 needed as they're exact mirror images). Cut it out, and draw round it onto the thick foam. Cut out with a modelling knife. Safest to be fairly loose with the cutting so the piece is a fraction oversized, then you can trim (or file) until it fits. Then do same with the thin piece of foam, but cut 3 or 4 mm bigger all round. stick that piece onto the outer surface of the plug using appropriate glue. Done. I swear by these things. Used every gig for more years than I can remember. Feedback is practically a thing of the past. I play pretty loud ... Markbass 500W into 2 12" cabs, wound up pretty hot, standing right in front. I often go wireless-walkabouts in front of festival PAs too. Not a peep of feedback.

I guess I could be labelled as a slapper, certainly in my rockabilly past. There was some definite rat-a-tat going on then. I use it very sparingly now, because in anything other than trad rockabilly it can sound pretty unpleasant, I agree. But I use the same playing technique to keep up that percussive, bouncing energy throughout all my pizz playing. It completely changes the energy and definition of the bass line when I switch from classic finger pizz to whole-arm pizz. Its a much more physical, defined sound that punches through the mix like a bass guitar ... yet is so far removed from bass guitar. As for the clicks and slaps, they become like ghost notes. I agree with Jack and co, you don't want to be clacking away constantly like a pile-driver when you've got a drummer, unless you're playing psychobilly. The EQ is crucial too, you want to tame the harsh clack (or plastic boing depending on your strings) so that you get a lovely organic woody/gut-like clunk that just gives the note presence and rhythmic attack, rather than sounding like metal plates banging together. Then those ghost notes and the percussion blend in with the bass tone, and supplement the drums rather than clashing. None of this helps the OP much ... to develop the style I'd encourage you to get your thumb off the finger board. Its not the only technique, as the more restrained video above illustrates ... but its worth cracking it. Free up your arm, think of your whole forearm producing each note, with the return of your hand landing back on the strings giving your line that fluid, swinging, bouncing percussion, avoiding robotic mechanical clatter. Done right its tasteful, appropriate, driving, percussive, but not metallic.

Aesthetically I just don’t get it, ugly frankenstein contraptions that are completely at odds with the gorgeous organic curves of the bass. All the deuce guys swear blind the tone is improved but I take that with a pinch of salt. So many variables could cause that. Adjustable pick up pressure… yep I get the appeal. But there other ways of achieving on a conventional bridge. Stability… i’m sure it is more stable than a conventional bridge, but unless your bridge is badly fitted and you have the lowest of low tension strings, there is no way it is gonna fall over. If you have that problem, try getting the bridge fitted properly before throwing it away. A dog is more stable than a person, but that don’t mean i’m rushing out to get an extra pair of metal legs fitted.

Thats perfect...

Go on, in what way? I'm still digging the slaps ... just dressed my latest bass with a set EAD gut G

I think I've got an old Oliv e in my string box. Always think i might give it a try but never do.. Offer / trade? I bought it lightly used years ago, had it on for a day at the most.

Jeeez. Proper. Beautiful playing, big pillowy tone, nicely mixed ... cuts through but still soft and lovely. That's just ace. Whole band ... what a treat..

Thats the way! ... check dougsplugs.com... made mine years ago never had feedback ever again and i play pretty louid, standing right nest to amp. That and a decent use of eq Also Underwood / Shadow 951, Bassmax, all less feedback-prone than a Realist (thats a boom machine) or Full Circle.

Cheers everyone ... its nice not to be the one standing quietly at the back now and then. Yes my hat does occasionally fall off, though surprisingly rarely ;o)

Well I say yes it jolly well is. Stick to the end if you can bear the bum notes. Audiences flippin' love it...

Welcome, and congratulations on getting yourself a damn fine bass. B+H Excelsiors were imported by B&H from the Czech Luby factory in the 60s (same factory/company that now makes Strunal basses). They are very well made student instruments, built to last. They have a really nice buttery tone, lacking a bit of mid range maybe, but very tolerant of a wide range of strings. Well that's my experience with mine. I have the exact same bass. Strings strings strings pick ups pick ups pick ups... .its all been said! I recommend Evah Pirazzi strings as fabulous all-rounders, good for rootsy pizz but also very good for jazz, with plenty of definition. You can also slap them if you're that way inclined. But the go-to string for all beginners (and the majority of established players) is Thomastik Spriocore weich/light. Jazz standards. Innovation Supersilver (or Silverslap if you want easier tension) are also damn good strings and so easy to play for a beginner. Can't go worng ... although as your ear tunes in you'll start to detect some odd plasticky sounds on the open srings especially. But noone else will notice. Shadow 951 or Underwood piezo pick up will work for you - but they're both well north of £100 these days. Or a K+ Bassmax, or one of the many decent budget copies you can get on ebay. I've not tried them but many people swear. In the end they are all bascally the same little bit of kit. Fitting them is the key. Take care and they sound great. Next, don't expect to just plug into your old bass guitar amp and hear a beautiful double bass sound come out. That's for the next lesson... ;0)

Ha, I was kinda joking, although what I say is true. Its certainly not a fix old Chuck Trager would recommend ... but yeh that's how my peg box is held on. It's an ugly fix, but who cares. It works. A luthier would do something similar, just neater. That website Andy linked to seems to show the way...

I'd say you're in luck ... even cheap weed-whacker synthetics give a reasonable idea of gut tone and feel on the G, and on the D to a lesser degree. They'll miss the subtle overtones and harmonics you might be hoping for if you're really soloing and jazzing, but for basic thumpy roots music they'll give you an idea. And if you're amplified, you'll barely know the difference. SBW and similar will be better approximations. Cheapish Lenzner will feel and sound better if you're really listening - but will still sound closer to SBW than to Evah Weichs.

Drill right through the fingerboard and drive a couple big ole screws in, then bodge some wood filler in and colour it in with sharpie. That's what someone did to my lovely King Mortone. Held good for decades and never held me back It's known as the Traeger method ;o)

Ooh gadget envy. Blimmin eck. I just picked up an old Underwood online. When you've had enough of that one Jack ... it's mine right?

If you have the patience, good sturdy old student basses still come up on ebay/gumtree surprisingly often. Every month or so. 1950s-60s-70s European. Czech, German, Hungarian. My personal taste I know, but an older bass is always nicer to play ... worn in, mellowed out, hard edges softened (acoustically as well as physically) ... proven longevity plus a bit of gig Mojo. If you're lucky you'll get a brand name - Boosey and Hawkes imported good basses from Czech Republic and Hungary. More often than not you won't see a label ... but the basses are often recognisable to those who are familar with them. You can get one for between £400-£1k. Otherwise Strunal (in Luby, Czech Rep) make great new basses. They used to supply Boosey & Hawkes back in communist era. But yeah, Brexit. That was a good idea. Post ebay links here, people will chime in. PM me if you want a quick opinion.

Look for a 'Chubby Jackson' Kay. You can pick up them now again from second hand sales / junk shops for pretty decent price. ;o)

Like, totally. On a boomy fingerboard I sometimes used to fix the slap pickup onto the underside of the heel. Those high frequencies that you want carry through to the whole neck and heel. It could also be a sign you're working a bit hard slapping strings that are bit high tension, or a high action, so you're thumping the board with your whole arm strength, rather than just getting the tight percussion of your hand and string hitting it. Possibly.'

PS Feedback? Nah. F-hole plugs.

Hey good news overall! That line really puzzles me though ... I can't say I've noticed them being weak and floppy and quiet at all. I wonder if that is when they are under-tensioned? Which explains why they settled in and bloomed once you cranked them up. I routinely give new strings some pretty serious stretching to bring up to tension, as very few strings open up until they've been stretched. Until then, too much energy gets absorbed in stretching the string every time you pluck it I guess. I give them a good old yank and circle them round until theystop dropping pitch. Cant be arsed with all this leaving them for a few days!! Another thought, Silver Slaps are so darn easy to play, I wonder if you're noticing the need to dig in a little more on these? Could be. All very interesting anyway. Will be interested to see how you get on over time.