Help identifying mains plug

[barkin]

Hi all,

I've somehow managed to break the mains plug for an old Carlsbro TC60 amp, and I'm struggling to find a replacement

I could replace the whole thing with a modern IEC connector, but I'd rather keep it original if possible and not have to faff around drilling the chassis etc.

So, can anybody ID the connector in the pic below ? If I knew what it was called I might have a something to search for.

[attachment=76809:IMAG0040.jpg]

The keyed part of the moulding is 22mm diameter, the holes that receive the pins in the chassis end are 10mm between centres, and the whole thing's 15mm long. If possible, I'd prefer one with the cable entry inline, rather than right angled like the one in the picture.

cheers,

[obbm]

[quote name='barkin' post='1190626' date='Apr 6 2011, 04:03 PM']Hi all,

I've somehow managed to break the mains plug for an old Carlsbro TC60 amp, and I'm struggling to find a replacement

I could replace the whole thing with a modern IEC connector, but I'd rather keep it original if possible and not have to faff around drilling the chassis etc.

So, can anybody ID the connector in the pic below ? If I knew what it was called I might have a something to search for.

[attachment=76809:IMAG0040.jpg]

The keyed part of the moulding is 22mm diameter, the holes that receive the pins in the chassis end are 10mm between centres, and the whole thing's 15mm long. If possible, I'd prefer one with the cable entry inline, rather than right angled like the one in the picture.

cheers,[/quote]

That's a British-made Bulgin connector as used on many amps for many years. They do not comply with current safety standards as the inside of the chassis-mounted version has exposed terminals. You can still find them on Ebay however if you plan to use the amp regularly then you would be advised to change it to an IEC or fit a captive mains lead.

Edited April 6, 2011 by obbm

[Quoth'd]

I second that.

Better to be safe than fried & if you ever want to use it somewhere that takes their electrical equipment seriously (PAT testing etc) then they'll not touch it/let you plug it in.

I'd go with the IEC connector (personal choice) just because I could remove the cable for transport and/or have a couple of different lengths dependign on where I was going to be using it (love fighting for those sockets)

There's my 2p worth

[flyfisher]

Blimey - I haven't seen one of those for a while. I definitely second the safety concerns.

In fact many years ago when I was about 15 (er, early sevCOUGHenties) and didn't really know any better, I built a 100W PA amp from some modules and thought it would be a good idea to have a spearate mains lead. At that time, as pointed out above, these Bulgin connectors were fairly common so that's what I used. Except I got the 'sex' of the two connectors the wrong way around (well, 15 can be a confusing time of life ) and bought a female chassis socket and a male cable plug.

Anyway, it was more-or-less safe as long as the mains cable was plugged into the amp before the 13A plug was plugged into the mains, but if it was done the other way around then the other end of the cable had about 240Vac across the [u]very exposed[/u] prongs of the Bulgin plug - as I once found out.

Happy days!

[barkin]

Thanks folks - off to get a replacement IEC connector tomorrow.

[robocorpse]

Ive got some NOS Bulgins somewhere if you want to keep the amp original...

[Bloodaxe]

[quote name='barkin' post='1192381' date='Apr 7 2011, 10:46 PM']Thanks folks - off to get a replacement IEC connector tomorrow.[/quote]
Wise move.

I had a couple of Bulgin-fitted amps, & my biggest concern was that there was bugger all strain relief and NO cable clamp - so the only thing securing the wiring was the terminal screw blocks. Oh, and the fact that the housing was made of Bakelite which would chip/break/shatter if you looked at it in a funny way.

Absolutely appalling design.

[robocorpse]

[quote name='Bloodaxe' post='1192802' date='Apr 8 2011, 12:45 PM']Wise move.

I had a couple of Bulgin-fitted amps, & my biggest concern was that there was bugger all strain relief and NO cable clamp - so the only thing securing the wiring was the terminal screw blocks. Oh, and the fact that the housing was made of Bakelite which would chip/break/shatter if you looked at it in a funny way.

Absolutely appalling design.[/quote]

Agreed, but it adds at least 100 quid to the value of any 60s/70s Marshall...
If you wanna keep it original, take the wooden back panel off, replace it with a home made one with an IEC plug added to it and wire it into circuit, then desolder the Bulgin.
That way the amp conforms to most regs, will pass a PAT test, and its able to be put back to original spec when you sell it further down the line.

[Bloodaxe]

[quote name='robocorpse' post='1192804' date='Apr 8 2011, 12:49 PM']Agreed, but it adds at least 100 quid to the value of any 60s/70s Marshall...
If you wanna keep it original, take the wooden back panel off, replace it with a home made one with an IEC plug added to it and wire it into circuit, then desolder the Bulgin.
That way the amp conforms to most regs, will pass a PAT test, and its able to be put back to original spec when you sell it further down the line.[/quote]
Good compromise. My old 69 Marshall still had its when I flogged it & I can't see my Axis NH-100 being worth a lot (especially with the chassis mods its had) so I'm not over bothered on that one.

That said, I've just had a look at the Axis & at first glance it looks as though the IEC plug fits through the original hole & the bite mark from the Bulgin's flange looks like it'd cover the holes for the IEC.

The OP's is a Carlsboro... not the most collectable of amps, I'd dare to venture.

[robocorpse]

Dunno, some of the valve Carlsbro heads were fetching good money, I got 650 for a late 60s one a couple of years ago. A clean TC60 is worth 300+ all day long.

[Mr. Foxen]

[quote name='robocorpse' post='1193156' date='Apr 8 2011, 06:40 PM']Dunno, some of the valve Carlsbro heads were fetching good money, I got 650 for a late 60s one a couple of years ago. A clean TC60 is worth 300+ all day long.[/quote]

Carlsbros are up and coming, now the others have all gone silly price, and they are well made as most amps of the period. People carving them up and converting to Marshall spec will continue the upward trend.

[Slipperydick]

There were 2 sizes of Bulgin 3 pin.

Might be the photo, but that looks like the smaller one to me, and not the one that was fitted to Marshalls.

I think there is a moulded mains lead still available that will fit, much safer than a bakelite one, which as has been said, had no effective chord grip and no strain relief. Being bakelite they had a tendency to go electrically 'leaky' as well. Put close to your nose a dodgy one has a very distinctive smell, Pull the mains plug first though.

Have to agree, much safer to fit an IEC type.

[barkin]

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='1193165' date='Apr 8 2011, 06:51 PM']Carlsbros are up and coming, now the others have all gone silly price, and they are well made as most amps of the period. People carving them up and converting to Marshall spec will continue the upward trend.[/quote]

Mmm...I shan't be mod'ing mine. I've used it (for bass...) at small pub gigs with a 1x15 Acoustic 404, and it sounds just gorgeous as it is !

300 quid? Really ?

There seems to be a few models that were called the TC60.
Mine's very similar to the one at [url="http://www.gearfreak.dk/_publicpics/reviews/375_CE1ADD2A92E04F3B9CC924EA3398448.jpg"]http://www.gearfreak.dk/_publicpics/review...24EA3398448.jpg[/url] although the printing on the fascia of mine is different.

Not that I'm planning on selling it...