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Samuel Burns

Peavey Cirrus... Trussrod nut stripped.

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So this bass came up for sale near me. It's an Indo, the seller has made clear that the nut is stripped from a professional.... He's asking 150€ (a lot) but I'm going to offer 70€. A luthier localy is asking for at least 350€ without having even seen the bass, so I figured I'd shave the damaged alloy with a dremel and free the cavity then get a replacement screw with an allen head, use loctite or the likes and glue it in place tight. Now this is a dual action rod, which as I've found out, is welded to the nut. I have seen loctite holding many kilos of torque on cars, but I'm not sure wether something like this is possible. I've gotten mixed opinions on FB from luthiers, but thought I might ask the commnunity as well.

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Loctite is a brand rather than a product - I presume you meant something like their epoxy metal putty? Regardless, that plan probably wouldn’t work very well. Gluing it straight and correctly wouldn’t be easy with such limited access. And to create access would make a mess. Even if you did manage to get it to bond successfully, I’d be concerned about it holding up long term.

As it’s a double action rod, the only real guaranteed option is fretboard removal. Which really isn’t that big of a deal for someone with experience. Whip off fretboard, replace truss rod, glue back up and bam! But it would cost at least as much as the bass.

Theres a slim possibility the truss rod could be pulled out through the access at the headstock. But it’d depend on the type of rod they used. You could try that first though. 

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Posted (edited)

@Manton Customs

How would I go about pulling the truss rod? I know for sure that the nut is welded onto the rod and it is encased Inside a cylinder if that helps.

Edited by Samuel Burns

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Posted (edited)

You say the nut is stripped, do you mean that the Hex part of the truss rod nut Allen socket is rounded?  If that is the case then epoxying an Allen socket cap into the damaged socket might work.  If you mean that the the truss rod nut just turns and nothing happens then @Manton Customs have given you the best ways forward. 

Extracting the truss rod requires "Lady Luck" being on your side.  If the truss rod was welded 'cleanly, and /or the welds were ground smooth, and the truss rod slot is not tight, and the end of the rod is not wider than truss rod channel, the and the rod is sufficiently flexible, and the slot in the headstock is long enough then you might be able to grasp the rod with suitable long nose pliers and pull it out.  You could get a garage to 'stud weld' a body pulling wire onto it and then extract it using a car body puller.

There is one last scenario where you might get lucky.  Low tension strings and the neck relief sets up ok without any adjustment needed :)

 

Edited by 3below

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With just the hex slot being rounded I would try the Stewmac tool (Or the diy version filed Allen key) first. Another variant is a flat blade screwdriver of suitable width inserted across the 'corners' of the hex slot.  It may have sufficient 'grip'. You may need to file the screwdriver blade to size. 

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Another potentially jammy solution is to try the equivalent sized torx driver in there. Worked for me one time with a stripped hex - the points of the torx reached parts the hex key couldn't reach and turned it. 

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5 hours ago, neepheid said:

Another potentially jammy solution is to try the equivalent sized torx driver in there. Worked for me one time with a stripped hex - the points of the torx reached parts the hex key couldn't reach and turned it. 

This.

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