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Undoing a kludge


Kowad
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A couple of years ago and in the very early days of my bassing I bought a Spector euro4 rst. Lovely bass in many ways, but it took me a while to gel with it.

 

Within the gelling timeframe, a strap button just… fell out. Like the hole had been drilled / bored too wide (?!)

 

I thought about all the sensible options for a fix and then, knowing nothing about basses and (I think) compulsively impatient to try it strapped with some new strings I….

 

glued it.

 

I’m fairly mortified, with the benefit of hindsight. It was only a couple of months old. Factory problem. Fix would have been easy. If I hadn’t glued it.

 

The felt button on the original strap lock is glued. Looking at it, you might not know it’s glued. I’d like to work out what next tho - ideally to put on some schallers, but tbh also to scrub out the deep stain of shame that lurks at the back of my conscience.

 

Not averse to just taking it to a local luthier. Any thoughts welcome tho! I haven’t fiddled with it since gluing. It’s wood glued. I just sort of look at it. And feel lurking shame. 
 

cheers!

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32 minutes ago, Kowad said:

A couple of years ago and in the very early days of my bassing I bought a Spector euro4 rst. Lovely bass in many ways, but it took me a while to gel with it.

 

Within the gelling timeframe, a strap button just… fell out. Like the hole had been drilled / bored too wide (?!)

 

I thought about all the sensible options for a fix and then, knowing nothing about basses and (I think) compulsively impatient to try it strapped with some new strings I….

 

glued it.

 

I’m fairly mortified, with the benefit of hindsight. It was only a couple of months old. Factory problem. Fix would have been easy. If I hadn’t glued it.

 

The felt button on the original strap lock is glued. Looking at it, you might not know it’s glued. I’d like to work out what next tho - ideally to put on some schallers, but tbh also to scrub out the deep stain of shame that lurks at the back of my conscience.

 

Not averse to just taking it to a local luthier. Any thoughts welcome tho! I haven’t fiddled with it since gluing. It’s wood glued. I just sort of look at it. And feel lurking shame. 

 

...received wisdom on reddit r/woodworking seems to suggest Heat and/or White Vinegar - and if it wasn't exterior type PVA, then a water-dampened pad pressed around the stud for some minutes might do the trick in loosening the glue too :-

 

>> "The different ways to remove glue are thermally, chemically, or mechanically. The correct approach you ned to take depends on what what type of glue was used. ...

If it is PVA, use can use heat to soften the glue. You can also soften it chemically with vinegar, but that can react with removal knifes and leave a stain. Use a iron on its lowest setting to gently heat up the piece until the glue reaches around 140-150 F, then the should separate easily with a pallet knife. (This procedure is similar to removing the bridge on an acoustic guitar.)"

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6 hours ago, sandy_r said:

 

...received wisdom on reddit r/woodworking seems to suggest Heat and/or White Vinegar - and if it wasn't exterior type PVA, then a water-dampened pad pressed around the stud for some minutes might do the trick in loosening the glue too :-

 

>> "The different ways to remove glue are thermally, chemically, or mechanically. The correct approach you ned to take depends on what what type of glue was used. ...

If it is PVA, use can use heat to soften the glue. You can also soften it chemically with vinegar, but that can react with removal knifes and leave a stain. Use an iron on its lowest setting to gently heat up the piece until the glue reaches around 140-150 F, then the should separate easily with a pallet knife. (This procedure is similar to removing the bridge on an acoustic guitar.)"

Amazing. I have a heat gun which may work better than an iron! 😁

 

I suddenly have hope!

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7 hours ago, sandy_r said:

 

...received wisdom on reddit r/woodworking seems to suggest Heat and/or White Vinegar - and if it wasn't exterior type PVA, then a water-dampened pad pressed around the stud for some minutes might do the trick in loosening the glue too :-

 

>> "The different ways to remove glue are thermally, chemically, or mechanically. The correct approach you ned to take depends on what what type of glue was used. ...

If it is PVA, use can use heat to soften the glue. You can also soften it chemically with vinegar, but that can react with removal knifes and leave a stain. Use a iron on its lowest setting to gently heat up the piece until the glue reaches around 140-150 F, then the should separate easily with a pallet knife. (This procedure is similar to removing the bridge on an acoustic guitar.)"

 

Yep white vinegar is very good, I've just removed a load of PVA from a DB neck joint. You do need to be patient and take your time 👍

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3 hours ago, Kowad said:

Amazing. I have a heat gun which may work better than an iron! 😁

 

I suddenly have hope!

 

I'd be very wary of using a heat gun - something like an iron can direct the heat, through the stud,  directly to the glue, whereas a heat gun is going to spray heat all around the area (cracked finish?) If you haven't got an iron (or soldering iron, away from tip?) you may be better off using the Vinegar approach, if @Beedster has got good results with that?

 

Edited by sandy_r
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42 minutes ago, sandy_r said:

 

I'd be very wary of using a heat gun - something like an iron can direct the heat, through the stud,  directly to the glue, whereas a heat gun is going to spray heat all around the area (cracked finish?) If you haven't got an iron (or soldering iron, away from tip?) you may be better off using the Vinegar approach, if @Beedster has got good results with that?

 

OK, amazing. Thank you. So heat the button - I was thinking this was for general area-based glue removal. 

 

I can't honestly say that I understand the nature of the finish (it's a Sienna stain, so presumably... well. Staining), but not wrecking it in the service of dewrecking it sounds sensible. 'To save the village we had to destroy it' etc etc.

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I’m utterly bemused. I’ve just set everything up to finally take a deep breath and have a go at this and… there’s no glue?

 

I’m wondering what on earth happened here! Perhaps I got everything prepped then backed off?! And dreamed it?!
 

Anyway. This looks like a problem solved - except maybe for the original problem; the too big button hole. Gonna attempt putting schaller s locks in, are there any cures for a too big hole?

 

Many thanks for the input! Incredibly glad I haven’t destroyed this bass 😂

56472236-FF17-4656-BDA2-F270D716BE3F.jpeg

Edited by Kowad
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1 hour ago, Kowad said:

More glue?

 

 

 

...yep, more glue - as mentioned above, let it harden for at least half to 1 day before redrilling/screwing

 

BTW pretty sure that when i was fixing straplocks on a couple of basses, the exposed screwthread in the kit was a good bit longer than that shown in your OP photo - possibly even a bit longer than the example below

 

Straplock.png.57714fb4b6efbf2cf95300bdceea3502.png

 

Edited by sandy_r
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49 minutes ago, sandy_r said:

 

...yep, more glue - as mentioned above, let it harden for at least half to 1 day before redrilling/screwing

 

BTW pretty sure that when i was fixing straplocks on a couple of basses, the exposed screwthread in the kit was a good bit longer than that shown in your OP photo - possibly even a bit longer than the example below

 

Straplock.png.57714fb4b6efbf2cf95300bdceea3502.png

 

Blimey, yes. Side by side with another pair recently removed 👀

 

the s locks are in now, tbf they feel pretty secure, wonder if this was part of the problem!

FC5E5D42-A8D7-4ADE-B699-F3BDA5CDB6EE.jpeg

196691B0-927A-41A6-AED4-21039D0B2A38.jpeg

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50 minutes ago, itu said:

https://musicplayers.com/2012/04/vigier-excalibur-shawn-lane-master-signature-electric-guitar/

 

I know the text is about a g-word, but take a look at the strap button attachment picture.

Ooo. 
 

that’s interesting but I don’t think (?!) is what’s happened here. The schallers went in flawlessly - and I’d expect there to have been some grip from the brass if it was in there. The originals were wobbly, and one of them really did feel as if it just hadn’t been drilled enough. I think I would have seen if a brass casing fell out 👀

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