Jabba_the_gut

Nice. Like the rack of basses you have already made. Leiden is a really nice city too - worked there for a while in the past. Nice people, buildings and restaurants!!

Hi. Where are you located? If you are local to me I could fix the missing fret. Cheers

Finally! Had warm enough weather and the time to finish this. I'm pleased with how it has turned out. Even the tarty LEDs look nice...though not everyone's taste!

Cheers - here's a slightly better picture. Thinking of sticking some of logo on the headstock so piece of paper fitted for size!!

[quote name='rubis' timestamp='1371331434' post='2112735'] Tasty What kind of bridge is that? [/quote] I'm not sure - I think it was off a Squier bass. It used to have a pair of saddles but I drilled it to accept four individual ones instead.

[quote name='rubis' timestamp='1371329153' post='2112706'] I've got a hankering to attempt something in the style of a Rob Allen semi-hollow with a piezo bridge, you could do a hybrid a bit like that semi hollow P bass [/quote] Funny you say that - that is something I'm hoping to have a go at in the near future!! I've thought about a semi jazz or p-bass - like the pic at the top of the page!!

It's been a little while but I have done some more on this. Body is done, just got some shaping on the neck to do and the frets to fit. Couldn't resist putting it together though to make sure everything will line up ok.

[sub]Another vote for the US Musicman SUB basses. If you like the feel of a jazz neck and the stingray tone, the US Musicman SUB Sterling (not to be confused with the Sterling by Musicman SUB....why did they pick the same words but put them in a different order????) is just the job but you don't seem to see many about. They have 3 band eq rather than the standard 2 band but doesn't have the selector switch you get on 'proper' Musicman Sterlings. [/sub] [sub]The bass piccie thing next to my details is my SUB 4 bass and I think it looks pretty nice with the changed scratchplate. SUBs seem to go for between £300 and £400 dependent on condition from what I've seen and paid for them.[/sub]

The body of this bass is made from a slab of elm - it was an old desk top or something but had been thicknessed both sides so there shouldn't have been any finish left on it. It was a very dry piece of wood - found a single live woodworm in it so had to treat it for that!! I'm wondering if it was that is the problem though the treatment (suitable for use on furniture) should be able to take a new finish. The woodworm is another hassle!! I've had to treat the few bits of wood I have around just on the off chance anything escaped from the piece of elm. There were literally just a couple of flight holes (can't tell if they are recent or not) and I haven't seen any traces but I'm not risking it so everything is getting treated.

Cheers for all the advice. The tung oil I have been using hasn't hardened (if that's the correct term) - if I handle the body, I end up with oily hands. This is about 10 days after applying it and wiping it off etc. Hopefully it will soak in or the excess rub off. The sample I tried was fine but the actual body, looks pretty good but is just oily to the touch. What I'm finding is building basses is fine in terms of wood work, but getting that quality finish is proving a bit more tricky!!

[quote name='CHRISDABASS' timestamp='1369510131' post='2090026'] What a beautiful piece of ash!! [/quote] That really is a great looking bass. I'm in the finishing stages of making a bass with an ash body - it really is such nice wood. I might have to have a look at some Danish oil and try on on a few offcuts. Cheers Jez

Cheers for the details. I'm trying Tung oil at the moment. I've given it a couple of coats so far - soaks in a fair bit but coverage is pretty even. Going to give it a polish with beeswax when I'm done. I'll put photos up no matter how it goes!! Cheers again Jez

Cheers Rubis. The elm is quite dry and absorbent so I reckon that might go the same way - I'll let you know!!

I've had a look on this forum about finishes and Tru-Oil gets mentioned a fair bit. I'm looking at finishing a couple of basses (one elm and one wenge/sycamore) with a natural finish but have a couple of questions I'd appreciate some advice on: 1. Do I need to seal the wood prior to applying oil? 2. What other oils work well other than Tru-Oil (thinking tung oil, teak oil etc.)? 3. What about just using wax? Cheers

[quote name='nugget' timestamp='1365367781' post='2038721'] Where's the build thread? Sounds interesting! [/quote] Hi Dave. Must admit, I liked the look of the block inlays you did so I though I'd have a go!! I haven't put bindings on the neck though - maybe next time!! I've added a line to the build thread - it had been quiet for a while. Cheers J.

Done a little work on the elm bass. Decided to have a go at a maple neck with wenge block inlays and though it looked nice with the elm. It's all just rough sawn at the moment

Does seem like some people love them and others don't. I've got an ABM500 head at the present but have also has an ABM300 1x15 combo which I traded on here. Wish I hadn't - was a great amp and in great condition. Didn't realise how good it was until I changed it for a head and cab set-up. The ABM500 is great too but the 1x15 cabs are only rated at 300w and the head just exceeds this at 8 ohms so you need to be careful!!

That's an ABM head not a MAG. The ABM has a valve in the pre-amp that is blended by the knob that is missing from the head in the photo.

[quote name='CHRISDABASS' timestamp='1365326780' post='2037966'] I like to use birchwood casey tru oil (gun stock oil) it is very easy to apply and brings out the best in the wood. It is also easy to repair should you need to do so in the future [/quote] Cheers for that. I've got some Tru-oil I'd used on a darker colour bass - just wasn't sure if it was okay for a maple fretboard. I'll get a couple of offcuts and give it a try. J.

Just wondered if anyone could give me a bit of advice as how to finish a maple fretboard. I’ve nearly finished building a maple neck, with a maple fretboard and wenge block inlays. I’m kind of thinking about using oils to finish it, which I have used on darker necks before but wondered how this would work for a maple fretboard. Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated! Cheers J.

Or try one of these p-basses....26" scale!! That's a somewhat modified 20 years ago Hohner cricket bat next to it. Looks awful and is a bit knocked about but the neck is really nice. [attachment=130598:DSC03985.JPG]

Brilliant!!