Mr. Foxen

Use sticky velcro dots. Wipe over with meths to degrease first, they'll stick better.

This is classic car restoration again. Better, or actually what he wants. I just shot around some messages to get hold of the guy that made this, see if he can hook you up with a plan:

I have a Black Westone Thunder 1A, it is pretty heavy, not a Jet because it has metal coloured hardware. I heard they were solid maple bodies. The wood coloured ones were Ash with a maple/walnut center.

He is looking for a 70s design, not looking to design a new cab. A 70s speaker in a 70s design cab that would have had that speaker in will give you a 70s sound, which I would kind of hope is his design goal here. Suggesting he make a new design, with knowledge he doesn't have applied to specifications that aren't available is astoundingly unhelpful.

There are diagrams of the Sunncabs about, an some people have made replicas, theres a dude on talkbass, maybe hit him up for advice. Edit: gogo gadget google: [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/diy-sunn-2000s-2x15-669545/"]Talkbass dude's thread[/url] I think this style is the better cab though, someone is doing repros: Edit2: [url="http://sunn.ampage.org/sdp/index.php?topic=4595.0"]ton of useful links[/url]

If they've lost the glow, but haven't turned white, maybe they are fine, but they aren't getting power any more, maybe a fuse somewhere. Easy enough to swap them out to check.

These things haven't been powered up for 20+ years, should be good to go. Replacing all the electros an other criticals before I even try turning it on. Been suggestions I switch out the diodes, sound like a goer, they are cheap, and apparently new ones won't need the snubber caps.

Overkill filter capacitors (modern ones are laods smaller, same value equivalents in 35mm don't even poke out the top of the clamps, I figured more is more so these are more than double value of originals, more punch or something. I'm told it is a worthwhile upgrade for my purpose, of bass, and the guitarist I lent my Burman with overkill filter caps in was loving it, so think it should be happy.

Because the thread is about valve heads.

[quote name='Toasted' post='1271208' date='Jun 16 2011, 11:17 AM']How many of these do you have? [/quote] Nine SC120, although at least one has had the preamp gutted out of it and replaced. That one and another are with a tech I trust. Am fairly tempted to use many of them at once when they are working. Not sure all of them are going to be recoverable. Edit: typos

Wow, never seen three before. Good effort.

[quote name='Slipperydick' post='1271097' date='Jun 16 2011, 10:05 AM']Eddie Current... What a great name for a 50s Rock n Roll singer ![/quote] Eddie current and the vorticies.

Are you mixing your speaker nerds there?

[quote name='Big_Stu' post='1270009' date='Jun 15 2011, 01:10 PM']I take it this was a dry scourer? If not you're a braver man than I, not saying it's wrong - but I'd be scared of switching it on ever again. I also read that the rust on the tranny's assists them in some way, can't remember the details.[/quote] [quote]Step one, after selecting one that looked basically complete, was give it a wash. Damp scourer sponge and some washing up liquid for the tolex, and the top bit of the chassis. Nothing is gonna be passing current soon, so a bit of moist in there is going to do no harm.[/quote] Partridges are varnished anyway, it is a moist sponge rather than a dripping wet one. The 'theory' of the rust is the insulating oxide layer between the laminations breaks up eddy currents in the magnetic flux, but I have no idea if that is snake oil or not.

[quote name='Slipperydick' post='1269534' date='Jun 15 2011, 01:14 AM']Not an amp I'm familiar with, but tbh anything with ECC83s in,I'd swap the anode load resistors - all of em, theyre cheap enough and it often makes a huge difference.[/quote] Care to explain more?

[quote name='4-string-thing' post='1269424' date='Jun 14 2011, 11:23 PM']Welcome to the worlds best bass amp owners club! I have the same 220/402 rig and it does sound brilliant with almost any bass (but especially a Fender P) The 220 is rated at 125w into 4 ohms or 170 into 2 ohms, though the later ones were rated a bit higher I believe. They do sound brilliant, but are probably not as versatile as modern amps and are quite a bit bulkier and heavier! I bought my 220 new in 1980 and have only just retired it from gigging, it's never broken except for blowing a fuse once after it had been stored in a garage for a couple of months. If you do sell, there will no doubt be a few takers on here.... Out of interest Oli, did you get that 120 working yet?[/quote] Not done anything with it. Dunno much about SS stuff with PCBs, and the tech I had lined up for the work has gone AWOL.

Make sure there is an ECC81 in the phase inverter slot, loads seem to have 83s in there which make them really gainy and up the noise floor a lot. If it is unmolested, replacing the electrolytics will be the main thing to do. I've sent a list to a electronics parts supplier, hoping he gets back to me, and I can get a kit for you too.