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Can someone help me get rid of the greasebucket tone circuit


dave_bass5
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My HW-one is due tomorrow and while i know the tone will work for me i would prefer to have a normal tone where the low end does increase a bit.

While i know im more than capable of doing the mod, im not sure what needs to be done, other than the caps need to go and be replaced with a single one.

So, if anyone can guide me to exactly what i need to buy (never brought a cap before) and how to re arrange the wiring that would be great.

If its worth me just buying a new tone pot please can you point me to the exact one i need.


This is all new to me. Ive changed pups before but its always been a like for like swap so never needed thinking about.

Cheers.

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[quote name='dave_bass5' post='937090' date='Aug 26 2010, 01:09 PM']My HW-one is due tomorrow and while i know the tone will work for me i would prefer to have a normal tone where the low end does increase a bit.

While i know im more than capable of doing the mod, im not sure what needs to be done, other than the caps need to go and be replaced with a single one.

So, if anyone can guide me to exactly what i need to buy (never brought a cap before) and how to re arrange the wiring that would be great.

If its worth me just buying a new tone pot please can you point me to the exact one i need.


This is all new to me. Ive changed pups before but its always been a like for like swap so never needed thinking about.

Cheers.[/quote]

Fender circuit diagrams and parts lists can be found here - [url="http://www.fender.com/support/wiring_diagrams_parts_lists.php"]http://www.fender.com/support/wiring_diagr...parts_lists.php[/url]. Just scroll down until you hit the HW1.

As far as I can see the greasebucket circuit just adds a metal film resistor in series with the cap. The cap is in the usual position so if it's 0.047mf then it should be as easy as removing the resistor. Otherwise remove the cap/resister completely and just replace with a 0.047mf cap.

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I'd give it a chance (unless you've already heard it and hated it) as it still removes the highs from the signal. but in such a way that it doesn't get muddy.

If you're looking for that particular sound, then obviously replacing the cap/resistor with a single cap is the way to go - the Seymour Duncan site is, as always, good for a clear diagram of what to do.

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Cheers guys.

I will definitely give the bass a go first. I get it tomorrow and have gigs tomorrow and sat so i have no choice.

Ive not actually heard one yet, my old HW1 didnt have this but i did like the way it goes when the tone is all the way off. Saying that, i hardly use the tone knob anyway so maybe it wont be a problem.

As i said, ive never had ot do anything like this before so can you check this is the right cap. They also have the ceramic one.
[url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/Sprague_%27Orange_Drop%27_0.047_Capacitor_.047CAP-OD"]Orange Drop[/url]

Also, it might be easier if i replaced the tone pot. That way its less messy.
Anyone know if this is ok?
[url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/Premium_250k_Solid_Shaft_Pot_10%25_Tolerance_CTS250SS"]CTS pot[/url]

Thanks again for any help.

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[quote name='dave_bass5' post='937346' date='Aug 26 2010, 05:24 PM']Cheers guys.

I will definitely give the bass a go first. I get it tomorrow and have gigs tomorrow and sat so i have no choice.

Ive not actually heard one yet, my old HW1 didnt have this but i did like the way it goes when the tone is all the way off. Saying that, i hardly use the tone knob anyway so maybe it wont be a problem.

As i said, ive never had ot do anything like this before so can you check this is the right cap. They also have the ceramic one.
[url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/Sprague_%27Orange_Drop%27_0.047_Capacitor_.047CAP-OD"]Orange Drop[/url]

Also, it might be easier if i replaced the tone pot. That way its less messy.
Anyone know if this is ok?
[url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/Premium_250k_Solid_Shaft_Pot_10%25_Tolerance_CTS250SS"]CTS pot[/url]

Thanks again for any help.[/quote]

Orange drop is fine as is CTS 250k pot but the one in your link is 'audio taper' whereas 'linear taper' is more normal for tone (audo taper for vol). I'm not sure that it makes that much difference but some more info on audio/linear tapers here - [url="http://music-electronics-forum.com/t1049/"]http://music-electronics-forum.com/t1049/[/url]

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[quote name='ikay' post='937381' date='Aug 26 2010, 06:07 PM']Orange drop is fine as is CTS 250k pot but the one in your link is 'audio taper' whereas 'linear taper' is more normal for tone (audo taper for vol). I'm not sure that it makes that much difference but some more info on audio/linear tapers here - [url="http://music-electronics-forum.com/t1049/"]http://music-electronics-forum.com/t1049/[/url][/quote]

Thanks for the link. Ill have a proper read of it later but i must admit im confused.
I read quite a few threads on Talkbass where everyone agreed a audio taper is standard for a jazz bass tone control.
Im in no position to argue with anyone but i think i need to look in to this a bit more first. It does seem like you can use either.

This thread sounds quite interesting as well.

[url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=671456&highlight=pot+shootout"]Tone pot shoot out.[/url]

Edited by dave_bass5
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[quote name='dave_bass5' post='937413' date='Aug 26 2010, 07:05 PM']Thanks for the link. Ill have a proper read of it later but i must admit im confused.
I read quite a few threads on Talkbass where everyone agreed a audio taper is standard for a jazz bass tone control.
Im in no position to argue with anyone but i think i need to look in to this a bit more first. It does seem like you can use either.

This thread sounds quite interesting as well.

[url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=671456&highlight=pot+shootout"]Tone pot shoot out.[/url][/quote]

Interesting link and I agree it is confusing. This extract from [color="#0000FF"]http://www.guitarelectronics.com/category/wiring_resources_guitar_wiring_diagrams.wiring_faqs/[/color] says that Fender use audio post for both vol and tone while Gibson use linear for both. If the tech gurus at Fender and Gibson can't agree what chance do we mere mortals have?!

[u]What is the difference between Audio and Linear taper pots? [/u]
Audio and Linear taper pots have the same total resistance but differ in which position of rotation the pot will reach the 50% value. Linear pots are usually marked with a B or Lin (examples 250KB, B250K, 250K Lin) and will reach 50% of its total resistance in the 50% rotation point. Audio taper pots are usually marked with an A or Aud (examples 500KA, A500K 500K Aud) and will decrease most of the resistance in the last 50% of the rotation. This can give a more gradual audio reduction is some cases. [b][color="#FF0000"]Some manufactures like Fender use Audio taper pots for both volume and tone controls. Gibson on the other hand uses linear taper pots for both volume and tone.[/color] [/b]And still others use Linar taper pots for volume and Audio taper pots for tone. However, if a problem of exists where a volume or tone pot has no effect on the sound, try a changing the taper. How to check the taper with an ohm meter: Set the pot to the center position (50% rotation) and measure the resistance between the center pin and each of the outer pins. If the the resistance is equal (50% of the pots value) the pot is linear. If the values are not equal, the pot is an Audio taper.

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Thanks very much for that explanation. It does help but it also makes me realise how much more is involved.

I think ill wait a while before doing anything now.

I do have an ohm meter so when i open the bass up ill have a check, just so i know whats what.

In general i do find that my tone knobs dont do a great deal until almost off, especially on Fender basses but then again, i hardly use the tone knob and when i do its more or less turned all the way off anyway so im sure it wont matter.

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