Mr. Foxen

[quote name='Shockwave' timestamp='1346545576' post='1790513'] The fretboard will lightly sanded to get rid of the current string marks and finished in epoxy to protect it. Thinking about getting some front facing inlays installed as well because I get really lost on something this big! Not sure what type of inlays as I find they look ugly on a lined fret-less bass. [/quote] If you are epoxy coating the board anyway, you could stick a comic book page to it or anything like that.

Is the SVTII pro vintage now? I sort of considered them hold up example of the compromises in modern amp construction.

[quote name='Ashborygirl' timestamp='1346572412' post='1790584'] Good morning guys! I've received a request from the seller to revise my feedback! He obviously didn't realise that what he wrote to eBay would be copied to me so he expects a revision after telling eBay what an awful person I am. He's also told eBay that the [u]amp[/u] was faulty, so he's either lying to eBay or to all those kind enough to ask him a question. [/quote] Also, you are now a guy in his response.

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1346531849' post='1790377'] I've posted a question asking if there are any issues with the amp and what the dispute is about - I wonder what his angle on this will be.. [/quote] [quote name='warwickhunt' timestamp='1346518675' post='1790202'] [size=4]He's responded and said...[/size] [size=4]"[color=#000000][font=arial, sans-serif]went to pack the amp and thought there was a problem. turned out to be the surge protected socked not the amp. I didn't want to send it off un;ess it was perfect - it is perfect and all in the original packing. Used about 6 times. The guy was upset and destroyed my 100% rating even though I was just doing what I thought was right."[/font][/color][/size] [size=4][color=#000000][font=arial, sans-serif]When he sussed the amp was OK could he not have offered it to the OP? [/font][/color][/size] [/quote] [quote][color=#000][font=arial, sans-serif][size=2]Hi. It didn't need repairing - It was plugged in through a surge protected socket which was faulty. Nothing to do with the amp. I'm not technical and felt a bit stupid to be fair.[/size][/font][/color][/quote] Seems fairly straight up as an answer not knowing the back story, guess he'll get a bit fed up of that question though.

It is the coupling between SMPS and class d output stage that made for the lightweight amp revolution. Power supply is pretty important to wattage figures, along with heatsinking, its a pretty major determining factor to maximums.

Still wouldn't be a comparison that relates to practice though. That is why the number's game exists.

[quote name='dincz' timestamp='1346504374' post='1789993'] If you don't know the measurement method/conditions then yes, they mean nothing. [/quote] And you intend to use them under exactly those conditions.

The only lesson here is that watts mean nothing.

A number of watts alone is a bit meaningless without a bandwidth and a THD.

Surfaced behind the speaker is most important, but doing pretty much all of it is belt and braces.

Fiberglass insulation is a big scary because the vibration makes it shed fibers of glass, which fire out of the port, and are a bit unhealthy.

Rustins plastic coating, and cutting back and polishing.

That's why you need a sealed cab, keeps the moisture in.

Stuffing is for sealed cabs, lining is for ported cabs. The only affect it should have on the top end is smoothing out the ugly bit where the reflection from the back cancels the output from the cone and gives notch, and a bump where the opposite happens. Marshall were historically big on cheaping out, so it would be more they wouldn't do it if they could get away with not doing it.

[quote name='MiltyG565' timestamp='1346258070' post='1787144'] it has a slot cut across the front just under the speaker. its about 5-51/2 inches long and an inch deep. when i play, it absolutely throws air out of it. i was thinking just cut a section out the back a few inches deep? no? [/quote] Manipulating that slot will be the way to alter the sound. The air in the box functions as a spring to stop the speaker moving too far and breaking, so opening it up defeats that and the speaker farts out. The air in the port works kind of like a pendulum enhancing the speaker at a certain frequency, if its tuned right, that frequency is where the speaker gets weak, sometimes its too high and gives a boomy hump, which is loud but not very musical. Plug up some or all of the port with a piece of wood and see if it changes the sound in a way you like. If its only an inch deep chances are it isn't ideal, and will probably give noise when it gets loud enough.

Are they sealed cabs? They should be ported with that driver. Bit more to porting than cutting a hole, do it wrong and the power handling drops through the floor. Important bit for hearing is midrange, concentrate there rather than treble, loads of treble makes nasty sound, especially if you have a gap in the midrange.

What sort of sound are you after is main thing there, start with that. Cab wise its going to be Barefaced, but which one is the question. When you say 'small' physically small, or can it be big if its still light?

Bolting that to a breadboard would give it an £800 RRP.

With the tiny heads and cabs you can get now, I don't think there is any advantage to a combo over a head and cab, that is much easier to bring up to gigging level, and means you can take the head and borrow a cab on the gig.

[quote name='MiltyG565' timestamp='1346202222' post='1786537'] the cabs i have are fine. they are boomy, which is alright, i just want to let some brightness and tone into my sound. do you know how loud the head case would be? and what parts i would need for it (excluding the obvious timber). [/quote] It its passband the driver headcase has a 102db sensitivity rating, the drivers in the subs have 97.8, so two will give another 3db for 100.8. That's pretty rough and ready, but not getting impression you are gunning for totally accuracy with this. Looking up headcase plans and the Greenboy forum will tell you all about it from people who've made them. [quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1346223214' post='1786575'] Do you use a [b]VERY[/b] trebly sound? Or slap a lot? I ask because I had a TE Bright Box for 24 hours. However I wasn't generating anything like enough top end for it to make any difference to the overall sound so it went straight back to the shop. [/quote] The cabs he has are running drivers only rated to 1.8khz so an octave or two of mids are missing compared to standard range bass cabs. [quote name='paul_5' timestamp='1346233830' post='1786714'] could you reduce the size of the cab a little to cut out some of the boominess? [/quote] Boomyness is from undersized cabs.

OK, those basically are Sub drivers, not much top to them at all, the mid driver in the headcase looks to be a reasonable match to a pair in terms of sensitivity. If you don't have an external active crossover you'd need to design a crossover to suit though. What ports are in the cabs you have? Lowering the tuning a bit might sort boomyness too, but no way of adding any top end to them since hte driver limits that. Lowering the tuning is either extending the ports or reducing the port area, by plugging one up, this can give you trouble with air in the ports moving fast enough to make noise, but you aren't throwing loads of power at them. Edit: Should note with those drivers you need a midrange rather than a tweeter, there is a big gap they don't do before you get to tweeter territory, might not want tweeter territory at all. Another solution would be running a guitar combo at the same time with the bass cut from it.

Figuring what speakers are in the 15s would be a good start, need to ahve an idea what their output is before can come up with things that will keep up. But the headcase is basically the most complete solution, assuming you have a crossover sorted. Definitely sounds that aims are going to be better served with more suitable cabs not just adding more stuff to unsuitable ones.

I was recently talking to my mate Bristol Dave, AKA Natzee-Tintin, Shorts Guy, Diamond Dave, Hipster Hitler Roadie. He had a mate in the punk era who's genuine name was Nicholas Vile. Meant he had a lot of trouble with the police whenever they asked him his name and he replied Nicky Vile.

Stuffing the cabs will help the boomyness. Trace bright box is pretty far inferior to the headcase, its more directional and has narrower bandwidth, what do you think is good about it?