IncX Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 (edited) hi everyone, long time no post here ... i wonder if i can still see familiar names help me out on this one. here goes: im planning to have a custom bass made by JCbasses (i dont know when, hopefully next month) ... and i have no experience with it whatsoever, so far i have only the body design, but i am really confused with the wood combination. i want a blonde looking bass so i thought about: -alder body (i wonder if i can get away with cheap alder, or maybe i should have swamp ash instead?) -flamed maple top -bird's eye maple neck and fretboard -mike pope preamp -seymour duncan dual coil PUPs -fanned fret -kahler bridge w/ trem bar -gold or chrome hardware PROBLEMS: 1.) i want an agressive roaring Thumb NT 5 sound (i play metal but occasionally enjoy jamming on funk at home)... so that means wenge neck and fingerboard and bubinga body... but i want a "blonde bass" since all of my basses here have that stereotypical "dark" look (except for the vampyre LTD, but still, it has an ebony fingerboard). any compromise here? 2.) fanned frets .. i havent played nor touched them, but ppl NEVER say a bad thing about it, so i want that... what does it do really? give a B string a tighter sound, and not have much use for a 4 string? make you play faster? it wouldnt have been a problem except its not compatible with a KAHLER trem.... i know fanned frets have a monolithic bridge system. help me choose: fanned frets? or lots of whammy fun with a Kahler Tremolo? 3.) im working on a budget... so i guess i can only have ONE high end option, like a buck-eye top or something *lol* but i dont mind paying extra to get a really unique look (im actually hoping he can get Snakewood) or a significant tone upgrade (which explains the mike pope preamp). thanks everyone! Edited April 27, 2009 by IncX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peted Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 I doubt you'll be able to mix fanned frets with the Kahler tremelo. The bridge needs to be staggered to cater for the fanning, which you won't be able to do without using individual bass saddles or something VERY custom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IncX Posted April 27, 2009 Author Share Posted April 27, 2009 i agree peted, thats why i stated it in "problem nos 2" ... fanned frets and kahler trem, dont play together... so if it were you, which option would you choose and why? thanx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caruso Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 Swamp ash will be more expensive than alder. Alder generates a deeper tone so I'd opt for that. Mike Pope pre is fine but much more suitable for fusion or better said bassist who go for a finer tone, never found Foderas really cuttung through with Pope preamps im metal settings. Fanned frets I don't feel necessary for a 4 string e-string sounds good on most 34scale basses. A Kahler may be fine but how often are you going to use it in a song? And it is very heavy adding to the overall weight. Birdseye maple for neck and fretboard: ok, go for the fretboard only, neck made from rock maple will be fine. I don't undestand the realtion between the Pope and the Snakewood thing. All regarding the ... on a budget... situation. Just my thoughts after reading your post. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peted Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 [quote name='IncX' post='473403' date='Apr 27 2009, 02:52 PM']i agree peted, thats why i stated it in "problem nos 2" ... fanned frets and kahler trem, dont play together... so if it were you, which option would you choose and why? thanx [/quote] Well, if you're asking my opinion, I don't like tremolo on basses and I'm currently having a fanned fret instrument built for me now. So if it was me, i'd go with the fanned frets, but not on a 4 string bass unless you're planning on downtuning or tuning in 5ths to see any benefit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IncX Posted April 27, 2009 Author Share Posted April 27, 2009 (edited) [quote name='caruso' post='473419' date='Apr 27 2009, 03:27 PM']Fanned frets I don't feel necessary for a 4 string e-string sounds good on most 34scale basses. A Kahler may be fine but how often are you going to use it in a song? And it is very heavy adding to the overall weight. Birdseye maple for neck and fretboard: ok, go for the fretboard only, neck made from rock maple will be fine. I don't undestand the realtion between the Pope and the Snakewood thing. All regarding the ... on a budget... situation. Just my thoughts after reading your post. Cheers.[/quote] i see... what good preamp/pup can you recommend for metal and funk stuff? ... and when you say "cutting" ... doesnt it depend on the amp and the EQ? i dont mind the weight since i play warwicks *lol* but you are right about that kahler being a "fun" thing more than a functional one since i probably can only use it in song endings and such.... as for the pope, well i dont mind spending for it if its really THAT worth it (my fusion and jazz chops suck terribly though, so the pope might not be so good - how about Nordstrand?) ... and snakewood... well, ive loved it the first time i saw it on a website, so i could really put off the custom until i can afford snake wood (is it really that expensive?) -*- thanks for sharing pete... Fanned = good for 5 string (ill keep that in mind since i havent owned a 5 string that made me happy, i always end up selling em). Edited April 27, 2009 by IncX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wotnwhy Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 i'd say trem over fan, just because it will be more fun. as for the wood combo conundrum, this is part of what the luthier is there for. sit down with them and talk about what you from looks/sound/feel. if they're a good luthier (i'm not familiar with JCBasses) then they will know what to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IncX Posted April 27, 2009 Author Share Posted April 27, 2009 (edited) im liking this tone so much... [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PORjKLlfqgg"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PORjKLlfqgg[/url] im thinking thats probably bubinga on that? -*- i see.... ill take note of that wot. glad the trem is getting a lil love now *lol* Edited April 27, 2009 by IncX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caruso Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 [quote name='IncX' post='473433' date='Apr 27 2009, 02:47 PM']i see... what good preamp/pup can you recommend for metal and funk stuff? ... and when you say "cutting" ... doesnt it depend on the amp and the EQ? i dont mind the weight since i play warwicks *lol* but you are right about that kahler being a "fun" thing more than a functional one since i probably can only use it in song endings and such.... as for the pope, well i dont mind spending for it if its really THAT worth it (my fusion and jazz chops suck terribly though, so the pope might not be so good - how about Nordstrand?) ... and snakewood... well, ive loved it the first time i saw it on a website, so i could really put off the custom until i can afford snake wood (is it really that expensive?) -*- thanks for sharing pete... Fanned = good for 5 string (ill keep that in mind since i havent owned a 5 string that made me happy, i always end up selling em).[/quote] SD pickups and their own preamps will get you what you want. Regarding the cutting thing just think about your WW and what you do to shape the sound. Sure thing that amp and EQing plays a role but first the bass in itself has to sound good. Yes, WW are heavy. That is Bubinga on that Fodera in the vid and the sound is really good. Snakewood is really expensive, maybe the alder/ash bubinga is an option for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IncX Posted April 27, 2009 Author Share Posted April 27, 2009 i see... so that is really Bubinga on that Fodera? ... cause i realized it could also be Afzelia.... the owner doesnt seem to reply to msgs (must be quite a busy guy).... and one more thing... alder body + wenge neck-fretboard + SD PUP and preamp = could sound as punchy and growly as that Fodera? im thinking that when it boils down to it... i would prefer tone over aesthetics and color combination.... although, i really dont want anything black *lol* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh3184 Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 I'd personally ditch the Kahler trem. It'd be good fun at the start but I doubt you'd use it a lot. Fanned frets looks awesome though and you can't argue with increased tension! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caruso Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 (edited) [quote name='IncX' post='473503' date='Apr 27 2009, 05:03 PM']i see... so that is really Bubinga on that Fodera? ... cause i realized it could also be Afzelia.... the owner doesnt seem to reply to msgs (must be quite a busy guy).... and one more thing... alder body + wenge neck-fretboard + SD PUP and preamp = could sound as punchy and growly as that Fodera? im thinking that when it boils down to it... i would prefer tone over aesthetics and color combination.... although, i really dont want anything black *lol*[/quote] Had a look at the Fodera homepage for specs of the Monarch New Standard :Standard specs for the New Standard Series include: 34" scale 24 Large Frets Mahogany or Ash body Maple Neck Rosewood Fretboard Flame Maple or Quilted Maple Top Bolt-on Neck construction 2 band 18v Fodera Pope Preamp EMG PJ/JJ or Seymour Duncan Vintage style PJ/JJ Pickups So, no alder as body wood if you wanto to go that way. Afzelia has a more yellowish colour ( at least my Streamer St. II) and finer structure. Edited April 27, 2009 by caruso Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IncX Posted April 28, 2009 Author Share Posted April 28, 2009 i see... so that Fodera ddnt have Bubinga in it at all? ... whats the difference between a seymour duncan and EMG pups? ... believe it or not, i havent tried em... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caruso Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 [quote name='IncX' post='473934' date='Apr 28 2009, 07:56 AM']i see... so that Fodera ddnt have Bubinga in it at all? ... whats the difference between a seymour duncan and EMG pups? ... believe it or not, i havent tried em...[/quote] According to the vid I searched for the Standard version of the Monarch and these don't have Bubinga tops but possibly that bass in the vid was custon made. I mentioned the specs regarding the body wood which is either ash or mahogany. EMGs tend to be very clear which I like and prefer over other pickups. You can make a clear/clean sound dirty/growly whatever just using a stompbox but changing the soundpalette of a pickup with a certain character is much more difficult. SD offers wide range of pickups so comparing is quite difficult bit SDs tend to be slightly warmer. And can be used passive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IncX Posted April 29, 2009 Author Share Posted April 29, 2009 ive decided and i have sent my request to the luthier... so here are the specs: -34" neck 4 string -wenge neck and fretboard -bubinga body -hipshot ultralite tuners -KAHLER TREMOLO (*lol*) -EMG P/J active PUPs -Seymour Duncan Pre-amp -carved top -chinese character abalone "Teh" inlays with side dots -ritter bolt system not much of a unique custom... but oh well, the unique customs really are expensive with not much tonal differences from "simple" wood... its really too bad i dont have that luxury Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IncX Posted April 29, 2009 Author Share Posted April 29, 2009 i also added fanned frets... i realized it actually helps me big time when i go into higher notes ... i guess im going with it for the comfort more than the added tension.... i also noticed this bass doesnt have a mono bridge system: [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLi8pOa6zYk"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLi8pOa6zYk[/url] so im thinking itll be fine with a Kahler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh3184 Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 but fanned frets usually have a normal radiused fretboard- the torzal is special. I really don't think they'll work together IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IncX Posted April 29, 2009 Author Share Posted April 29, 2009 oh... i thought the torzal is the same as fanned frets... oh well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh3184 Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=42663&hl=dingwall"]this[/url] is a fanned fret bass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soopercrip Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 Snakewood supplier. [url="http://www.gilmerwood.com/boards_snakewood_unique.htm"]http://www.gilmerwood.com/boards_snakewood_unique.htm[/url] Check out some of their camphor burls and purpleheart for fingerboards Some stunning stuff :wacko: (wipes away drool) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IncX Posted April 29, 2009 Author Share Posted April 29, 2009 [quote name='soopercrip' post='475225' date='Apr 29 2009, 04:36 PM']Snakewood supplier. [url="http://www.gilmerwood.com/boards_snakewood_unique.htm"]http://www.gilmerwood.com/boards_snakewood_unique.htm[/url] Check out some of their camphor burls and purpleheart for fingerboards Some stunning stuff :wacko: (wipes away drool)[/quote] you are evil and GAS inducing... im over $2,200 already... and with the stuff that i just saw... it just might reach the $3K mark *lol* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRedX Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 There are only 2 ways you are going to be able to have fanned frets and a trem system. 1. Set the 'zero' point for the fanning at the bridge rather than somewhere between the 12th and 7th frets as is usual. However you might find that it puts too much of a slant on frets at the nut end of the neck. BTW what scale lengths are you going for for your lowest and highest strings and what will the tuning be? 2. Have a custom made bridge trem bridge that incorporates the steps to accommodate the fanning. No idea of the price but expect it to be lots. If anyone can do it I would suggest you get in touch with [url="http://www.playtremologic.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=60&Itemid=83"]TremoLogic[/url] and see what you say about the feasibility. And finally a couple of overall observations about the specs for your bass. Firstly unless you're going lower than B I wouldn't bother with the fanning unless you're already very familiar with playing fanned frets to the extent where playing a standard bass is uncomfortable. While adapting to a fanned fret instrument is surprisingly quick (it took me less than a minute the first time I played one) the benefits of the definition of the low B string can be achieved by building a 34" scale neck appropriately. Which brings me on to woods. I wouldn't get too precious about the exact woods used, unless you're after a particular figure wood for the top/back. Let your luthier pick everything else based in the sound and feel you want for your bass. That's what they should be good at after all. If they are unwilling or unable to guide you here then I would be looking for someone else to make the bass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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