Fionn Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 (edited) It seems to me, from what I have gathered looking on various forums, that truss rod issues are not uncommon with older Warwicks. I'll add my experience to the body of internet woes incase it reduces the stress of some future bassist who may encounter a similar problem. I recently bought a 1987 Streamer Stage1. When playing I noticed a faint buzzing/ odd vibration on some notes above the 12th fret. This, and an unwanted subsiduary harmonic tone when playing standard harmonics. The action and set-up seemed good, but I immediately checked for the usual suspects ... fret buzz, bridge saddles, springs, screws, other hardware which might have have been loose. Then, when knocking on the back of the neck I heard that something was loose in there. The truss rod, obviously. I was a bit confused. I didn't think the truss rod needed tightening as the neck was [i]almost [/i]ideally set ... 0.7mm at the 7th fret when holding the string down upon the first and last frets (testament to the stiffness of wenge-necked Warwicks). The truss rod was completely loose though. It turned freely to slacken, yet wouldn't tighten a notch, it was seized in that direction. So I removed the truss rod. This is very easy for basses made between 1982 - 1996. There's a Warwick video that will show you how ... [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xT_iDrcLtKY[/media] To my relief the truss rod was fine (it's the one way alloy truss rod). No cracks or breaks, and the thread on both the nut and the truss rod its self were in perfect order. Great! I ordered a 50g tube of silicone grease for £4.50 here ... [url="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Servisol-Silicone-Grease-50G/dp/B000L97ZPI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1359291821&sr=8-1"]http://www.amazon.co...59291821&sr=8-1[/url] So, when this arrived I spread it liberally on the truss, all the way to the ends, and between the bars. Inserted the rod (thead side down), wiped away the excess grease, tightened the truss rod, and gave her a proper set-up. Perfect ... no vibration, perfectly adjustable and responsive truss rod. Great action, sweet bass. Hope this helps somebody. Edited January 27, 2013 by Fionn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fionn Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 I read folk suggesting that to remove the truss rod, you should hold the bass upside down and hit the headstock on the floor whilst hitting the back of the neck with your hand. Don't do this, it's completely unnecessary. What's worse is that I also heard examples of fretboards being removed from 1982 - 1996 Warwicks for the same purpose ... crazy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mart Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 That rattling is probably why they moved away from replaceable trussrods. Good job that you fixed it so easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettsguitars Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Good stuff. A truss rod should never be loose and knocking on the back of the neck is the way to tell if one is. It would be interesting if everyone who reads this has a knock on their neck. Lets see how many loose rods are out there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettsguitars Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 I will say that in theory this is the way to remove an un anchored rod. However it isn't always such a simple affair. The way that rod comes out is like a fairy tale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiMarco Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Been there done that. Replacing these rods is easy as 1-2-3. Finding silicone grease that is sturdy enough is the hardest part really. 1. Pull old rod out with pliers. If the rod seems stuck help it along by gently pulling the neck back some. Should slide right out. 2. Lube up the rod you're gonna use with Silicone grease, also needs grease in between the two metal parts not just on the outside! (mine was b0rked so I replaced it with a new one). Shove it back in gently, All the tools needed, a bog roll and pliers being the most important. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettsguitars Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 So why did you need to replace it out of interest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mart Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Err... [quote name='DiMarco' timestamp='1359403650' post='1954303']....(mine was b0rked so I replaced it with a new one).... [/quote] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettsguitars Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Fair enough. What is it with Warwicks and truss rods today? (another thread) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeFRC Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 [quote name='lettsguitars' timestamp='1359406899' post='1954379'] Fair enough. What is it with Warwicks and truss rods today? (another thread) [/quote] what today as in this day, or today as in the ones they are making at the moment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettsguitars Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 This day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiMarco Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 I got a bass off ebay which had been stored in a damp area for years. Fungus growing on the fretboard, metal parts all corroded. Replaced all hardware including the rusty trussrod, bridge, tuners, knobs etc. I was lucky the electronics still worked. Who on earth would let a 5000 euro instrument rot away like that? Some people... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lfalex v1.1 Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 [quote name='DiMarco' timestamp='1359415539' post='1954570'] Some people... [/quote] Like me, have acidic sweat that'd give Xenomorph blood a run for it's money. I can't have unlacquered brass on anything. Nickel, Chrome and Gold hardware are a no-no, and all but stainless frets will end up looking like they're made from a copper church roof. Christ, it's even reacted badly with the (phenolic) fretboard on my Status! I can clean and dry everything after playing, but it only delays the inevitable! So it's black hardware and Elixirs / DRs for me all the way. Never bust a T-Rod, though.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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