Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

rwillett

⭐Supporting Member⭐
  • Posts

    1,529
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Everything posted by rwillett

  1. For that price (£8 inc delivery) I've ordered one of those. I did pass on the washable nose hair trimmer for £1 though...
  2. Si Have a look at this thread. There's quite a few pictures of the DC-7 with brackets underneath this pedalboard I designed and made. I use two brackets that fit the DC-7 and in my case they bolt to the horizontal aluminium as that's what the aluminium is designed to be used for. In your case do you have something to screw the brackets to? Plywood? The screws can be quite small as there's little weight to theDC-7. The brackets don't connect to the DC-7, they merely hold it tightly in place. If you have specific ideas for mounting it, I can probably adapt my brackets. The brackets are dead simple to design and print. 30 mins for two of them. Let me know Rob
  3. Can you fit the DC7 underneath? That's how I mount mine. I can send you some 3d printed brackets for free that you can use if that helps.
  4. He's from Germany, beyond that can't say...
  5. I got a cheap dedicated compressor pedal a few days ago, a Donner Compressor. Looked cheap and I thought I'll have a look at that and I'll put it on my pedalboard. Well, what a disaster that was. The pedal is very small, I hadn't quite appreciated how small. It's metal and well made BUT it almost falls between the rails on the pedalboard. Thats not the biggest problem though, nothing I have will actually stick to the bottom of the pedal. So none of the Velcro I have stays on. The rubber appears to be some sort of inert rubber that is very non-slip but at least three different velcro tapes just slide off it as if it had some sort of repulsion built into it. NASA needs to know as this could be cheap way to launch rockets. It turns out that its not just me and other people have the same issue. (https://www.jazzguitar.be/forum/guitar-amps-gizmos/83801-attaching-mini-pedals-pedalboard-velcro-aint-workin.html) So rather than peeling off the rubber from the bottom of the pedal, I designed printed a new base that simple screws in AND is quite large so it spans the pedal board rails. The old base is in the box, I used the same screws that came with it. I suspect that all of the Donner mini pedals have this issue, nice pedals but a little tricky to fix with Velcro. If anybody wants a base let me know and I'll print one out and send it for free. Rather annoying TBH. Rob
  6. That was my first thought as well...
  7. Is that what double basses can go for? Wow! I suppose same as top end violins... I'll not go down that rabbit hole. I actually blinked a few times reading £100K Anyway back to the thread, interesting thread to which I cannot contribute but still very interesting
  8. I think it mounts using the feet as well. My guess is that it will be a M5 or M6 thread, as its German (is it?) it'll use a metric thread and I'll have a bolt that fits. I've just blown up my design model fiddling with it, blown up here means that things that were settled now produce lots of errors and I need to debug it. I may just take the sketches and start again. Fusion 360 is like a really bad development IDE for programming. The workflow wants you to use parametric design but make one little error and BANG, nothing works. However there is no issue making the pedalboard just about any height any length and just about any width (once I redo it). Lets see what @Woodinblack says. Rob
  9. Si It could be mounted in any number of ways: 1. It could be an extra rail that sits behind the last aluminium extrusion, that makes it wider. 2. It could sit underneath the aluminium extrusion and so not take up any extra width. That means the board might be a little higher. 3. It could attach to the aluminium extrusion directly on either the back OR the bottom of the aluminium extrusion. Not sure what the impact is here TBH. Also not sure how to fix it. I've looked at the web page and can't see anything like measurements and fixings and useful stuff like that, If you are interested, lets work out what you actually want to do, then see what it might cost. Rob
  10. Thats two of us. Not bad value either. Don't forget that the aluminium extrusion has slots for things to fit underneath the rails without having to put two additional new rails on the bottom. That's how I mount my DC-7. Basically I suspend them upside down using purpose made U bolts. Velco also works but I like something that's fixed. I'm a bit old fashioned that way. Here's a picture of one U bolt on the DC-7 fastened into the aluminium. There's a reasonable amount of space there but it clearly depends on how high the back rails are. There's also the sides of the aluminium which are 20mm high. I tend to use the sides for cable management, there's some pictures of that earlier in the thread.
  11. @MichaelDean Thats an interesting option. I'd add that in by extending out the pedalboard sides to accommodate the power rail, no idea about the fixings but that's probably just a detail. I'd then cut the aluminium extrusion so its the same length (600mm) and it all matches up. Rob
  12. Si Happy either way. I would welcome your thoughts and if you wish to do this via PM thats fine. I'm trying to make these pedalboards as easy to make and build as possible and your thoughts and how you wish to use them are as valid as anybody else's. If you have an unusual project and you'd prefer to keep it just top the two of us, that's OK. I really welcome all input both good and bad, if I don't know what people don't like, I can't make them any better. I have the DC-7 and think it's great. Its got enough outputs for me to use and I do like the USB output as well. Everybody has a different value point though and use case. Thanks Rob
  13. It normally takes a few meetings with me to move to the hate stage. I feel honoured I've got there so quickly this time, a small measure of achievement in an otherwise dull day. Looking at that flight case, the maximum internal height is 12.5cm. For a pedalboard to fit in there, with a 5cm pedal height (just measured a cheap Behringer) the actual pedalboard would have to be a maximum of 6-7cm high at most. This would mean a very slight angle, and no riser at the back. The 34cm width is easy as is the 48cm length. Depending on how you use the flight case, it could be designed to fit straight in so just take the lid off, or attach to the internal board and take that out. Just seen the DC-8 and checked the power output. Its quite a few output sockets but some of them are 100mA. I see your problem now. You're doubling power sockets from Cioks to get to the right amperage. I have to do something similar to drive the Mod Dwarf at 12V though I use two sockets at 500mA to get there.It claims it needs 2A, I ain't got two amps spare so it gets 1A and no more I'd be a little careful about pushing the Cioks, though I have to say they are excellent kit. Second hand prices on the DC-8 are probably quite high so thats an option. I already have the mounting brackets for a DC-7 designed as I'm using them if that helps Thanks Rob
  14. Si I will do my best not to tempt you. I promise... Length is the long dimension, so length is 406mm as there is 3mm of "end" to hide the ends of the extrusion. You can have any length up to around 1m. Width is the front to back and is variable (talking serious now). I can adjust the spacing between the bars easily. Currently the width is 345mm and the height is 112mm. That's with the back two rows raised by 25mm. Just about every dimension is driven from parameters. So what can be changed: 1. The space between the extrusions. Currently 45mm. 2. The angle of the tope of the pedalboard. 3. The back riser height. This is 25mm. 4. The front height (where the circle is above). And to be honest, just about everything else can be changed. I attach my DC-7 under the back two rows. I designed a U bracket to fit so it clamps in. Why do you need to buy a new PSU? If it's flatish, just put some u brackets on it and bolt it in. I also designed cable management clips that fit and unfit by hand, they simply clip into the extrusion. I put my Cioks cables through them to keep them neat and tidy. These can be any (sensible) length. I tend to use smaller ones and simply use more of them. Hopefully not tempted you in the slightest. Rob
  15. Si, Thanks very much for the offer, appreciate it. I don't have a milling machine and whilst I would love to do more machining type work, especially around this sort of thing, I have to be sensible (not a word that many people, especially my other half would normally use about me), and recognise that I simply don't have time for learning another skill, one that might involve losing a finger, an eye or better/worse depending on your point of view. I'm better off sticking with the occasional burn from my pair of 3d printers. Now if you have a very large 3d printer, say 500mm x 500mm I'd be very interested in talking to you Be still interested in making a pedalboard though for you... All the best Rob
  16. So you milled using a pillar drill and an XY table? If so, impressed. Which XY Table did you buy from Amazon please? Thanks Rob
  17. Strange use of the word "bargain" I hadn't seen before... I did think it was from another gentleman in the Midlands before realising he was from Germany. Perchance they are related...?
  18. X/Y tables start to get expensive very quickly. Looks like you did a great job though. Did you file out the slots by hand? Rob
  19. So after quite a lot of fiddling, I've now 'finished' two pedalboards. I've reduced the number of screws, tidied up the design, raised the back two rows of the four row pedalboard, made sure the two row compact pedalboard (which is a different design) has enough space under for power supplies. I no longer need tap-on extrusion ends so it looks an awful lot nicer. The red one is 400mm wide and the white is 300mm. I'm quite pleased with the white version, didn't think it would be so good. There is no Velcro on the white one yet. Both can easily take me standing on them. I suspect they could take two of me as there's no flex at all. This has the last two rows 25mm higher. This avoids having to make a riser for the pedals. If anybody is interested in having one made to measure, please let me know. Thanks Rob
  20. Looks very nice, how did you make it?
  21. Pete Great that you are coming along. See who.else you can round up from the Kendal area. I'm up there at 1100 this morning at Kendal rugby club coaching the girls. Rob
  22. Might be worth looking at this webpage https://luxarts.net/warning/ "All our designs are created using artificial intelligence, and THERE ARE CURRENTLY NO PHYSICAL PRODUCTS AVAILABLE." I hate to be the bearer of bad news, as I'm sure some of you are already looking down the back of sofa to see what spare change is down there for the guitar table, but you'd need to commission somebody to make it all. Now I'm sure one of the luthiers around here would love to take it on as a commission. However I'd like this Rob
  23. Mama's and Papa's - Dream a little dream. First band I've played with in 40 years and we only have one person who plays guitar so far, me and I'm not very good. The vocalist fancies singing the above, so I'm having to learn an open B7 Chord which would be OK, if I hadn't broken or dislocated every finger and thumb on my left hand multiple times from playing too much rugby. Oh well, it'll eventually come right, either that or surgery Rob
×
×
  • Create New...