Muppet

[quote name='The Burpster' post='20242' date='Jun 19 2007, 03:34 PM']Mup.
We'll have to have a meeting 'round a fire at midnight on a full mooon, running around naked, chant a few olde cantations, slay a few virgins and then debate wether or not you're worthy of Lincolnshire status.....[/quote]

We used to do that under the Stonebow on New Year's Eve.

Then the coppers wanted to join the party in 1988 and it was never the same since...

If you do get some I'd be interested to hear your views. It was on BW a while back that I was initially recommended them in the first place.

Great sound - Stingray and SWR Super Redhead. Not that I have either anymore.

[quote name='BigRedX' post='20170' date='Jun 19 2007, 01:32 PM']Are the Dangleberry ones exactly the same as the Schallers but with two nuts? I nearly got a set for the Pedulla Buzz I've just bought, but chickened out at the last moment and found some cheap(er) Schallers on eBay. From the photo it also seems that the screws are a bit shorter, one of the things I like about the Schallers is they don't mess about with fitting the button to the bass.[/quote]

In my experience they are directly compatible. I swap straps and guitars around all over the place - some have these some have Schallers - and they all fit perfectly. As far as screws go, I have no idea as ALL the screw supplied with all strap locks are just too short in my opinion and I replace them with better ones.

I thread lock (as opposed to thread sealant which is different) the Boston ones too though - better safe than sorry.

Steve

These are they, can be bought from [url="http://www.dangleberrymusic.co.uk/Items/bsl-sl?sck=9125019"]here[/url] You can clearly see what I mean about the double locking nuts.

Hi Clive

I prefer Boston straplocks for a few reasons

1. They're cheaper but still same quality as Schaller
2. They're compatible with the Schaller system
3. VERY IMPORTANT. They have two nuts on the shaft of the strap part as opposed to one. These act as locknuts. Schallers do not have this and unless you apply threadlock they tend to unscrew themselves over time, whereas the Boston ones do not.

cheers

Steve

[quote name='john_the_bass' post='20054' date='Jun 19 2007, 10:05 AM']but i can't say it's ever been a problem or something i thought needs addressing.[/quote]

You're lucky in that you always have in house PAs. If you have your own [vocal] PA and rely on your bass amp (and guitar and drums)for FOH sound then it's quite critical

[quote name='3V17C' post='20043' date='Jun 19 2007, 09:50 AM']found a strange little shop in Beccles of all places today - arts, crafts & guitars! sells homemade jewellry, pots etc but also has some 'vintage' guitars out the back...very strange.

anyway.... there was a nice Musicmaster in there, looked to have a fair bit of mojo, nicely aged, was a dark wood natural body (walnut?). no price on it but the rest of the stuff he had was reasonably priced.

maybe worth a look as its reasonably local to Naaarwich
peace

c[/quote]

Not sure I've ever seen a walnut Musicmaster, notto say that they didn't do them. Did he have any other secret beauties hidden away?

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='20041' date='Jun 19 2007, 09:46 AM']With 17 people on stage (including a percussionist) it was usually a case of sticking the amp where it fitted. However, having an angled 380w wedge combo made a huge difference to hearing myself compared to the 600w or so 2x 2x10 set up I had before.[/quote]

Steve- do you use it like a monitor i.e. facing you, or behind you as in the conventional sense?

I'd certainly try it. I buy a lot of smaller parts from basspartsresource.com. They ship via USPS (rather than UPS) and I have never been asked to pay any import duty so far.

[quote name='Cantdosleepy' post='19473' date='Jun 18 2007, 09:16 AM']I'm a left-hander playing right.

Why does it matter, though? Shurely you have to use both hands to play the bass, and they both need to be equally dextrous? I've never understood why you'd learn to play the rarer, more expensive instrument, when you need to train both hands from scratch anyway.

Just to be contrarian, like.[/quote]

It's the same principle that leads left handers to automatically hold golf clubs, cricket/baseball bats the opposite way round. One hand is the dominant controlling hand.

I take it that you're putting it through the 610? What setting have you got the horn on just out of curiosity?

Sounds really great apart from the fan. Post some pics with the cab when you've time if you can!

Can I be honourary member? I live in Lincoln for 20 years and me folks still live there?

Seeing Dave’s (dave_bass5) discussion on sitting his cab on a wooden floor with or without rubber feet and also the rear vs front ported cabs question on the Ashdown ABM115 thread I’m going to raise the question about how and where you should place your cab in;

a. In relation to the rest of your band
b. In relation to the room you are playing in

Thing I have been thinking about it whether the cab should be up against a wall, in a corner, in line with the kick drum, with or without casters etc, raised up on crates (!)….

Any good starting points to always bear in mind or any complete no-no's (like I was always told not to stick the bass amp behind the drummer...)

To be honest I think the fact that you have a SVT 806HE means that very few people are going to have tried this combination as the cab never sold very well and reasonably scarce.

I run a MAG 300 through a SVT610HLF as a backup rig and it's ok, but quite woolly. OK as a backup to my main amplifier (which is what I bought the Ashdown for) but I'd not have it as a rig of choice.

You did buy it from a dealer and not privately off ebay didn't you? It's straight replacement time in that case.

I don tend to keep the number of winds to a minimum. I find that the clarity and the tendency to stay in tune is enhanced. It's also important to get the right angle over the bridge and nut.

S

I've stripped and refinished a number of bass bodies and never seen one with knots in it like that, however, I have never come close to stripping something like a 60s bass body of any sort, so my experience is somewhat limited!

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='19577' date='Jun 18 2007, 12:55 PM']Thanks Steve.
sounds like the lead is rubbish then. if i get the system ill get Dave to make me up a shorter one.
The thing is with these gigs is that until the show starts i wont know what freq's are in use as its normally only us at sound check. I doubt there will be anyone in the function room with a system on while we are playing but im worried that i might come out of the PA in a room close by.[/quote]

The lead is defintely rubbish and Dave's is so much better.

As far as how things work, I would imagine it would end up with bot transmitting devices coming out of both receiving devices, or at least one interrupting the other. I don't think one would necessarily take priority over the other.

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='19551' date='Jun 18 2007, 12:05 PM']Guys
Im after getting a 172G2 system and i have a couple of questions for any owners.
The reason im getting one is because we are starting to get in to the holiday camps and at the last one there were 7 radio mics in operation so i couldn't use my fixed feq one.
How easy is it to find a clear freq using the 172? can i just leave it on auto and let it scan for a clear channel or do i have to do something with it? Basically im sure that the staff at these places wont know what they are using so will be no help to me.

And the second question (obbm, are you reading this) how long is the connecting lead? and does it have a right angled jack on it?
And if not Dave, can you knock me one up quickly if i need one?

Cheers guys.[/quote]

Dave - I can only answer for the older 172 system but I assume they are similar. It has two modes. You can pre programme a number of preset frequencies in the receiver and then store these for recall later (although you can't do this in the transmitter) or you can tune manually just as you would manual tune a radio with a digital readout. Scanning for clear frequencies would rely on all wireless equipment being operational at the moment of scan for itto be worthwhile.

The lead question (if I may answer) - the original is very long - well over a metre and very poor quality. It has a straight moulded 1/4" jack on one end and a 3.5mm jack on the other with a locking collar that screws on to the transmitter pack.

OBBM made me a Van Damme cable with a locking 3.5mm jack on one end and a Neutrik right angled muting jack on the other, which is superb.

Steve

[quote name='obbm' post='18739' date='Jun 16 2007, 11:00 AM']Having made you a new lead I thought I'd better make myself a new one with a view to using my 172 at Loxwood Beer Festival today however trying out my 172 system I found that it is no a patch on a direct cable. I'm not sure how to describe it but with a cable the bass is crystal clear but with the 172 it's just .... If it were an optical system I would say it was out of focus. It's put me right off using it again. Maybe faulty I'll have to see who Senheisser recommend to service them.[/quote]


Well Dave as you know, I use both your instrument cables and a 172, with your new lead for that too. I have no problems at all. If I was ultra critical I'd say that my system drops out a little lower frequencies AND adds to the higher frequencies, but the sound is still great. I have noticed, however, that I get different results albeit negligible, when using different rigs. Is the unit set correctly both at the transmitter and receiver end? I have the transmitter set with a -10db cut, and then adjust the receiver with the red attenuator knob on the back to equal the gain levels that I experience with a cable. Not really sorted out the squelch though.

Steve

All of sudden a Precision Hot Rod in the For Sale section......

Interesting review there! I have the BA115HP which is effectively the 15" version of yours and the sound is great, although I find the horn a little hissy on full. I don't know if mine is made in China but I'm going to look when I get home. I use mine much the same as yours, when I can't be bothered to shift my SVT4PRO and 610HLF. It's still a heavy beast for what is effectively a small combo.

I find that even for a solid state amp, a very good approximation of the classic Ampeg sound can still be dialled in although I struggle with the input gain as there's no real level indicator nor any noticeable change in sound bar volume levels - what do you think?

Who??

Same as Krysbass - I learned guitar left handed but learned bass right handed for the same reasons as above and retaught myself to play guitar right handed as well.