Cabinet Plans

[agedhorse]

26 minutes ago, djk said:

Bill, according to the Eminence web site these were "Recommended for professional audio and bass guitar applications as a woofer/mid-bass or midrange in vented monitors, satellites and multi-way enclosures."

 

I'm guessing that they were trying to cover all the bases (no pun intended) by implying they could be employed for a wide range of purposes.

 

As a bass guitar driver, it’s very limited. Some of this can be overcome by using multiples of this driver (410 and 810 for example)

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

16 minutes ago, agedhorse said:

As a bass guitar driver, it’s very limited. Some of this can be overcome by using multiples of this driver (410 and 810 for example)

+1. The original SVT had drivers with 1mm xmax. That's why it took sixteen of them to handle the SVT head. You can find ads from 1969 showing the SVT head with two SVT 810 cabs. As driver technology improved the need for that many drivers lessened. Today you can find tens that are the equal of eight of the original SVT drivers. 

[Downunderwonder]

On 26/06/2025 at 16:11, Downunderwonder said:

This.^

 

If it is shelf ported you could run it through the centre, slap new sides on and call it good.

 

That would only work for a tall skinny 210 as opposed to one that is squat with diagonally mounted drivers.

 

You want to maintain the cross sectional area amd length of the ports, half the area for each cabinet. Half the original cab volume each.

 

I don't know why this wasn't clear enough.

[Phil Starr]

14 hours ago, djk said:

A further bit update.

 

I got an email back from Ashdown and they appear to be quite helpful. Rather than email anything they are going to give me a call, hopefully next week. For a company that is not getting anything, revenue wise, from this I'm really impressed.

 

My background is as an electronics engineer before I retired, I stared off in comms and ended up in IT, so I understand that you can't just throw a speaker into any size of box and expect it to perform well. So off to do some research I went. Now I know that "a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing" but I had a go.

 

Assuming that, as many think, these are Eminence Beta 10-B's, or a derivative of them, I checked the enclosure specs for them on the Eminence website, copy attached.

 

Although the enclosure size and that of the BC110T are close, there is a difference in port numbers and size.

 

I hate to ask for help, but can someone comment on these differences.

 

Could I continue to use the port specified in the BC110T or should I go for the ones recommended in the attached.

 

One further point. Initially I am just going to install the driver, and not the horn. My plan is to go step by step and assess performance one change at a time. Thats the engineer in me.

 

Thanks again

 

P.S. This is as much a project as something to use in anger. I have a couple of decent rig's I can use if I had the opportunity to play in a larger venue. Being retired I need something to occupy my time. I'm also building a VOX Phantom Tribute bass, converting a child's six string acoustic into a UBass and recently bought a Dan Armstrong body blank which will be grafted to a short scale neck I have lying around.

 

 

Sorry but that is the wrong set of plans, there are plans for the Beta 10 and Beta 10B on the Eminence web site so if you want to assume that your speaker is one of those then that's the way to go. I did think of pointing you in that direction but you'd still be guessing as to which of the two speakers you might have or if Ashdown specified any changes other than the colour of the cone. What I suggest you do is build the cab but make the baffle/front panel removable. As you say this is a project and if the baffle is screwed but not glued then you can make changes to the cab more easily as you experiment.

 

So the simple answer would be to build the BC110 30litre cab which is tuned fairly close to the original Ashdown cab. One 30l cab is much the same as any other and the only advantage of the BC110 is that it was designed to be easy to build and that makes is a good basis for building and experimenting within  a project. in this case it's almost finished so no point in changing tack now. It'll work and do the job you have planned for it. You can then modify it if you think it has shortcomings you can fix.

 

As an engineer you probably can glimpse the theory behind the design and probably want to start to get to grips with it. I'm sure we'd all enjoy discussing that with you but that'sa whole other thread