tauzero

I suspect that pushing the T-nut out slightly would almost certainly make it skew, meaning it would be more likely to cross-thread. Must remember to be gentle.

What about having it powder coated?

I was just about to mention my NS WAV-4 - dots everywhere, I find it very confusing.

Looking around the room, I can see 14 basses in natural finish (well, a couple are lacquered over natural finish), a black Ashbory and a sunburst Kala U-bass. So I think that's a vote for natural.

Briefly furious, then.

You could try asking a few amateur porn producers how they manage, as they face a similar challenge.

My Fender Precision fretless was like that. Pain in the bum. I learnt on unlined fretlessesses but my current main bass is lined. I'd rather it was unlined, especially as the lines are very very slightly raised. Only a hair's breadth, but perceptible.

Incidentally, Trace Elliot watts may be louder but they sound nastier too.

"Something which may have been overlooked is that the more speaker surface area, the louder also. A 410 vs 115 using the same amp and ohms, the 410 will be far louder." A bit ambiguous as to whether it's the just surface area or the surface area and dozens of other variables, but it does rather imply to me that the surface area is the principal reason for the difference.

And "coming home". I've had two Fender Ps, one fretted, one fretless. I now own zero Fender (or any other) Ps, and have every intention of keeping it that way.

Presumably for the grill. I wondered about it too.

Sorry about the lateness of this but I'm finally getting round to reading this thread as it's time I started trying to get some sort of sound out of my Megatar. One of these might be useful for lifting strings on/off the bridge: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T-Handle-Style-Exhaust-Stand-Spring-Hook-Puller-Tool-Motorcycle-Kart-Bike-RMN0/202757549712 They work well for stand and exhaust springs on bikes.

I have a chorus permanently on (part of my permanent chain in a Zoom MS-60B).

I think it's also a bit better - uses the next iteration of the DSP. Also allows longer effects chains, so you can have a HPF and compressor at one end and an amp sim at the other, and three switchable effects in the middle. Also easier to switch between patches. It does lose the DI and the battery power, and you need to use a third party patch editor (ToneLib). I've also got an HD500 which I got ridiculously cheaply but I have yet to experiment properly with that. Powerful but enormous.

I think it's one of those things that's easier to remember in English as all the words start with "R".

It may help if you consider MIDI keyboards as a combination of a MIDI controller keyboard and a MIDI sound module in one case. The MIDI out you have going off to the computer is simply a stream of instructions saying what note to play and how loud. It's also heading off to the sound module bit of your keyboard to tell it to play those notes. You can also send a stream of MIDI messages from something else - a sequencer, another keyboard, a guitar/bass-to-MIDI converter - to the MIDI in, and the sound module will play those notes.

There's always the Zoom B3n.

Two things for me. The Tascam GB-10 - small but not cheap at £150 or so from Thomann. And the Kinsman KGS stool, less expensive but larger at £30-£35 (a bit less for the Harley Benton version from Thomann) which enables me to do 45 minute sets without collapsing in agony. I will also mention Eneloops, as I use them in a few things and I like to feel I'm doing something to save the planet as I drive to the next gig and plug in my 900W amp...

Would you like to discuss pickup replacement too? 😁 You could always address both problems simultaneously by cutting the entire headstock off and converting it to a headless bass. That means losing the weight of the headstock and tuners, and cutting a part of the body away, and replacing the bridge with a tuner assembly which will be only slightly heavier. Plus it'll look prettier and balance better. You know it makes sense.

Ring = red = right.

I'd be inclined just to use the 80mm and 24V bits and disregard the power and current, as they're not consistent - just get something that takes under .2A or so.

I've ordered the primer from Euro Car Parts for delivery as it's not in store locally - no problem. Also, if you order in the next couple of days, there's a discount code that lets you buy it for £2. Check the banner at the top of the web page, it's currently BANK70 but not sure if it'll change tomorrow or Monday.

I've used a Korg Volca Bass Analog with a Roland PK5. Worked fine and can do a rough impression of a Minotaur. Can also be run off a Mcmillen 12-step with the MIDI expander, although only monophonically. I've just ordered a Midiplus Miniengine to try some other stuff as I no longer need the Minitaur emulation but fancy some polyphonics. One thing - the 12step has a limitation on control change messages so (IIRC) it'll only send one byte messages, not two-byte ones. This means I can't issue program change messages to a Roland XV-2020 and would have to mess with the controls to change the patch, hence trying the Midiplus instead.

Plectrums are better at opening up phones though. Picks are good for destroying them

Classical guitarists are taught (if right-handed) to rest the guitar on the left leg. And with the left foot on a little stool. I always rest a guitar on my right leg, whatever it is and whatever style I'm playing. I play seated a lot of the time due to a dodgy back. Generally (right-hander) I put it on the right leg, sometimes on the left leg. Just depends on what feels comfortable at that moment. I'll switch legs mid-song if I feel like it. Is this going to become a religious thing, like fingers or plectrum?