Bobby K

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='958326' date='Sep 16 2010, 02:05 PM']Sounds like a dodgy connection, you've got a +ve going to earth somewhere. Trace the route from your hot line from your pup all the way up to and including the jack socket. Luckily the wiring on a P is pretty simple.[/quote] Cheers mate, but it was a false alarm I was testing the bass through a guitar amp which unknown to me was cranked up to max volume!! All is normal now the amp has been adjusted, sorry for the panic

I finished the shielding job. Managed to sort out some braided wire to go through the hole. Soldered it all neatly to the copper. Passed the pickup wires through, resoldered to the pots etc and put the bass back together. Seems to be fine. Thanks to all who gave their advice

[quote name='Count Bassy' post='957222' date='Sep 15 2010, 02:24 PM']Re the braiding - yes use some braiding out of a good cable ('Woven' rather than wrapped around) - something out of a good microphone cabel etc would be good. After removing the braiding you'll find that it will narrow down as you stretch it, so you can poke it through the hole (depends how big the hole is), and then compress it end to end again to make it expand width ways again, against the sides of the hole. Then splay out the ends and solder to the copper foil. It is fiddly and a lot depends on the length and diameter of th hole. I've also considered using thin walled copper tube (like you get from modelling shops) to pass down the holes, but never actually don this.[/quote] Cheers Clive, your advice is much appreciated! Right, I'm pretty sure the pickup wires aren't screened. They're very thin and after all this is a re-issue of a 60's Precision, which I'm guessing wouldn't have screened wires?? So, I pretty much need to create a copper [i]tunnel[/i] from cavity to cavity I suppose. I'm not sure if I've got any cables handy that I can butcher to get the brading, but i've been considering some other ideas. I've had the crazy notion to cover a small plastic tube in the copper tape and cut it so it's just the right length for the hole and pass the wires through. I've also considered just wrapping the copper tape around the three wires and passing them through the hole, tacking more tape at both ends (in both cavities) and soldering to the copper cavity floor. What do you think of these ideas? Furthermore, is it feasible to join the cavities with tape over the top, as suggested by johnnylager? I've fully lined each cavity with the copper now; just need to drop some solder on the joins between the tape, then I'll be good to go with tackling the [i]copper tunnel[/i] to link the cavities. Any further guidance you can give on the above suggestions would be most appreciated

[quote name='Count Bassy' post='955635' date='Sep 14 2010, 01:27 AM']You could pass a bit of braided cable screen through the holes and expand it to fit, and then solder it to the copper screen at both ends if you wanted.[/quote] Is this the same as the outer mesh stuff you get on coaxial cable? When you say [i]expand it to fit[/i] how do I do that? Could I not just link the two cavities through the hole using a normal bit of insulated wire, soldered to the copper screen on both sides? Sorry for all the questions, we're nearly there now.... :blush:

[quote name='Count Bassy' post='955635' date='Sep 14 2010, 01:27 AM']and if possible line the drilled holes between cavities[/quote] What about the drilled hole for the ground wire that attaches to the underside of the bridge....? Do i simply just carefully apply the foil around this hole?

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='955061' date='Sep 13 2010, 05:19 PM']so you can leave an overhang out the top of the cavity and make sure that the copper on the underside of you p/g touches it. Simples.[/quote] Good man, that's exactly what I was thinking of doing; just needed somebody to confirm it was ok to do

[quote name='Hamster' post='955020' date='Sep 13 2010, 04:47 PM']You can take the ground from the back of one the pots or at the jack connector - but just make one earth connection, just use a bit of wire and solder onto the copper tape.[/quote] So just connect a bit of wire to the existing solder blob on top of one of the pots then? I assume you mean not to connect to [b]both[/b] back of pot and the jack connector..? (just do one or the other) Just wondering what sort of wire to use... Also, should the copper under the pickguard connect to the copper in the body cavities? (actually, just read your post again and I think I've got it) Cheers for your help by the way

Hello fellows I'm considering putting some copper shielding tape inside the cavities of my P bass. I'll be doing the underside of the pickguard too. I've read a lot on this topic and I think I pretty much know what I'm doing now. One thing that crops up regularly in the threads is that the copper tape has to be connected to [b]ground[/b] somehow. What is the best way/ways to do this? Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question, but I just wanna do it right

This item has now been sold

This is still available chaps, hence the bump....

[b]Hi guys I've got a flightcase that was made for my Trace Elliot series 6 1215 combo. Back in the 90's I got into the bad habit of transporting the amp around without its flightcase and it is now a bit worse for wear. It's now pointless me putting it in the flightcase any more so the case is now gathering dust and is surplus to requirements. This is a rock solid case that was custom made to fit the Trace amp like a glove. It's got battle scars but is still fully operational. Hopefully it is of use to somebody out there. The internal measurements are: 600mm (H) x 470mm (W) x 350mm (D) approx [/b]

Price dropped, therefore bump....

Yes, that was considered, but the beauty of having two basses there is that one of them can ultimately be a back-up anyway.

[quote name='BottomEndian' post='815022' date='Apr 22 2010, 02:47 PM']Spanner in the works here... what about a capo at the 2nd fret?[/quote] I did consider it, but abandoned the idea It's interesting that Johnny Marr was capo'd on the 2nd fret on loads of Smiths songs - perhaps one of the reasons why Andy was tuned up a whole step. I wonder if he ever considered the capo...

So the concensus seems to be lighter gauge is the way to go, to try and recreate the same amount of string tension as the standards. Cheers guys, i thought so

[quote name='Paul_C' post='814971' date='Apr 22 2010, 01:49 PM']F 38.7 / B 47.8 / E 44.5 / A 32.4[/quote] When you say "F" do you mean F#? (I'll be tuning the E string to F# after all...) (Actually, just looked at their charts and there is no F#)

Hello bass friends Just wanted to ask about a tuning issue. For future gigs I'm planning on having one of my two Precisions tuned up a whole step (in F# as it were) I'm normally using standard gauges (45-105) but am considering using a lighter gauge for the [i]tuned up[/i] bass, maybe 40's, or even 35's. What are the implications of tuning up a whole step, i[i]s it safe to do so[/i], with regard to the neck etc? I'm in a Smiths tribute. Andy Rourke was often tuned up a whole step on his bass, back in the heady days of The Smiths in the early/mid 80's. I've never bothered with this tuning before now but have discovered that it would make some of the lines a lot easier to play Any thoughts would be much appreciated....

Received my Classic Vibe Fiesta Red precision today..... Very impressed, to say the least. It's excellent quality for the money, no doubt about it! It's just as good, if not better than my MIJ '62 re-issue Precision, at first glance. The true test will obviously be when I gig it. For now though, it's made me a happy bunny! It's even set up really nicely Dunno yet if I'll upgrade the pups and wiring as others have, but i'm not ruling it out Cheers for a great thread guys!