hookys6stringbass Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 I want to get a few bits together before I start my next project... I'll be doing some routing on a Precision bass...nothing major, but was wondering if anybody could recommend a decent router...hand held or otherwise. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Ian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 The key to accurate routing imho are the templates. I make an initial template from 6mm MDF and hand sand it to shape, which may be enough if you're doing some edge routing. If I need to plunge into the body, I'll use the thin template to make a thicker one. There are lots of different types of router bits, but the useful ones here are the ones with a bearing fitted to either the top or bottom of the bit, that you use to follow the template. I have had pretty good results with my little De Walt router. Any will do really as long as it has a standard 1/4" collet. A reasonable depth stop is essential for this kind of work and the ability to fit a side fence is handy. Take great care though. Routers can be very dangerous tools. Make sure that your template won't slip (double sided tape). Practice on scrap wood first. Wear eye protection and a dust mask (MDF and lots of types of wood dust is harmful) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabba_the_gut Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 (edited) I think Norris sums it up - the key is decent, accurate templates that are securely clamped in place and have been tested on scrap first! I have a basic Black and Decker router that cost less than £50 and I get some very accurate results. The pictures on here for my current build were done with that router. Like Norris, my templates are just made from mdf. And I completely agree from the safety perspective. Cheers Jez Edited November 10, 2015 by Jabba_the_gut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hookys6stringbass Posted November 10, 2015 Author Share Posted November 10, 2015 Thanks guys that's very helpful... Jez I'll check out your build.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 Also, if you're after a nice smooth curve, sometimes your fingers are better than your eyes. Get your 6mm template right and everything else will be. Don't be afraid to re-make it if it's not right the first time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hookys6stringbass Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 I've been looking at Dremmel tools and they look pretty decent for what I need it for...which is to open the pick up rout so I can reverse the pick ups... doing this will give me the option to swap back if needs be... Would like to have a go at making the pickguard any suggestions??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 The Dremmel plunge router is cheap but apparently quite flimsy for any accurate routing. The StewMac (Stewart Mcdonald - US based luthier supplies) ones are supposed to be a lot better. There is another Dremmel product that is apparently better but it's a full routing tool as opposed to a multi-tool attachment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPJ Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Any 1/4" collet router should do, but steer clear of the ultra-cheap ones, you know the saying, you get what you pay for! I echo everything said about templates, and no matter how small the cut, avoid the temptation to freehand as routers can and do 'bite' into wood and before you can react, the damage is done. Good quality double sided tape is excellent for securing templates, especially when clamps would obstruct the router. Other than that, the quality of the cutter is important if you want clean 'burn free' routs. Finally, practice on scrap first until you get used to the direction of cut (yes, a router cuts in one direction) and don't try to remove too much material in one pass, as this almost always results in the router biting or kicking with disastrous results. Quick word on health and safety - make sure your workpiece is either clamped down or on a non-slip pad, wear goggles or glasses, and I'd also recommend ear protection as they are quite loud. If you have long hair, tie it back because you invariably end up leaning over the router 'to get a better look'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPJ Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 [quote name='hookys6stringbass' timestamp='1447247464' post='2906064'] Would like to have a go at making the pickguard any suggestions??? [/quote] I've had mixed results using a router to make scratch plates. My current technique is to stick the scratch plate material to an MDF template using double-sided tape and then use an edge trimming cutter with the bearing on the bottom. Experience has taught me to rough out the shape of the scratch plate first with a fret saw so the router is only removing the last 2-3mm. Also, I've found that its best to trim to shape and cut the chamfer in one pass using a 45 degree cutter with a bearing on the bottom. Word of warning though, the router will not only cut the plastic but melt it also, and be prepared for an unbelievable amount of swarf in the form of small electrically-charged chips which stick to everything like those annoying little polystyrene balls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabba_the_gut Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 (edited) Agree with both Norris and JPJ again. I have a Dremel router and they aren't the most accurate of tools. It has some uses but only for very light work - I've used it for block inlays and it would flex even at that. I recently modified a 4 string Music man scratch plate into a 5 string one using an mdf template and 1/4" router template cutter and it turned out very nicely. I made a template from clear perspective once and that melted using a template cutter causing me to cut into the neck I was making - learnt a lesson about plastic and routers that day..... Edited November 11, 2015 by Jabba_the_gut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlungerModerno Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 Routers are an excellent tool in the right hands - but need to be treated with care. For all routing being done in wood I would advise removal of the majority of the waste by drill, bandsaw, or other means before using a router. It saves the bits, and often gives you off-cuts to practice on (important if you havn't routed the wood before (especially true with difficult grains) Router bit selection is also key - a major cost if you are to be doing a variety of routing. Also the dust is not to be trifled with. For small one-off jobs I tend to use hand tools - Partly as a cost saving, but mainly as I hate making a guide/template I suspect I'll never use again, and of course setting up (with power tools etc) unless there's the volume of work to be done to justify the prepwork beforehand and the cleanup afterwards! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 Yes, sometimes you can spend hours preparing for a 30 second routing session. It depends how neat you want it to turn out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hookys6stringbass Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 Thanks for all the advice guys...brilliant stuff (bloody love bass chat! ) I was just thinking... How would the experts amongst you do what I want to do... ie enlarging the pick up rout on a precision bass so I can reverse the pick ups... I would like it nice and neat and will take my time to get it so ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 Are you wanting to place the E/A half of the pickup the bridge side of the D/G half? If so I'd probably make the hole rectangular and then make a pair of holders for each of the configurations so that it's a slot in module. Are you intending to refinish the bass? It might be awkward to avoid disturbing the existing finish - you're bound to get a few chips. It won't be so much of a problem if you're using a scratchplate, I'd probably chamfer the edge surrounding the "module" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hookys6stringbass Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 [quote name='Norris' timestamp='1447326872' post='2906673'] Are you wanting to place the E/A half of the pickup the bridge side of the D/G half? If so I'd probably make the hole rectangular and then make a pair of holders for each of the configurations so that it's a slot in module. Are you intending to refinish the bass? It might be awkward to avoid disturbing the existing finish - you're bound to get a few chips. It won't be so much of a problem if you're using a scratchplate, I'd probably chamfer the edge surrounding the "module" [/quote] Yes that's right, the EA side moved towards the bridge...think Yamaha BB1200.. I was thinking rectangular as well for that very same reason. Definitely using a scratchplate... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 You could always butcher a second pickup so you have two D/G halves and switch between them. Alternatively something like a 4-coil split Bartolini pickup might do the job. Just throwing some alternatives into the mix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hookys6stringbass Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 [quote name='Norris' timestamp='1447329091' post='2906706'] You could always butcher a second pickup so you have two D/G halves and switch between them. Alternatively something like a 4-coil split Bartolini pickup might do the job. Just throwing some alternatives into the mix [/quote] Not a bad idea...but I'm going to stick with the original plan... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6v6 Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 For routing rectangular holes, it's actually very easy to make a template - my approach is to take a scrap of MDF/ply, carefully mark out the rectangle with a set-square, then use offcuts of pine batten temporarily screwed in to the side where you marked the hole. Then you drill a hole with a spade drill through the waste, run a jigsaw (carefully) around well inside the lines/battens, and drop a flush-trim (bearing on the bottom) router bit through to trim perfectly up to the battens, nice and square with rounded corners (same radius as the router bit). Seems obvious now, but it took me a few tries to figure out this as the easiest approach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hookys6stringbass Posted November 13, 2015 Author Share Posted November 13, 2015 [quote name='6v6' timestamp='1447421525' post='2907546'] For routing rectangular holes, it's actually very easy to make a template - my approach is to take a scrap of MDF/ply, carefully mark out the rectangle with a set-square, then use offcuts of pine batten temporarily screwed in to the side where you marked the hole. Then you drill a hole with a spade drill through the waste, run a jigsaw (carefully) around well inside the lines/battens, and drop a flush-trim (bearing on the bottom) router bit through to trim perfectly up to the battens, nice and square with rounded corners (same radius as the router bit). Seems obvious now, but it took me a few tries to figure out this as the easiest approach. [/quote] Great idea... I may well use this way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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