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carlsim

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Posts posted by carlsim

  1. Putting this up for sale here to gauge any interest. Yamaha StagePas 300 PA system. Completely contained system - comes with 2 8" speakers with horns, amplifier which can be attached / detached from the speaker if needed, power and speaker cables (5m) and the all important storage bag / wheeled transport system.

    Easy to transport and setup is quick - a great little system.

    This is pretty much as brand new, bought for a project a few years ago which never materialised and I have only used it a couple of time since then. Once as a small PA for my nephews birthday party and once with my jazz trio when we had a guest singer. Great for solo / duo acts in small venues etc. it's a great little system which is quick and easy to set up. Can also work as a foldback system with the speakers mounted on the floor. I don't have any stands for it I'm afraid but I'm sure you can pick some up cheap used ones out there.

    Stock pictures - if there is any particular interest I am happy to take a few and post them. Open to discussion about offers within reason.

    Good article from sound on sound: https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/yamaha-stagepas-300

    Hit me with any questions. Collection only but I am happy to discuss a meet up if that helps...

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  2. 12 hours ago, SumOne said:

    Inspiring stuff! I had my eye on that bass when it was at Bass Direct and was wondering how I'd go about repairing it - it looks great the way you have done it. 

     

     

    Thanks. I was a bit miffed with BD when I bought it as they assured me it was just paint damage but it went a lot further than that and minor cracks had to be stabilised but all in all, a successful and I am well chuffed with the end result.

    • Like 2
  3. I bought a set for my fretless 5 and they were Ok… until the low b snapped as I was tuning them up when I first put them on! Couldn’t believe it! Contacted Thomann and they gave me a refund as they didn’t have any more in stock. Bought some roto flats instead which are lovely… oh well! 
    just my experience for what it’s worth.

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    One last update, after much deliberation I remade the control cavity cover in American Black walnut which matches the pick up covers. Luckily i found some at the correct thickness so have recut a new one and I must admit, it looks much better. To me the ash one was trying too hard to look the same and yet, looked too different. A contrast looks much better! It's oiled but not to bring out a sheen so again, will match the pup covers.

     

    Anyway, first outing with the revamped Xotic tonight - looking forward to it!

    • Like 9
  5. Hi all… I have been an UnRealBook user on my ipad for many years. A lot of the gigs I do are reading gigs and I use pdf format real books for a lot of jazz gigs that I do. 
    always been happy with UnRealBook, never had any problems and I like the way it works. I have also recently started using iRealPro as well. Anyway…

    my iPad battery is on its way out and it’s time for a new one. I have been looking at the new 5th gen iPad Air, as I also want something that I can use a stylus with to mark electronic work (im a teacher in the day time…)

    i was flummoxed today when I saw that apple had upped their price today by £100 for an iPad Air, add on £130 for an Apple Pencil it becomes ridiculous how much it will be once you add on a case. Getting close to 1k. 
    so I start thinking about Android and found a good deal on a Samsung S7… comes with the stylus and Samsung are doing free keyboard cases at the moment. The problem is - UnRealBook isn’t available on Android. Nor is ForScore which is a viable alternative. 
    iRealPro is on android, but I have to buy it again as you buy it from the app stores, not the developer. Really!!??

    anyway… does anyone use Mobile Sheets on Android? Any other viable options on Android? I have an iPhone but not entirely sucked into the apple platform… plus I like that the S7 is a bit bigger than the iPad Air screen wise. Never a bad thing.

    just wanted to know if anyone was an android / pdf music score kinda person and what their thoughts were… anyone??

  6. 2 hours ago, hiram.k.hackenbacker said:

    @carlsim- I can’t help thinking some photos of the actual bass might help your cause here, plus an accurate weight given you’ve said it’s weighty. A guitarist I know is after a J that won’t break the bank, but no way is he buying it without seeing some photos of it.

    Completely agree - been on my list of things to do. Anyone in for £100 without the gig bag?? I have an alternative use for that…

  7. 13 minutes ago, Richard R said:

    Absolutely superb result! Like it a lot.

     

    I would send the pix to the contact you made at Xotic, thanking them for their help and that this bass had nice wood under the finish.

    I would also create a Word document of all the steps you did (pretty much this thread!), print it out, and keep it with the bass. Then when you sell it on there is a) provenance that it really is a refinished Xotic and not a neck on a random body and b) a neat record for the next owner.

     

    Good point - will get on that!

    • Like 1
  8. So... last post from me with updates - it's finished! Re-assembled today and it's a banger! I'm never confident when it comes to electrics but all re-soldered and working and playing lovely.

     

    Thanks again to all who commented and especially to @Andyjr1515 with all his advice and countless replies to my messages. It's been an interesting experience and not something I want to repeat any time soon! However, anyone reading this, don't be put off by something of this ilk. I was worried given the fact it wasn't a budget bass that I could pink torpedo it up but a careful and softly softly approach with the wood paid dividends! I think it looks great and I am sure that this one will be sticking around for a while!

     

    Anyway.... a few more final pics: 

     

    Control cavity fully shielded

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    Battery box and control cover added - I hated the stock black plastic battery cover Xotic out in so I added the Gotah double battery box - much better! I am really pleased with the control cover as well - I may have mentioned that!

     

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    Pups are in, bridge in place and all electronics soldered in and finalised. I added some extra earthing just to be sure!

     

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    Scratchplate and knobs added:

     

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    And a few of the final assembly! 

     

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    That's it for this one. I wonder what's next? A 'from scratch' build maybe? Possibly... I am intrigued...

    • Like 17
  9. HB JB75 Vintage series jazz bass 4 string. Bought for a project that I don’t have the time for right now. It’s new, a few tweaks to get it playing nicely when it came out of the box but otherwise it’s never been played so brand new. Save yourself £48 on new price. Collection only Lowestoft area. A great bass to get started playing. Stock photos but will add some of the bass at some point today.

     

    https://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_hbb1975_na.htm

     

    It is a weighty beast but there is a lot of love for these on here...

     

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    • Like 5
  10. So, no need for wire wool. Gave it a buff this morning after a weekend of it hanging up and it looks great. I'm really chuffed with the end result.

     

    I am going to apply some wax to the final finish for a final buff and some extra shine so it will be ready for a reassemble on Friday when I have some spare time. New strings are ready. Will post some final pics of the bass back together.

     

    Thanks to everyone who commented and followed and especially to @Andyjr1515 who furnished with me with some excellent advice, recommendations and guidance. Without Basschat - who knows where I would be with this! What a great resource.

     

    Carl.

    • Like 10
  11. So… 800 w&d today this morning with a further light coating of tru-oil and getting close to completion.

    A few minor dust bunnies, swirls and minor irritations so on Monday I plan to wire wool down with 0000 wire wool and then apply a couple more light coats for a final finish. 
    I will then decide as to whether to apply the poly finish or not. As it stands, im leaning more towards not to bother, and possibly look at a finishing wax or something for a bit of extra protection, will decide once it’s finished and the tru oil has had at least a week to cure. I’m really chuffed as to how it has come out so far… thanks again to @Andyjr1515 for all his good advice! 
    the home straight beckons!!

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    • Like 13
  12. It’s funny… I just added an extra coat of tru oil, not wet and dry, just rubbed on and the difference that has made to the shine coming out. I’m going to do another 800 wet and dry tomorrow, leave that over the weekend with possibly another rubbed on coat… I’m now thinking that might be it and forget the poly! 
     

    I’m really liking how it looks and the shine coming through now looks lovely. It may well be that in time, if I feel that the tru oil isn’t strong enough, I can always strip down again, sand any marks away and then apply the poly. The more I do with tru oil, the more I like!

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    • Like 6
  13. 15 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

    When it's fully dry after your final buff-up, do yourself a mockup and give yourself a bit of 'air bass' playing time.  It'll tell you which option it wants you to pick.  Either will look great (that really is a nice piece of ash) so it's more about how you feel playing it.  And no-one else can decide that ;)

     

     

    Nice one - will certainly do that. And who doesn't love some 'air bass'!?

    • Like 1
  14. 15 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

    Yes - spot on.  You're doing a good job on it.

     

    So, for folks who were looking for silky smooth satin, it would take just one more wet 'n dry with a small amount of tru-oil and, say, 800 grit and then immediate vigorous buffing to dry it off and create the final sheen.  It's then left overnight to harden and buffed again...and that's it! 

     

    For the Ronseal Hardglaze gloss treatment, it's similar, except that, after buffing, you then leave it for 3-4 days minimum to fully dry before beginning the Ronseal wipe treatment covered above :)

     

    Exactly where I am heading @Andyjr1515 - one more wet and dry application with 800 grit, plenty of buffing and I aim to leave it a week before I start the hard glaze.

     

    Although, the more I see it in a satin sheeny finish, the more I like it! 🤣 the mind truly boggles with the options...

    • Like 1
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