david_l_perry

Yep...I have the very same extensive PA renovation equipment in my toolbox..... ^_^

I have done lots of cabs with the Aldcrofts Paint and baby each and every one of them beyond words....I only have a tiny Wedgehorn done in the Aldcrofts now, its not so much impact damage, just that it rubs easily and scrapes against other things in the van / car. I would give the carpet another go following the tutorial. If you want to try and sell them they need to look Pro. Paint looks great for while but then starts to look worn very quickly. Just an amp moved about ontop of the cab will start to mark it very quickly. Its nothing like as good as the sprayed on stuff used by the pro cab manufacturers. It also does not take to car body filler well (bondo), I called in to see Julie at Aldcrofts who suggested to me to try coating the filler with some PVA first. I have not tried it yet, but it could be worth while trying that out. Dave

[quote name='andyonbass' post='222884' date='Jun 20 2008, 01:18 PM']Would [url="http://www.icixsound.com/iv/view_video.php?viewkey=5a2e075a1a4a6e1b9770"]THIS[/url] be the one?[/quote] Thats it...!! Cheers fella And I [b]HATE[/b] wallpapering.....I am seriously crap at it.....bubbles here, and Here, and here, and some there....After watching that video the carpeting was made very simple... The tuffcab/Aldcroft speaker paint does not hold up too well to life on the road, but it is very simple to get a good finish straight off. Dave

Well done Alex, looks pretty compact. On the next one try and get the carpet joins so that you only have a single one on the btm of the box running front to back. When making a cut, If you overlap the carpet and then cut through both layers, you can peal off both bits and are left with a perfect join. To remove excess bits of spray adhesive, use some WD40 on a rag and wipe over the carpet. If you make the carpet wide enough you can go round the whole box in one go, wrap the excess over the back panel. I am trying to find a fantastic video tutorial that showed exactly how its done, its very easy when you see it, but a little hard to describe..It opened my eyes to how its done.... Dave

Forgot about this stuff. Its what I used on my last set of Titans / Omni's Its cheaper than screwfix and performs better:- [url="http://www.tool-net.co.uk/p-324986/everbuild-lumberjack-5-minute-wood-adhesive-gel-310ml.html"]lumberjack adhesive £3.20/tube[/url]

[quote name='jamesf' post='217136' date='Jun 11 2008, 07:41 PM']I got my PU adhesive from B&Q - it came in a caulking-gun cartridge, and one tube did an omni 10 and two omni 10.5's. It's called Evostik Resin - Polyurethane Wood Adhesive and is phenomenal stuff which expands in the gaps, and dries fully in 24 hours. I spent several days sand-papering it off my hands after the first session with it, it's seriously good stuff!! only about £9 as well.[/quote] The stuff from screwfix cost £5.95 [url="http://www.screwfix.com/prods/30590/Sealants-Adhesives/Adhesives/Wood-Glues/Polyurethane-Adhesive/Joiners-Mate-Adhesive-310ml"]screwfix adhesive[/url]

[quote name='alexclaber' post='216455' date='Jun 10 2008, 09:55 PM']Currently in the process of getting a one-off 15" cab completed and also working on perfecting the crossover on the 15"+6.5". I can now say with certainty why most cabs don't take this woofer+mid with true crossover approach - it is a nightmare to get it working without a crazy amount of components - current count stands at eleven and that's assuming I can get caps, resistors and coils in the exact values I want! Alex[/quote] Have you tried out the cab using an active crossover/bi amped to see how it sounds first, or are you just making the leap of faith.... Dave PS ste_m3, did you get my pm about the omni, you never replied if you did....

[quote name='bremen' post='213692' date='Jun 6 2008, 10:20 AM']cheers for that clarification. Is there any way to be sure that the unbranded CPC units I get are the same as yours, ie any distinguishing markings?[/quote] Indeed. The typical SKytronic ones and the ones I see on ebay a lot of have a ribbed outer line (for her pleasure...) around the horn Here is the skytonic one:- These are crap.....and should be burnt on site. To be fair they do work, just not as good as the CPC ones. The CPC ones are just flat fronted. I always get mine form CPC and they have never varied at all. I will be getting some next week to make some melded arrays up for a guy on Bills forum and will post if they are any different than usual. CPC piezo's:- Dave

[quote name='thedonutman' post='213513' date='Jun 5 2008, 10:10 PM'](Unintended thread hijack) I've seen a lot of Omni 10 builds around here lately. Do you just buy the plans from BFM and source all of the speakers, plywood, tolex etc yourself and build it according to his dimensions? How hard is it for someone with basic woodworking skills? It says "Construction Degree of Difficulty: 3" on his site, but I guess that doesn't really mean anything if you don't have anything to compare it to.[/quote] I have built lots of Bills plans and used them for PA/Bass backline and they work very well. You buy the plans from Bills site (order and pay him via paypal) Bills instructions are fantastic, and are certainly not just a set of dimensioned plans. The omni 10 plans for example are about 34pages long, with complete photos of each and every step of construction as well as alternate model variations (omni10.5, omni 10 wide body crossfired piezo's). They walk you through each and every step of the plans bit by bit. Worth every penny. You source all of the parts yourself, but none of them are hard to obtain. In fact the whole theory behind Bills plans is to utilise standard inexpensive components in a well designed cab, to get the most out of them. The only thing that was initially hard to source was the 'PL glue', but screwfix has it and other sources too (check Bills forum 'hints and tips section' for uk sources of parts) I would say to build the Omni you need very basic skills. As long as you can use a jigsaw, and drill, you should be good to go. A Circular saw is a very worth while investment, but even a cheap one will make a difference (replace the standard rough blade with ones with more teeth for better cuts) Omni 10 'wide body' :- Omni 10 'wide body' next to a typical 2x10 (old peavey 210TX) My Flock of DR280's Titan 48's DR280 bass stack My latest Omni 15 Bass cab And just to confirm the post responses again, CPC is the best source as listed. I did a considerable amount of testing of different sources of Piezos, and found not all cheap piezo's are the same (as was originally thought on Bills site)....The CPC unbranded came out on top of the cheap batches, and I would not suggest using anything else. WLE/Skytronic piezos are utter crap. 8 CPC piezos outstripped 12WLE piezos not just in SPL but [i]massively [/i]in freq response. Dave

[quote name='alexclaber' post='212619' date='Jun 4 2008, 05:09 PM']So many rectangles of plywood! Now to work out which are which and start drilling pilot holes... Alex[/quote] So Alex, have you changed the cab design or just the crossover ? Dave

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='210878' date='Jun 2 2008, 12:21 AM']A custom body shape?! [/quote] You can see here the body shape. The only change to the standard Harlot is towards the rear, and that is to allow for the headless assembly. You can just about make out the line of the original below that has been rubbed out. Dave

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='211614' date='Jun 3 2008, 10:24 AM']Are you sure about that spacing? [/quote] Yes indeed..... The older status basses with the solid brass bridge are set at 15mm spacing (not adjustable). I have an older 2000V string fretless as well as my custom empathy. When I had my Status custom built I wanted the older bridge assembly so that I kept the same narrow spacing. Rob was happy to do that when I had my status built 9 years ago as he still had the older units in stock. The newer individual ABM units are set at 16.5mm minimum. Here is a link to the old 2000 that has the bridge dims on it, but rest assured it has been measured more than once.... [url="http://statii.com/status_cats/flyers/series_2000/s2000_2_large.jpg"]Original Status 2000 spec[/url] I am so comfortable on this bass that I didn't want to go for a wider spacing, so Alan is getting ETS to make me one at 15mm spacing, and using the standard 5 string status nut to keep the spacing the same at the top end as well. Neck profile will of course be Alans design Dave

Just spotted this, Cheers Peter..! Had a trip up to Alan's to sort out the spec and leave a deposit for a lovely new ACG for me.....took me long while to finally decide to change from a graphite status neck, but playing several of Alan's Basses over the last few months (First at the NW bass meet up and then at the finnbass fumble) convinced me....Thanks the Alpha Dave as well for some helpful input prior to this.... We spent a fair bit of time mulling over the body shape as making it headless brings up lots of issues. Most of this was sorted out by emails but the final body shape tweeking was done by Alan's lovely wife (who clearly has a lot of input into these things behind the scenes...) The body shape is the Harlot, but needs tweaking to allow for the headless bridge assembly. Here is the spec I have gone for :- [b][u]Dave Perry's Headless Harlot spec[/u][/b] 5 String Headless 34” scale for standard double ball end strings Black Hardware ACG 01 pre-amp twin filter stack 18 volt version Standard Jack socket (I didn’t want the locking Neutrik unit) Mother of pearl side dot markers only ETS-MK III Headless, rounded, 5-string Bass bridge (15mm spacing as my status) [url="http://www.ets-hardware.com/headless.php?pic=1"]ETS Headless bass bridge[/url] Bridge angled back into the body Zero Fret Black Status Nut for standard and Double ball end strings Twin soap bar pickups (thin body neck pickup just for the quirky looks of it all) Full through neck construction visible front and back with side wings like this sei:- Neck constructed as Bubinga / flamed Maple 7 piece laminate with carbon fiber rods and dual actions truss rod. Side wings to have front and rear exotic facings (Camphor Burl) over a light coloured Flamed Sycamore body core with black veneer contrast line. I was [i]certain [/i]I was going with Amboyna Burl facings right up until Alan showed me some Camphor Burl that was just in the process of being sprayed up….lovely. The Camphor burl is like this:- But mine will have the lighter woods of the through neck visible front and back as a contrast Book matched Acrylic Impregnated Fingerboards: Here is shot of the bookmatched fingerboard I decided upon....stolen idea form the 9 string he is working on....a small area has been sprayed with white spirit to show up the grain as it should look once finished... Alan spent a lot of time measuring my Status so that I would be getting something with a familiar feel, as my status has been my Single main bass for the last 10years...I am a one bass kind of guy.....I will never sell the status as it was also a one off custom job... [i]I cant thank Alan enough[/i] for the amount of time he is willing to spend going through options. Top man Clearly its a fair wait (roughly 8 months) to get the thing completed but thats just part of the process of a custom build... Dave

Just thought I would add a few comments on how I am finding things with Nick so far. Just to fill you in on a little about me....I have been actively playing bass for the last 18 years and class myself as a fairly competent player, but I have never been able to focus myself into reading. I contacted Nick and have been 'going back to school' for the last couple of months to try and get myself into this part of the playing... From the 1st lesson I was upfront about being concerned that I would get bored trying to read something that I know I could play by ear in my sleep....Nick has a very open minded lesson structure to give you whatever you want out of the lesson. For me, as well as the formal part of the reading (which I am actually really enjoying contrary to what I thought I would)...we spend the last 10-15minutes working on some funky more advanced playing styles to get the fingers and ears better trained. Its very refreshing for me, the more you think you know the more you realise you know nothing......old dog new tricks and all that...... Dave

[quote name='alexclaber' post='204474' date='May 22 2008, 06:19 PM']Well I've just ordered a pile of grills for these cabs, five for the compact 15" and four for the big 15"+6.5", so I'm committed to making at least nine of them! Alex[/quote] And so the obsession begins..... I have[i] just about [/i]managed to stop building cabs...still going to rehab once a week to talk over my problems Just got a pair of nice transmission line HiFi cabs on the cards next, but not for a while yet.... I assume you have got the 15" & 6.5" cab in a state that you are happy with the sound now ? Dave

[quote name='Huggy and the Bears' post='198044' date='May 13 2008, 03:26 PM']I've ended up with an Aguilar GS212 cab with a Mark Bass LMK head. ................ I'd recommend the set-up to all and I can't imagine you would be disappointed. Hope this adds to the mix of ideas! Simon.[/quote] I have tried this settup (actually 2 GS112 cabs) with the LMK and it is an awesome combination. Probably the better of the lighter 1x12 cabs that I have tried.... Dave