Dudgeman

Thanks for your quick response..much appreciated. That makes sense. The yellow wire links the 2 "Hots" so is it possible to run a 2 wire lead to the volume pot..1 ground and one hot...i presume this would be series and a 4 wire would allow for parralel? Sorry if i have this wrong...happy with a sodering but its years since i did any wiring theory...lol.. Cheers

Photos!

Hi I have a couple of 4 pole jazz PUs but they have no wires on the bottom...they came off a mexican jazz deluxe.. I am adding a neck pick up as an experiment to an old P bass and these were lying around. Dead simple wiring..it will be volume only and has its own jack. I just dont know where to solder hot and ground to the actual PU. The PU is wound in 2 sections..there is a solder tab on each corner...and a bridging plate that connects the 2 halves but both ends of the plate have solder points. Anyone know where i should be soldering ground and hot too?? Cheers

[quote name='roman_sub' timestamp='1506497565' post='3379083'] The volume pots don't look right to me in the diagram above. If you look at this diagram, you'll see the hot wire from each pickup coming to the central lug, with the outer left lug connected in series [url="https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=two+volume+pot+wiring+jazz+bass&client=safari&rls=en&dcr=0&tbm=isch&imgil=JyNTy6Nixp8QFM%253A%253Bqa1Yhxmy6uQDfM%253Bhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.talkbass.com%25252Fthreads%25252Fjazz-bass-blend-pot-wiring-help.509762%25252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=JyNTy6Nixp8QFM%253A%252Cqa1Yhxmy6uQDfM%252C_&usg=__cmVYgOWHWlGjmruAUyZzZ6GGjBM%3D&biw=1440&bih=1019&ved=0ahUKEwi6k_SE7MTWAhUMD8AKHfFdCZUQyjcIMw&ei=WlPLWbr-E4yegAbxu6WoCQ#imgrc=8mY8YTIR4qUfsM:"]two volume pot wiring jazz bass[/url] I would try moving the white wire from the preamp onto the same to the left lug if that makes sense. [/quote] Done and nailed it..thats all it was...output has dropped which is interesting...but tone and seperate volumes now work a treat....thanks to everyone who chipped in...

Hi Thanks so much for the reply...i will give that a go..it didnt look right to me either...just wanted to save a lot of time and trial and error... Cheers

Anyone out there that can check through this wiring?? Thanks

[url=https://flic.kr/p/YWp1Q4][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/YWp1Q4]20170903_180845[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/159618897@N06/]Carl Duringer[/url], on Flickr

[url="https://flic.kr/p/XD58V3"][/url][url="https://flic.kr/p/XD58V3"]bass wiring[/url] by [url="https://www.flickr.com/photos/159618897@N06/"]Carl Duringer[/url], on Flickr

Sorted photos..I think

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1506007106' post='3375858'] I had one of these. The o/put was low on mine. If I still had it I'd change the pups to Wilkinsons. [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/131962681756?chn=ps&dispItem=1&adgroupid=47678200030&rlsatarget=pla-326836957136&abcId=1058846&adtype=pla&merchantid=113577147&poi=&googleloc=1006528&device=c&campaignid=864189576&crdt=0"]http://www.ebay.co.u...64189576&crdt=0[/url] Your picture isn't showing. Suggest you change to Flickr to host them. [/quote] Hi That's annoying its showing on my thread. Think I will change to flickr. Not worried about the output...plenty of volume with the preamp and the way it is wired..it's just checking through my wiring to see where my mistake is. Thanks for the heads up about the pics.

Hi all So finally got round to wiring up the bass. Now I need some help as I am close but no cigar..lol. Essentially I am nearly there but I have clearly soldered something wrong somewhere. I have embeded a very sketchy diagram of the way I have aired it and a photo to show it. So my layout is VVT(Bass) T(Treble) I am happy that the wiring from pick ups to micro switches is ok. I am happy that the wiring from the pre amp to both treble and bass pots is good. I am pretty sure that I have wired the battery to the preamp and stereo jack correctly. It is just how I have connected the volume pots to the micro switches..to each other and to the pre amp I want someone to look at. So at the moment..the Volume pot nearest the preamp (so basically the bridge volume) works as in it turns up and down The micro switches change the tones of the pick up..bass and treble work all the time, and if this volume is turned up full on the bridge then the neck volume pot works as well, but not properly...i cant use them to individually alter the volume of their respective pick ups..The neck pick up volume control does nothing unless the bridge pick up is volume up....I am sure it is to do with the way I wired the 2 pots together but can someone take a look at my hotch potch and let me know which needs changing. The really good news is that even not working properly the sounds coming out of this bass are already really good. Cant wait to be able to isolate the pick ups as well. Cheers [url="http://s918.photobucket.com/user/bassmandudge/media/warwick%20wiring/20170903_180845.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://s918.photobucket.com/user/bassmandudge/media/warwick%20wiring/bass%20wiring.jpg.html"][/url]

Vinegar and a swab/cotton bud will neutralise the damage caused by battery acid..(That horrible blue residue) I use 5 percent white vinegar...It won't damage the contacts... Well it didn't on my Sennheiser In ear receivers..(Stupidly left the batteries in them for 3 months post gig...idiot...idiot..idiot..). You can polish the contacts carefully after if you wish, but removing the residue allowed the contacts to work again. be careful on circuit boards and don't panic if it fizzes on the contacts..that's the chemical reaction..it also cleaned up the residue from the plastics a treat... I think there are youtube vids available for doing this...

[quote name='prowla' timestamp='1502991988' post='3354946'] +2 - every time I see a de-fretted bass for sale, I think "That'll cost extra to put the frets back on!". [/quote] hahaha Just did the very same to a Warwick Streamer...Put em back on! It was de fretted by a LGS luthier (Apparently... although in this case this would be a very lose term!) Wenge is so brittle the guy had butchered the neck so badly I actually had to plane it back before re fretting. Also be careful what you use to fill the fret slots..I always use veneer rather than filler....If you are going to hi gloss lacquer the neck you can get away with certain 2 part fillers but I wouldn't advise it...certainly don't use Polyfiller as the "Luthier" had done...the only saving grace was the filler was so easy to get out... If it is a maple neck there is more chance of it splintering when removing frets than a rosewood board...I echo the ground down nail pincers and soldering iron route, although potentially the easiest route is a neck swap for sure but don't be put off...Youtube and Basschat are your friends...it is not difficult it just requires a bit of patience... I don't let other Luthiers near my basses preferring to do them myself...but then I am a bit of a perfectionist as I have been a cabinet maker for years and have done a lot of guitar mods over the years ... Good luck and enjoy the process...I find it quite therapeutic!

Hi DB Appreciate the comments. So yes I am looking at the photos I took before dismantling and your right the original pots are stamped 25k..and yes...you clearly know your stuff as that is exactly how they were soldered together. green and white together and red black and shield together. So the plan was...lol..and hopefully still is to fit my EMG BTS system..this gives me bass boost/cut and treble boost/cut and dip switch on the separate circuit board (Mine is the older system. ) It looks like these run 25k pots as well but when I had this system attached to a PJ set up i never suffered with low output...maybe I will have to look at the MEC's...are they the same PU's on Rock bass and German Warwicks, and do you know if the alternative Bartolinis give better output? I will try and research...digging myself a hole here I feel.. Thanks Carl

[quote name='sprocketflup' timestamp='1501056786' post='3342036'] Boooo none of the pics work for me [/quote] Damn thought I had sorted that..will try and sort it tomorrow

[quote name='donslow' timestamp='1500614792' post='3339054'] That finish and the general restoration looks ink-redible! [/quote] Very gooood...😊

[quote name='scrumpymike' timestamp='1500234375' post='3336399'] Well done Dudgeman [/quote] Thanks

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1499766778' post='3333395'] They have 2 rows of contacts, so they're double-pole. If you find a nice supplier of cool, small ones, other than Warwick. Please do let me know, I need one too in Gold. [/quote] Thanks will do... TBH I was going to order a couple of bits from Warwick..but if I find a cheaper alternative I will let you know.

Just a quick one The 3 way switches on the Warwick $$ or double buck...does anyone know if they are single or double pole switches Thanks

[quote name='Norris' timestamp='1499669273' post='3332774'] If you want to enhance the grain with black on a future build, have a look for black thixotropic grain filler. It's awful to work with, gets absolutely everywhere, but really brings the grain out - especially on ash. Also do two or three applications and sand back each time - it will save you a fortune in lacquer (ask me how I know! ) [/quote] So how do you know...hahahaha...I think I have used something similar in a work setting years ago ..using Black 2 part filler on American oak to pull the grain out. And yes that was a messy old process as well...looked good though.... Appreciate the idea..Will store it for future builds...

[quote name='Bassassin' timestamp='1499556073' post='3332215'] Thanks for the info Dudgeman - would never have thought of using ink as a stain. [/quote] Me neither..my original idea was to see if I could use a black stain to enhance the grain...sand it back and put a different colour over it...I was tempted by a blue finish...but so glad this happened using ink... One of the thing that is really cool with this bass is at some point in its life someone has been using it left handed. There are 2 screw holes that I have filled and stained where the scratch plate was and there is also a hole on the small horn where he had attached the strap button...would love to know who had used it in it's life..hell the thing is nearly as old as me and I have been used by flippin loads of people!!

[quote name='Bassmonkey' timestamp='1499607596' post='3332451'] [attachment=248697:IMG_5694.jpg]This is my Antoria LP. Looks very similar, I kept the colour, had the gold fittings recoated, added new pickups and bridge etc - I love it. [/quote] Oh bud that is so cool...I had never even heard of Antoria before buying this bass...After getting all excited about maybe being able to sort the intonation I took a look at the round saddles from an old Warwick single piece bridge I have knocking around ..thinking I might try using individual saddles...they will take some fettling..will put a flat bottom on them so they sit nicely on the plate and they need to be made slightly narrower but they may well work....

Stunning stuff

[quote name='Bassassin' timestamp='1499429731' post='3331516'] The saddle's a simple metal bar - it should be possible to improvise something. I don't think anything current uses the old 2-point system so your choice for a new replacement is limited to a rather expensive Hipshot: [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hipshot-Supertone-4-string-Bass-Bridge-Gibson-2-point-Chrome-5G410C-/111705155990"]http://www.ebay.co.u...C-/111705155990[/url] And that's assuming the post spacing is the same. Considering it's an arch-top, your other alternatives would be a 3-point or some sort of tune-o-matic & stop bar/tailpiece arrangement. Moving swiftly on, wouldn't mind a bit of insight into exactly how you went about getting that finish - I have an old Ibanez Blazer half-stripped which would look amazing done like that. [/quote] So the finish was relatively simple. Rubbed the body down to natural wood. I just used black Quink ink.. (or maybe Parker..cant quite remember)..when it goes on it covered pretty well..i let it dry and then very lightly sanded back with 1200 grit dry paper. It took quite a few coats. I wish I had taken some photos of that process..as before it was sanded each time it didn't look good...it was a kind of shiny black brown colour. Once sanded back and all the shinyness was gone the grain shone through. It was a very thin covering in the end and was easily damaged...it then got sprayed with 2k poly lacquer.. rubbed back..but only to 1200..i usely go finer and polished out. I didn't over polish it so it doesn't have a completely glass like finish...just a really good shine. As it was ink I had to sand it out in places as any glue residue shows through and obviously the ink doesnt soak in. The ink dust is really dirty when you sand it back though..so watch your clothes...carpets...laundry...etc...

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1499382160' post='3331270'] Is your bridge missing a bit? It looks like there should be some sort of raised saddle in between the studs. That would certainly explain the duff intonation if so! [/quote] Your spot on..as I said elsewhere..cant believe I missed it..doh!