Mr. Foxen Posted September 23, 2010 Author Share Posted September 23, 2010 The wire wool bits have been a pain actually, wiped them off with a cloth, but worried they might react and give a rusty colour or something as it dries. Reckon next oil coat on with a cloth, build up a couple then polish down with wire wool again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassBod Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 Sounds good! Best give the oil a nice long time to dry. I over did a J bass body once, and it took about a week before the oil kept re-appearing in blotches...got there in the end. Thats the great thing about oil finishes - very forgiving and repairable later. Looking forward to seeing the final results... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted September 23, 2010 Author Share Posted September 23, 2010 Hmm, white spirit fumes have done some good headache + fall asleep with weird dreams to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted September 25, 2010 Author Share Posted September 25, 2010 Bit of a disaster: Figured now there are a couple of coats of oil on the front, if I skim over it with 1000 grit wet and dry, lubricated with oil/white spirit, it will give more of a shine to it. Hover, it actually filled in the pores with dark grey abrasive. Gah. Gone over with a scourer and white spirit and it hasn't lifted. Am I going to have to block it all down again? Its only a narrow band across the top horn, oil is handy for being able to patch it, but still, far from ideal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted September 27, 2010 Author Share Posted September 27, 2010 Oil on, gonna do a few more coats I think, then its waiting for new bridge ot be cast and having new plates cut out: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watton_earth Posted October 8, 2010 Share Posted October 8, 2010 Hi, Do you want the original TRC with the CMI logo in gold / black outline for your project? Probably look nicer on a natural wood bass. Regards watton_earth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted October 8, 2010 Author Share Posted October 8, 2010 The truss is one of the few decent original bits with this, so I'm keeping that on here. Cheers for the offer, make mention in the Rickenfakers thread, and someone might have it to restore their CMI that someone has stuck a crappy Rickenbacker badge on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 A day in my Dad's workshop and I have a straightish bridge (shame about the woodwork it goes on being curved), and a brass pickup surround and truss cover. Not sure which I'll be keeping on it. Pics to come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joegarcia Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 [quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='992418' date='Oct 18 2010, 04:42 PM']A day in my Dad's workshop and I have a straightish bridge (shame about the woodwork it goes on being curved), and a brass pickup surround and truss cover. Not sure which I'll be keeping on it. Pics to come.[/quote] Sounds interesting, I'll put the camera on charge then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delberthot Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 A common fix for the all too common Rick tail lift, even on the real ones, was to have 2 extra screws at the tail end of the bridge into the body. I was trying to find pics of it now but can't There'll be loads on the Rickresource somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted October 19, 2010 Author Share Posted October 19, 2010 Put the necessary parts on to string it up, missing a bridge saddle as it is with the chap making them (hit me up if you want brass saddles for your bass that happens to be shaped like this one). I made a brass pickup surround too, but didn't much like the look next to the chrome bridge (working on addressing this) so I stuck the original surround on top, so no finger gap still. Brass is all unpolished, because it fits better with the beat-upness of the bass. I also made a brass truss cover, although I was a bit overcautious with the leaving space for filing, and it is oversized: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted November 1, 2010 Author Share Posted November 1, 2010 Bah, new setback, sorting the wiring, realised I had forgotten to replace the earth wire under the bridge. So I unscrew the bridge and two of the screw heads just shear off. Not entirely sure where to go from there. Considering getting it under the pillar drill, drilling them out and putting inserts in, and machine screwing it. Tone transfer. The switching jack looks like a breaking waiting to happen, so I decided to wire it straight 'stereo', and the tone on the bridge pickup is a bass cut rather than a treble cut,s o it can go to guitar amp and be somewhat adjusted to suit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted November 18, 2010 Author Share Posted November 18, 2010 All together and working. Still got to make a new scratchplate, is being a nutpain due to being a different shape to everything else, as well as being misaligned. Reckon it will come to practice tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted December 4, 2010 Author Share Posted December 4, 2010 Heres the blank casting for the uprated bridge, the weak spots are reinforced and it is cast from LM25 aluminium, so it is a whole lot tougher, this is the stuff used for aircraft parts. Next thing is machining the slots and drilling holes, then polishing and finishing. I'm going to do a batch of these, when they are done, info should appear in the affiliates forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashley699 Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 Hi, This looks brilliant back to the wood, this guitar has a really nice grain to it and it shows up well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watton_earth Posted January 7, 2011 Share Posted January 7, 2011 Hi, out of curiosity...How is your bass's Truss Rod adjusted? Is there a Hexagonal bolt/screw in the neck, or in the body? Mine has a bullet shaped Truss rod end in the neck, and nothing at the body. Erm? watton_earth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted January 7, 2011 Author Share Posted January 7, 2011 Nut type thing at the headstock end. Is pretty choked with paint and not had need to adjust to left alone. Just done a black powder coated steel scratchplate for a mates Rick, totally forgot to take pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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