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OK, I don't think it is going to be a fireman, and I haven't really got any plans yet other than the vaguest of ideas.

The only things I do know is that it is almost certainly going to be 32" scale, a 5 string with 17mm string spacing at the bridge and it is going to be using this:

IMG_4883.thumb.jpg.8e0cd8a1d1e72dcdb698ef040fcb203b.jpg

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Nice set of direct pull tuners.

I'm thinking that that separated bridge set would lend itself to a sort of re-capitated headless.  Combined with 34" scale DBEs strung through the body you could put the tuners on a mini-headstock.

I'm not sure how it would work out, maybe you'd end up with less than 32" useable scale?  The weight of the tuner block might cause neck dive also.

Looking forward to your ideas unfolding.

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That is an interesting idea, but i think the weight of the neck would be very neck divey.

I didn't get a head block for it so I figured I would make something with screw terminals so it doesn't have to be double ball ends. But I quite like the bits they do on status basses, where there is a bit of a blank area at the top.

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5 minutes ago, Woodinblack said:

That is an interesting idea, but i think the weight of the neck would be very neck divey.

I didn't get a head block for it so I figured I would make something with screw terminals so it doesn't have to be double ball ends. But I quite like the bits they do on status basses, where there is a bit of a blank area at the top.

Are you considering maybe a bend well?

image.png.301243346b2ee89cb342d097bfc6b502.png

Edited by SpondonBassed
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4 hours ago, SpondonBassed said:

Are you considering maybe a bend well?

image.png.301243346b2ee89cb342d097bfc6b502.png

Yes, thats the sort of thing I was thinking of.

Having said that, I have no idea why as I never bend the strings past the bridge anyway :D

 

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9 hours ago, Woodinblack said:

Not sure on either a clamp or individual screw connections

Both?  I think belt and braces might be appropriate if only to make it possible to change an individual string without displacing the others.

Clamps that cover two or more strings at a time would be the secondary grip with individual internal wrenching machine screws holding each string tail.

Whether you choose clamps, set screws or both; I recommend Torx screw heads for accuracy and durability.  Allen headed screws are often used but they haven't a great reputation where they get used over and over.

It's the keys that usually cause problems.  Unless you can guarantee that a well made and snug fitting key is used exclusively, you will eventually cam out with one causing damage to the screw head.  If it's severe enough the damage will make it necessary to drill out the screw.  Torx keys drive from the flank and they're usually made to tighter tolerances than Allen keys.  You can get flank drive Allen keys but can you guarantee that they are the only keys that will be used?

The illustration below shows the difference between point and flank drive for bolt heads.  It is the same principle when applied to internal wrenching screw heads.

image.png.238f02f5042fc61d6c6ec60105e67bda.png

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7 hours ago, SpondonBassed said:

Whether you choose clamps, set screws or both; I recommend Torx screw heads for accuracy and durability.  Allen headed screws are often used but they haven't a great reputation where they get used over and over.

 

Sounds like good advice yes, I would have probably used allen screws. 

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