TRBboy

[quote name='Kongo' timestamp='1340900050' post='1711307'] Keep em as spares. I used Roto's for a bit but quickly came back. That tone your enjoying won't last, that's if one doesn't snap whilst tuning. That's my experience with em anyway. Aching hands though? Careful dude. If things get too tough during a song and it's just rehearsal, back off and shake off when you can. RSI / Carpel Tunnel LOVES to jump you at those moments. Few years ago I was minding my own business when all of a sudden...BOOM my hand stopped working and pain shot all over...RSI from nowhere. 2 months healing and THEN getting them back to strength after. [/quote] I'll have to see how the Rotos wear, I haven't used them for donkeys years but I seem to remember them dulling quickly. I don't see why any stainless steel string shouldn't last for ages! I just wish D'addario did the same gauge in the Prosteels, but maybe I'll just have to give the set with the 75 and 95 a go after all. I don't usually have a problem with aching hands really, and I'm always concious of my technique and hand position and well aware of carpel tunnel, etc. It's just sometimes, depending on what I'm playing and for how long, I might get a little discomfort. For instance, last week in the studio, one track we recorded has a pretty busy walking bassline where my left hand is at full stretch for almost the entire song. 3 takes and those heavier gauge D'addarios meant that my hand was starting to hurt a bit!

Well, my new strings arrived today; Rotosound SM665 .040", .060", .0.80", .100", .125". I usually always buy D'addario Prosteels, but I didn't fancy the .075" and .095" A and E strings. I quickly whacked them on in 5 minutes before band practice tonight, and wow! what a difference! Of course they're a different brand so it's hard to make a direct comparison, but they felt much easier under both hands but especially my left hand. I could play with a much lighter touch and didn't get any aching in my left hand, which I sometimes get after a 3 hour rehearsal. There didn't really seem to be any flappiness or buzzing, which I was expecting a little of, and the low B was much better IMO because it had much more definition and presence. I was impressed that there didn't They sounded spot on to me too, less of a big bottom end boom, and much more of a punchy, growly midrange. My bass certainly seemed to sit better in the mix tonight, and cut through amazingly without overpowering everything else. Amazing what difference a set of strings can make! I just wish I'd had them on last week when we recorded, instead of the heavier gauge D'addarios. I can see myself going back in to re-do the bass parts....... I'm sold! Dunno what to do with the D'addarios though? They only did a 2 hour studio session last week, but obviously I cut them to fit my bass (3+2 headstock), so I can't really sell them......

[quote name='Rowley Birkin QC' timestamp='1340626562' post='1707165'] Just acquired my California JM4 from a fellow BC'er........love it! Sounds great through the TC rig too. [attachment=111424:Sandberg.jpg] [/quote] Congrats dude, another convert! feels good don't it........ Was it from Mikeh by any chance?

[quote name='bassfunk' timestamp='1340735662' post='1708956'] Hi, we use a Q3 to record rehearsals and gigs. It's easy to use and you could get a small tripod to hold it steady. To give you an idea these videos were recorded with it: [media]http://youtu.be/jrKSa1ntSBA[/media] [media]http://youtu.be/WFJNAY_YWoI[/media] So I think it would do the job nicely. The other option is an interface and webcam, you'd then have to sync the audio and video. [/quote] It seems to do the job pretty well! I'm surprised how well it copes with being right up close to the PA speakers!

As it says above really! Pretty much the last time I did any home recording was about 15 years ago with a Tascam cassette 4-track! I'd like to be able to post vids on YouTube, but I don't really know what's the best way to go about it to get decent sound quality, without spending much money. And it needs to be pretty straight forward! Would I be best to use some sort of interface and a webcam, or should I just get something like a zoom Q3? I guess I could use the latter for recording my band too... I've got an older version of Cubase on my laptop which I've never used, and a digital camera that does video, a flip camcorder and a zoom H2. If it's possible to use any combination of these things to get the desired effect then great!

I asked New Moon LOTS of questions when I took out my policy. The "theft from an unattended vehicle" thing is like on your normal car insurance really: if you've left something valuable in plain sight, they wouldn't pay out. However, New Moon advised me that as long as I'd taken all reasonable steps to conceal the gear, and it wasn't blatantly obvious what it was, they would pay out. The example we used was that if you had a bass on the back seat with some sort of cover/blanket/sheet over it, they would pay out. I also quizzed them about the usually grey area of theft whilst loading/unloading. I said what happens if I'm loading the car after a gig, take something out to the car and when I walk back into the venue my bass has gone. They said they would pay out, and process it as a straight forward theft. AFAIK New Moon have been set up and underwritten by Hiscox specifically to be a specialist Musical Instrument insurer, and I think they're trying to out-do most of the competition and try to establish themselves as the best. Most other companies who do MI insurance do everything else too, and I think that New Moon are very customer focused and are able to concentrate 100% on meeting the needs of musicians.

Very, very nice! Beautiful birdseye maple there!

[quote name='bluejay' timestamp='1340652413' post='1707671'] +1 to the above. Fingerboards seem to dry out more quickly in bright light, at least in my living room, which is sunny, British weather permitting, and relatively warm (but the basses are in a slightly cooler corner, protected by a curtain). My basses have rosewood and ebony fingerboards; I haven't had the opportunity to work on the ebony yet, but I've cleaned the rosewood ones with Fast Fret - it does say on the container that it's safe for fingerboards! - and they are now as smooth as new. The thin layer of mineral oil applied with the normal Fast Fret brush is completely absorbed after a couple of days max, and leaves no residue. [/quote] Fast fret is safe for fretboards, but it's really designed for cleaning your strings. I think it just means that it won't have any detrimental affect when you inevitably get some on your fretboard! The best product to clean and moisturize your fretboard is lemon oil (although don't use it on maple). I use it every time I re-string. Another good product I use every time I re-string is Planet Waves Fret Polishing System, which is basically a pack of very, very fine abrasive cloths. Not only do they make your frets nice and shiny, but regular fret polishing will help to reduce obvious, localised fret wear.

I think it would have looked much nicer with chrome hardware and a white pearloid pickguard.

As far as the body goes, I would contact Elrick and ask directly. If it is an oil or wax rubbed finish it should be easy enough to keep on top of. Just keep it clean and apply some more oil or wax every now and then. Any bass will eventually show signs of wear if it gets played a lot, but natural finishes are perhaps more prone to showing it more quickly than gloss finishes. Having it on a wall hanger shouldn't be a problem, but try to make sure it's out of direct sunlight, and not anywhere particularly hot/cold/damp etc.

[quote name='Kongo' timestamp='1340582576' post='1706692'] Nope, through bridge. Yamaha TRB6II, so 35" scale. The taper towards the headstock falls shy of the nut. :-/ [/quote] Ah yes, that rings a bell.....! I've got a feeling that with my last TRB1005, the winding used to finish JUST on the right side of the nut.

Bleeeurgh! I've just been sick in my mouth. It looks like when a cheap, no-name, far-east manufacturer tries to make what they feel is an "upmarket" looking bass (although that does look like a quality piece of quilted maple).

[quote name='Kongo' timestamp='1340471871' post='1705019'] I should probably add my action is about 2mm off of the last fret and, not through trying to, I attack them with a bit of muscle and still, no flob. :-P I have to agree with you though. I've used pretty much all, bar DR Handmade when it comes to string brands. Used Warwick Black Label for years but they dull so damn quick. They are punchy but their Low-B sucks in comparison and it's tapered, which I normally like. D'addario Pro Steels don't cost much yet they stay in tune, last about a month before I drop them in the meth bath to revive the tone and I've never broken one. However they don't have enough options for 35" scale players. Their "Super long scale" sets are limited in gauge and single strings are 34", so I can't even buy a tapered low-B. My 6-string set adds a .30 but I did quite like Warwick's .25 I'd really like them .40 .60 .80 .100 .130 though. I don't like too much tension because to me it reduces the tonal voicing and a low-B has enough bass, it needs clarity too. I'd tune that gauge down as far as D-standard (A-standard with 5-string)... I'd still only add .5 to the set to detune to C#-standard (with a low G#)...even then, it's bass depending. Yeah...this is a topic I could discuss all day lol. But so far, D'addario Pro Steel...7 years running and they never let me down. Before then Elite's were my main choice...Those are awesome as well! Just don't try putting them on a 35" scale, they don't fit any of mine. :-/ Strings I CANNOT get along with though; Rotosound. Apparently the players choice...#1 in the "rock and metal" world etc etc...I don't see why. Snapped two G-strings merely by playing and they just sound duff to me. Also, and this is silly, but I don't like silk windings either. Plus, as I bathe them in meths once a month, the windings discolour and come off anyway. X-D Conklin strings however, the silk windings are purple, same as the meths, and seem unaffected. I had two strings by them: .150 and .195 gauge...armoured cable! X-D [/quote] Interesting stuff.....! Is your 5er strung through the body or something? I used standard long scale D'addario Prosteels on my TRB (35" scale) and they fitted fine. In fact, if you check D'addario's website they state that their long scale are suitable for a string scale length of up to 36.25"! Think I may get on stringbusters.com in a minute and order some of those .040" - .125" and give them a go. I'm sure I've wasted £20 on worse things!

Congrats Chris! Awesome score dude, I'm glad you've found the right bass (eventially!)! Has the G&L sold then? Happy Birthday too!

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1340439758' post='1704394'] Don't see or hear a problem with lighter gauges. I run low action with lighter strings so you have to use a light touch. The benefits of all this is that you don't fight the bass so much... don't tire, don't stress. and I am pretty sure being kinder to the hands will pay dividends longer in your playing life....with regards to hand problems etc etc [/quote] That's exactly the way I feel about playing bass these days; why make it any harder than it needs to be? If you make your instrument as comfortable and easy to play as possible, you'll get far more enjoyment out of it for the reasons you stated above. Think I might have to get some .040" - .125" and see how I get on...... I normally buy D'addario Prosteels, but I wish they had a set with .080" and .100" instead of .075" and .095". Ah well, I'll give it a shot!

I was surprised to read an interview with Andrew Gouche where he said that he uses .044", .060", .078", .098", .125". He tunes down a whole tone and he's quite a big guy, so I didn't think he would use such a light gauge. He says his technique is really light and gentle though so I guess it works okay.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1340400400' post='1704186'] If you spot some bass nerd watching you just chuck a few 5ths in on the B string and any songs that end on the A string B or higher chuck the low octave in at the end! [/quote] Oh, I didn't realise you'd seen me play before! I am genuinely finding it useful though, and it's great not to have to change bass/detune for the one song we do in dropped D (killing in the name of)!

[quote name='jensenmann' timestamp='1340388234' post='1703986'] I´m playing an obviously rare set, which is not in the poll: 0.040", 0.060", 0.080", 0.100", 0.125" stainless steel of Rockinger guitars. After a few years of trying different brands and strength I felt in love with these and use them since 20 years now. [/quote] Yeah sorry, I did realise I missed these out! I was just looking at standard D'addario gauges at the time as that's what I normally buy, but of course the gauge you're using is one of the most common ones too.

Well, I've done it. I've sold both of my 4 string Sandbergs, just got my KT5 left which is covering all of my needs, and I've got my new custom spec KT5 on order now which is scheduled for delivery at the start of October. Now I've been using a 5 exclusively for a while, I don't know how I coped without a B for so long! Thank you all for your advice and opinions.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1340384155' post='1703909'] Im the only person who voted for 0.125" so far then, pink Ernie Ball super Slinkys [/quote] How do you find them? Your 'Rays are 34" scale right? In my mind they would feel nice and easy to play, but I imagine them to be slightly flappy/rattly in action.

[quote name='Kongo' timestamp='1340378156' post='1703752'] My main gauge is - .45 .65 .80 .100 .130 I use those for standard, Bb standard and A standard. I play fingerstyle, root on the neck pickup and I'm not very reserved either. X-D They don't flob, but I don't like strings over tight, they tend to loose tone, especially the bell like tone I crave, the tighter they get. Also for tapping, having the lower strings not quite so thick helps reduce mud. It's all about the way you attack and EQ I think, long as they ain't rattling like hell it's all cool, and I do like a little fret buzz. Just as a fretless gains it's mwah from neck contact, fretted gains edge and grit from a touch of buzz. :-) Forgot to add, this is on both 35" and 34" scale. Strings are D'addario Pro Steel. [/quote] I'm suspecting this is where I'll end up, in fact, the more I think about it the more I think this is what I used to use. D'addario Prosteels are just awesome! They seem to be some of the chepest "name brand" strings about these days, but they're just great strings. I very rarely buy anything else.

Well, changed mind about the colour the next day! Hopefully I've done the right thing... The order's been confirmed, i've paid the deposit, and they've even told me what the serial number is! Now the worst part, WAITING! They've given me an estimated delivery of WEEK 40! This is going to be the longest 14 weeks ever!

Just interested to see what gauges people use really. I've only just returned to regular 5 string playing, and I'm not sure what gauge I used to use. I've just re-strung with .045" - .135" on the basis that I use .45" - .105" on a 4 string anyway, but they feel a bit like hard work TBH! I'd like to try lighter, like .40" - .125" or maybe lighter still, but I don't know if they'd be a bit flappy (especially the B ). With regard to the poll, I realise this isn't an exhaustive list, and we are talking about standard(ish) tuning (e.g. not E-C). So what do you use?

[size=4]the neck profile, and I guess nut width will be different between the T series and V series Californias. I haven't got either at the moment so I can't help you, but it would probably be worth getting in touch with the UK Distributor, [url="http://www.synergydistribution.co.uk/Welcome.html"]Synergy Distribution[/url] who should be able to help you. As far as weight goes, I have some figures aquired from a Sandberg dealer recently for the California TM5's: [font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]- Cal. TM-5 / Ash / Matt: 10,6 lbs[/font] [font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]- Cal. TM-5 / Swamp Ash / Highgloss: 9,9 lbs[/font] [font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]- Cal. TM-5 / Alder (just to compare) / Highgloss: also 9,9 lbs[/font] [font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]The highgloss paint itself weighs about 1lb apparently, so if you want it to be as light as possible, it's best to go for swampash with a matt finish, although there is an upcharge for swamp ash.[/font] [font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Also the California series is heavier than the Basic series as the bodies are bigger. I weighed my Basic Ken Taylor 5 (high gloss on alder) at about 7.5 - 8lb on my (crappy) bathroom scales![/font][/size]