Resetting a soundpost

[steviedee]

I'm thinking of doing a bit of work on my backup bass myself just wondered if anyone has any info on soundpost resetting and where to buy the proper tool.

[BobVbass]

thomann do the tool - no idea how it works though - guess you tighten it till you here a cracking sound - hmm maybe not

[hubrad]

I have the Stentor one, which is about £45. Most decent shops can obtain it, I can organise it for you. It generally travels in my car so I'll most likely have it at gigs in case of emergency(!) A friend of mine improvised one - you need a sharp end and enough weight at the other end to move the post by judicious tapping.
A good general starting point in this MADLY FRUSTRATING procedure is to set the post about 3/4" behind the treble foot of the bridge, perpendicular to both back and top.
Any change to the distance from the bridge or from the rib will alter your tone. I've never had the patience to really experiment with this, as you have to slacken and tighten the strings every time you move it.
I think Mr.Bassman has a book frm the States which has a whole chapter on the subject.
Last point - when your head is right down to the bass so you can look through the F holes, the sound of the post falling over (yet again) and hitting the back of the bass MAKES YOU JUMP!
Good luck!

[steviedee]

I t just sounds like a right palaver but I reckon anything will seem enjoyable after deciding to strip the varnish off the scroll!

[CoolCat]

[quote name='steviedee' post='854682' date='Jun 2 2010, 11:48 AM']I t just sounds like a right palaver but I reckon anything will seem enjoyable after deciding to strip the varnish off the scroll![/quote]


It is not as hard as it seems although you will have to detune, adjust soundpost, adjust bridge position (don't forget), tune, play for a few hours, detune, adjust soundpost, adjust bridge position (don't forget), tune,play for a few hours, detune, adjust soundpost..... you cycle a few times with this until is to your taste.

As a rule of tumb, sundpost initial placement should start like described before, below the right foot of the bridge (looking from the front) by a soundpost thickness and as perpendicular to belly and back as possible. The soundpost itself should have the wood grain perpendicular to the grain of the top of the bass for resistence - look at the top of soundpost for correct placement. Usually soundpost top and bottom are shaped to match the curvature of the bass.Try to keep it snug.Tight - you may damage the bass, loose - you will hear rattling when playing.

Tone wise, from my observations on my own bass:

Moving from start position towards the bottom or towards the centre you get more bass or more bass and less volume.
Moving soundpost towards the outside (f-hole) or up (under the bridge) you get more treble and more volume.

Try moving the soundpost small increments and on x axis first then y axis if start position is centre or zero of the axis.

Results will most probably depend on your taste and combination of strings, bridge placement (try to keep the same at all times) and bass build caracteristics.

The soundpost alters dramatically how bass sounds and that is why is called "alma" or "soul" in the family of string instruments.

My soundpost is at the moment a soundpost thickness to the right of the starting position and it works well for me balancing the darkeness of Evah strings with good top strings definition when trying to do jazzy walking bass runs.... - I can't really - but evey so offten they work and that is enough for me

Barbecue forks can be a out of trouble tool, however you can invest on a proper S shaped setter from the auction site of election.You just cannot buy patience.

There is plenty to read on the web and youtube videos on placement inside cellos - it is the same - just a "petit" frame body!!

Edited June 2, 2010 by CoolCat

[keeponehandloose]

Definetly get a propr setter.It makes the the job a hell of a lot easier than any homemade tools.

[keeponehandloose]

Definetly get a propr setter.It makes the the job a hell of a lot easier than any homemade tools.

[fonzoooroo]

get a proper setter, then attack it with files and a grinder. Sharpen the pointy end, then open the "roundy" bits so it sits further round the back of the post. Remove sharp edges from the round end.

Once you've done that, the post'll stay stuck to the pointy end better, (so less annoying dropping the post inside the bass) and the work to the other end relly helps with small movements... In standard form, they tend to dig their corners into the post.

Another good trick is to wind insulating tape, or pop some heat shrink tube over the shank of the setter. Saves mangling the varnish round the f fole.

They're ridiculously expensive for what they are, but an invaluable tool.

[janmaat]

just set up a soundpost with a barbeque fork, two people, a good light, and it took 15 min. Used a long bit of wood to hammer it into place. If it is a valuable instrument, the settler is probably an investment worth it. In our case, it was a doghouse fiddle and the settler would almost cost as much as the bass LOL - so you may as well give it a try and if it don't work for you, get the tool IMHO