Dave Vader

Would, but still skint, and wouldn't have as much fun sticking mudbuckers in yours. Nice though...

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180534768875&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_933wt_976"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...IT#ht_933wt_976[/url] I would, but I'm skint. Needs some TLC.

Drop to D, play 10-12 and open on your was E now D string, again and again and again and again and again.... Oh, there is another bit, but nobody likes that, it's harder to explain. Borrowing Mark King's thumb may help too.

And I'm in, normally take my hat off to play, but found a couple of shots from practices where I couldn't find a place to put it. Summer hat... hasn't had much use the last few years.... Normal hat, filthy and sweaty and horrid inside, but much loved, the mark 5 Dave Black Trilby, soon to disintegrate and be replaced by the mark 6. Thought it was time to get this thread back up near the top anyway.

or [url="http://www.lemonrock.com"]this[/url] you can set your location and everything.

[quote name='BassBod' post='896684' date='Jul 16 2010, 04:29 PM']Really, nobody likes dirty maple - worn old nitro'd maple maybe...but not plain grubby grey. Put a light sealer coat of Rustins on at least, and stick to traditional plunky flats...it'll sound great.[/quote] Fair point, I was thinking of my worn out nitro maple strat neck, but this would go a uniform grey wouldn't it?

I'm in a quandary now, cos I'm more Danko than Jaco in my tonal requirements. I like a bit of dirt on my wood, and I use flats anyway. Might try it out without a coat, as it's easier to put on eon that take it off...

Out of interest, any ideas how badly it would end if I left the Maple board just a bit stained?

[quote name='Meenie' post='895784' date='Jul 15 2010, 05:01 PM']still none the wiser on the airline then! [/quote] That link I posted has a fair bit of info on the airline in it. Not tried one myself though, sorry.

[quote name='Old Horse Murphy' post='895027' date='Jul 14 2010, 08:18 PM']Reminds me of my youth: "M Khan is bent"[/quote] I'd forgotten that... Great tune btw.

I wish the genie could give me one stupidly valuable old fender bass, so that I could sell it to a mug to put in his safe, and buy a ton of old Jap copies to play with. Does that work Pete? Or right at the moment I really want an Ibby Blazer, with the P pup in it, blackguard, not asking for much....

[quote name='Annoying Twit' post='895945' date='Jul 15 2010, 08:27 PM']The seller of this says s/he was told that this is Japanese. [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fender-precision-good-copy-Japanese-/330451608720?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item4cf0736490"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fender-precision-goo...=item4cf0736490[/url][/quote] I have that exact same neck, I picked it up brand new on ebay 2 years ago, for not very much money. Nice, but not japanese. Comedy amber tint gives it away.

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='895666' date='Jul 15 2010, 03:12 PM']NOOooo!!! Don't put danish oil on, it will prevent proper adhesion of anything else except more danish oil you try to put on over the top. It may adhere initially but the oil will prevent full penetration into the wood pores and it will flake off as soon as its given a bit of grief. there are some dyes that the Rustins plastic coating can be used with if you need to apply a slightly tinted finish, but not all are compatible and some may retard the cure of the coating. Check with Rustins first! Put the Danish oil back on the shelf. Do it now.[/quote] Was hoping someone could point out to me a huge mistake if I made it. Al to the rescue again. BTW, got those springs from you yesterday Al, perfect, did the job nicely. Thanks very much. Will not strip all the nitro off the neck and refinish then. Just have to take it off the front, try and find a dye that goes a similar colour to the rest of the neck, and plastic coat away. Or leave it a completely different colour...

Read this, if you were hoping to be Danko (like me) you won't like it.... [url="http://www.bassplayer.com/article/eastwood-club-bass/oct-07/31867"]http://www.bassplayer.com/article/eastwood...ss/oct-07/31867[/url]

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='895147' date='Jul 14 2010, 10:10 PM']I'm sure I came across a post on the Guitar project forum where a cyanoacrylate (superglue) had been flooded onto a fingerboard for a fretless bass, dries quick and rock-hard but you could end up with a couple of fingers stuck to it if you're not careful and they would all laugh at you in casualty. Stter away from yacht varnish & similar air-drying alkyd resins.[/quote] I've seen some of the superglue projects. I always manage to glue my fingers to something no matter what I'm doing, so might avoid this. My furniture maker friend seems to think the Kaufman-style walls and epoxy flood method, followed by LOTS of sanding would be the best option. Me, I'm thinking Rustins plastic coating now, probably over the top of some danish oil to get the colour right.

Old plywood hofners are brilliant, nothing else sounds quite like them. Fix it up to keep round the house and play it. Unless the neck has warped, in that case there's nothing you can do but give it to a luthier, or give it a dignified funeral.

[quote name='gusto' post='893802' date='Jul 13 2010, 03:08 PM']Yes its definately a Hofner, says Hofner on the body, top left, and engraved on the bridge. Not sure what the mods would be as the bridge is also engraved Hofner. It has a switch and two control knobs as seen in the picture, the switch goes either R or S. There is no label inside, and I cant find any serial numbers etc anywhere on it. I have looked on loads of Hofner sites but cant find one with that bridge/switch set up. Any ideas welcome.[/quote] There was a guy on one of the hofner collector sites that you could email, and he could spot anything, he got my congress down to a 1956, just by looking at the tailpiece. Sadly that was 10 years ago, is there a contact on any of the sites you looked at? There's some proper hofner nuts out there. They can help.

Love T-Birds, can't afford one, had an Epi one for a week, but decided that the price I was going to pay for it was too much (a much loved old analogue synth in a trade) so waiting for a real one. Or a Tokai, whichever comes first.

Looks like a Hofner Congress with some very nasty mods done to it. Have a look in the f-holes, there should be a label inside with hofner model and serial numbers in there.

[quote name='Stacker' post='893405' date='Jul 13 2010, 08:28 AM']Wizards, eh? Heard that name a lot on this forum. Anyone tried Kent Armstrongs, particularly the ceramic ones?[/quote] Heh, me again... Got Kents in my P-bass, they're not the ceramics though, hot alnicos. Sound surprisingly good for the price, I have no complaints, and haven't felt the need to upgrade them that I thought I was going to.

[quote name='wateroftyne' post='893384' date='Jul 13 2010, 07:24 AM']These pickups are £50 a pair and made in China, right? Well, I've never used Toneriders, but for £20 more you could get a set of pickups hand-wound in the UK by [url="http://www.wizardpickups.co.uk/shop.asp?category=Bass"]someone who cares[/url]. Just sayin'.[/quote] Yep, that's what I'm planning on replacing the sh1tbuckets in my J with, pair of Wizard 84s. Though I've never used those either, just heard good things.

[quote name='BeLow' post='893377' date='Jul 13 2010, 07:02 AM']Work in a school - if only I could be as accomplished - I was doing the dodgems[/quote] Mystery sorted, good man, you made my missus very happy, she loves the dodgems.

[quote name='BeLow' post='893127' date='Jul 12 2010, 08:03 PM']Have you been talking to my boss again?[/quote] Tricksy fellow that BeLow, doesn't want his workmates from the posh school knowing he hangs out on Bass forums in his spare time I think....

[quote name='Telebass' post='892934' date='Jul 12 2010, 04:27 PM']I don't know where BeLow works, but meeting two Basschatters in 10 minutes at a private gig was slightly surreal![/quote] Just spotting one from across a marquee was odd enough for me, never met any before.

[quote name='henry norton' post='892770' date='Jul 12 2010, 01:41 PM']+1 on that - I wouldn't use yacht varnish on a fretless board but Rustins plastic coating looks pretty good if you want an alternative to the epoxy route. So far as I know it's similar constitution to the polyester Fender would have applied to their fretless maple boards in the first place.[/quote] Excellent, I was trying to get the look from a 70s maple fretless P-bass that I've been gawping at in Mansons. If it's close to that, then I'll go that way. Have considered epoxy, but the decent stuff is not cheap, and cheapness is the priority on this project. Only considered the yacht varnish as I found it. Thought it might do the job, and possibly had something in common with marine epoxy. Which shows why I know nothing about sailing, or wood finishing (except what I get from my many advisers, both on here and IRL, my furniture maker friend is often bemused by my many requests about wood finishes).