Stompbox

[sub][sub][size=4]Hi - just put a post on about the adjustment of my bass bridge :-[/size][/sub][/sub] [sub][sub][size=4][url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/180451-adjusting-re-cutting-bridge-on-double-bass/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/180451-adjusting-re-cutting-bridge-on-double-bass/[/url][/size][/sub][/sub]

[size=4]Following on from my previous “article” about adjusting the slots in the nut of my double bass, here’s a description of recutting and adjusting the bridge. Again I was inspired by the link I was sent:- [url="http://www.dennishavlena.com/bassetup.htm"]http://www.dennishav...om/bassetup.htm[/url] The action on my bass was too high, but having read the ideas from those set out in the above link, I took a different approach to re-cutting the bridge. [attachment=111878:Bridge 1.jpg][/size] [color=#000000]I measured the height of the strings & then made up a series of gauge blocks out of Hardboard, and some of the 0.6mm thick card that I have – which I used in adjusting the nut. I glued them together with PVA glue and left them overnight. I measured their thickness, and then was able to put one or two together, or to have one with one or two pieces of card to make up a whole range of thicknesses that would be suitable for the lowered string heights.[/color] [color=#000000][attachment=111879:bridge 2.jpg][/color] [color=#000000]Next I used both a small padsaw, and a small round file (out of the set of files I used on the nut) to slot the bridge more deeply, again doing just one string at a time. [/color] [color=#000000][attachment=111880:bridge 3.jpg][/color] [color=#000000]I marked the bridge to show what I thought would be the right depth, but to check I kept re-stringing the one I was adjusting & putting the appropriate combination of thickness blocks under the string to see if I had cut the bridge to the right depth. [/color] [color=#000000][attachment=111882:Bridge 4.jpg][/color] [color=#000000]As soon as the string JUST held the block, then I was at the right height.[/color] [color=#000000][attachment=111884:Bridge 7.jpg][/color] [color=#000000]By keeping on checking, I eventually got to the string clearances that I wanted. It was a slow thing to do, and I had to keep on making sure that the bridge was vertical, and that it was in the right place on the instrument. I also played the bass to check the strings felt OK & were not too low & slapping the fingerboard. [/color] [color=#000000]I did, in fact, cut one of the slots very slightly too deep[/color] [color=#000000]So I used a small piece of cocktail stick, cut to length (ie: the thickness of the bridge) and glued it in the bottom of the offending slot with Superglue & let it dry overnight, then carefully re-filed it.[/color] [color=#000000]The next step was to take the excess wood off the top of the bridge so that the strings were only “sunk in” to the bridge by half their own depth.[/color] [color=#000000]This was a pretty straightforward job - I clamped the bridge to my bench, leaving the part to be filed overhanging the edge and I used a big, flat medium file, and then finished it off with sandpaper, then fine wet or dry paper, and polished it with fine wire wool. [/color] [color=#000000][attachment=111886:Bridge 6.jpg][/color] [color=#000000]I got all the old marks off the bridge, and, at the same time I was able to check how flat the bridge was, as I had a concern that it had “bowed”. [/color] [color=#000000]In fact when I checked, the bridge was fine – completely flat on one side, it was just on the other side where it had been rounded off at the top that made it appear to be curved overall.[/color] [color=#000000]So that's the approach that I took to adjust my bridge, it worked for me & I'm pleased with the result.[/color]

I've just posted a new topic where I've done the nut slots on my bass - do have a look & see if it's of interest. Geoff

[size=5]I recently posed a question on the forum asking about the high bridge and nut grooves/slots on my Zeller double bass & I got some very helpful replies, including this link:-[/size] [url="http://www.dennishavlena.com/bassetup.htm"]http://www.dennishav...om/bassetup.htm[/url] In this, the guy writes some every sensible stuff – a section of it is below – [color=#000000]ADJUSTING THE NUT GROOVES: [/color] [color=#000000]A badly adjusted (high) nut is very often the main cause of high playing action. [/color] [color=#000000]The nut should be checked and adjusted first. If a regular business card (slid between the strings and the [/color] [color=#000000]fingerboard, at the point where the string leaves the nut) just nicely fits, with no play -- not too loosely or tightly, this string's nut groove is most likely ok. [/color] [color=#000000]To lower a high groove, use hobby-store small files to carefully deepen the groove to "business-card thickness". [/color] [color=#000000]Go slow and check often. [/color] [color=#000000]Here's a tip: Even after following the above instructions it's sometimes difficult to really know if the nut grooves are lowered enough. I've found that if you take an elastic-type guitar capo (one with a double strap is best) and affix it upside-down (the elastic fabric side facing the fingerboard) an inch or so from the nut --- and then play the bass --- you can get a better idea if the nut grooves are low enough. [/color] [color=#000000]If it's noticeably easier to play with this inverted capo on, this is a good sign that the nut [/color] [color=#000000]grooves need some slight deepening. Go carefully and slow though.[/color] [color=#000000]Graphite from a sharp #2 pencil when applied liberally to each bridge and nut groove decreases the friction and lengthens string life. [/color] [color=#000000]I thought long & hard about this and determined to have a go myself – I’ve done a reasonable number of jobs myself – refretted two guitars, cut & fitted a couple of nuts and rewired pickups on basses & six strings, so I thought I’m sure I can do this….[/color] [color=#000000]I got a piece of very thick card (it measured 0.6mm thick), and I cut the card to about 25mm by 90 mm .[/color][color=#000000]The other items I used were a roll of masking tape, a set of small files (in the red plastic wallet), and a carpenter’s pencil, which has a very soft 6B lead to lubricate the slots (it’s just that I had this pencil so if you have a go there’s no need to rush out & buy one - I’m sure that a 2B would be fine). [/color] [color=#000000]Also I had a knife to sharpen the pencil a straight edge & the ever handy electronic tuner.[/color] [color=#000000][attachment=111633:Tools sm.jpg][/color] [color=#000000]I checked the action, like the man said, and, with a small piece of this very thick card, it just fell out from under the strings.[/color] [color=#000000]I did one string at a time, and was very conscious of the fact that once it’s filed off, it’s difficult to put it back! [/color] [color=#000000]I did, however, keep the filed out ebony wood dust – I understand that if you are [b][i]really[/i][/b] stuck (having taken too much out), you can mix the wood dust with a little cyanoacrylate glue (superglue) and use it as a very hard “filler”. Fortunately I didn’t have to do this.[/color] [color=#000000]I put the card under the strings and up tight against the nut, and folded the excess length back around the neck & held it in place with masking tape. By the time I finished, I just held the card in place with one hand, and filed with the other.[/color] [attachment=111634:bass b (1) sm.jpg] [color=#000000]I filed the slots carefully, so as not to make them too big, as the circular file I have is tapered, so I put masking tape around it higher up, where it would make too large a slot for the string, to prevent me using that bit of the file.[/color] [color=#000000]I started with the G string, and took the slot down a bit at a time, since I didn’t know whether the guy who wrote the article in the link above was right in saying “Business card thickness” .[/color] [color=#000000]In the event he was right (to my mind anyway) – I may, in fact, get a thinner card than the one [/color] [color=#000000]I used & re-visit the job to lower them further still.[/color] [color=#000000]By putting the card across the fingerboard, you can hold it in place whilst you file, and you won’t mark the fingerboard.[/color] [color=#000000]It is also easy to see when you have reached the thickness of the card, as your file starts to touch it. I took care to make sure that the slot sloped slightly towards the pegbox – in fact I was just following the existing contour of the slot.[/color] [color=#000000]The tricky one was the low E string – my bass has a Romberg Bevel to allow more movement of the string – what it meant to me as regards deepening the slot was that I had to take care to go deeper at right angles to the face of the flat part of the board, rather than going down toward the back of the neck, if you see what I mean?[/color] [attachment=111635:E slot sm.jpg] [color=#000000]The picture is, unfortunately, a little blurred, but I think you’ll get the idea.[/color] [color=#000000]I filed the slots, as I said, a bit at a time at first, then restrung, put up to pitch & played, then did it again. [/color] [color=#000000]Having done the G and the D, I was happier to go to the card thickness with the A straight away, which was fine, and then with the E – as I say, taking care to make sure that the slot was in the right sense to the fingerboard.[/color] [color=#000000]Having cut the slots deeper, and restrung it, I checked to see that the strings are not too tight in the slots, and that the strings are not “buried” deep in the nut - the G is in to a depth so that the top of the string is below the surface of the nut, but the others are on or above the surface and they all run smoothly, so that’s fine with me[/color] [color=#000000]The last thing was to lubricate the slots – I used my ultra soft 6B carpenter’s pencil - see the next picture – I’m so pleased that I have finally found a use for it since buying it at a tool stall in the market ages ago thinking “Hey that’ll be useful”. [/color] [color=#000000][attachment=111636:E graph sm.jpg][/color] [color=#000000]I am very pleased with the result, and feel that I know my bass a little better now.[/color] [color=#000000]I’m confident enough to go ahead, and am now in the process of lowering the string height/action by working on the bridge as well, so when I’ve done it, I will put it together in an article with photos like this.[/color] [color=#000000]I hope that you fellow bassists will find this of interest.[/color] [color=#000000]All the best,[/color] [color=#000000]Geoff.[/color] [color=#000000]28[sup]th[/sup] June 2012.[/color]

All the bits I bought from them were sent on time, well packed & a good price.

Interesting to hear all of the different solutions & suggestions. I also play a 4/4 double bass fitted with a Fishman BP 100 piezo pickup. This is OK straight into an amplifier, but I find it sounds well if I run it through the Sans Amp bass drlver preamp. The other "input device" I have is a Bose T1 Tonematch - which I use with my Bose L1 system - this has specific presets which does include Electric Uprights, and an Acoustic Bass fitted with fishman pickup, so quite a handy set of tones which you can, of course, tweak. Regards, Stompbox

Hey Blujay - a couple of pics from last night at "The Ranch House Bar"..... Cheap booze, live music Friday, Saturday, Sunday, Monday night - and guess what - it was really busy ! ! ! You would think other landlords would grasp this as a business concept......

Cheers for the information, iiipopes. Car loaded, off to gig in 20 mins.........

[font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Good morning to you Bluejay,[/font] [font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]That's a very interesting link - I've copied the document to my "bass files", and, a[/font][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]s you say - complete with drawings. All good stuff. [/font] [font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Incidentally - what a lovely morning after yesterdays rainy & windy day - when all the celebrations went on up here in Morecambe - we almost got "blown away".[/font] [font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]I'm out tonight (on bass guitar) for an early evening gig, which is really local so I'm looking forward to that.[/font] [font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Thanks again for your help on this. I've heard of a local guy in Lancaster who does work on string instruments, so will check him out,[/font] [font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Regards,[/font] [font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Geoff[/font]

Good morning Bluejay - thanks for your reply. It's just that the bass is physically hard to play when I compare it with the WAV4 electric upright I have - I know that they are, indeed, two different instruments, and that a double bass requires a certian amount of "physicallity" to play, and get the strings moving, but there is no need for it to be awkward. The string height at the nut may need to come down too. Lets see if I get any other comments and opinions on this, Cheers, Stompbox.

Does anyone have opinions on this? I have an Andeas Zeller 4/4 bass with tape wound Pirastro strings - the action seems to be too high to me - the clearance between the underneath of the strings and the face of the fingerboard (end of the fingerboard) is as follows:- E string 13.5mm ( the board has a Romberg bevel - if that's relevant) A string 12mm D string 11.5mm G string 10.5mm If it seems too high to me, then, perhaps it is too high??? I seem to have to put too much work in to hold the strings down..... The other point is that I understand that a bridge is supposed to be pretty much at right angles to the belly of the instrument. The bridge on mine (which is a one piece/non adjustable made - I am advised it's made of of MAILLE wood -??- has developed a curve to it when viewed from vertically above the side facing the tail piece is convex, and th eside facing the fingerboard is slightly concave. 1) Is this what happens over a period of time & can I still trust the bridge not to collapse? 2) Does anyone have experience of reducing the height of a bridge - are there any notes/information on this? Thanks, Stompbox.

It's all gloom and doom in Morecambe at the minute folks..... Landlord of pub rang the other day & cancelled all our remaining gigs with them - numbers of punters down, pub rental up - blah, blah, blah. I was not best pleased. Also another good local venue for bands- Ma Murphy's - has closed & the landlord's gone. Used to have lots of local Rock bands on there. I've just come back after a reconnaisance mission about yet ANOTHER local place - the Park Hotel - someone said it was closing - well the doors are shut, and there's a notice pinned on the door. I didn't pull up & park, walk & read it, but if the doors are shut on a Saturday night, then it looks like confirmation of another one gone to the wall.... Hmmm..... Stompbox

Hi - just sold a guitar to Rob8 - great communications, prompt payer - an all round top Bass Chat member. Stompbox