carlsim

Shure SM58 in good working order.

Seen a bit of use and a slightly misshapen grill but works just fine and these go forever!

Boss SYB-5 in good nick. Love a synth bass but moving to a multi fx unit so individual pedals have to go!

In good nick - no box but will be will packed. £5 postage.

I am moving on my Overwater Aspiration Deluxe (the Tanglewood manufactured ones) 5 string fretless in Trans red.

It's in lovely condition, no marks or dings and comes with a soft gig bag. Postage available to be paid by buyer.

I got this bass as I wanted a 5 string fretless with an aim to convert it to fretless - I was aiming for an unlined look but it didn't quite end up that way. You can see the defret process here:

Anyway... the defret process was done very carefully and slots were filled with rosewood veneer, sanded and oiled - it plays really nicely. The only reason I am looking to sell is because an unlined 5 string fretless has come up for sale near me and GAS has taken over!

These are great basses and look the part - build quality is excellent. There are loads of posts about these and many people comment about how great these are - I just want an unlined fretless.

If the one I am after sells I will likely withdraw it from sale.

Pop me any questions.

Carl. 

Mike took my Flyrig from me - an easy and swift transaction!

Hi everyone… 

im in the market for a multi effects unit.

i want something as a front end for my QSC 12.2 FRFR. I’m not big into effects - I basically want a good DI, some good amp sims, chorus, octaver - I’m not a ‘dirt’ man… but what I’m really after is a good synth modeller. I have a boss SYB-5 which is ok (I do a lot of function 80s stuff) so a good synth engine is quite important to me.

i do like the boss, but one unit rather that separate pedals suits me more. I did have a line 6 pod go which was ok… not great for synths but ok… same engine as the helix so I don’t think a stomp is the way I should go.

i did watch a video of someone blistering their way through ‘Like a Prayer’ using a zoom B3 and it sounded great. Exactly the kind of thing I am after… 

will the b6 do this? Can anyone share some sound samples at all? I can’t find much online - it’s mainly standard demos…

I would be happy with the chorus octaver stuff I reckon… I’m just after a good synth bass!

As new Tech 21 Bass Flyrig V1. Great little box of tricks with the classic Sansamp built in alongside a tuner, compressor, chorus and octofilter.

Excellent condition - I have bought myself a synth bass pedal and need something with an FX loop so I can balance out wet and dry signals. Any trades would be looked at if you have something...

£170 posted to your door!

Carl

I have a Bass FlyRig which I could be tempted to trade if you feel that is for you.

This has the sansamp plus a few other bonus items... as new in a box with PSU...

26 minutes ago, soulstar89 said:

It’s gone already? I went yesterday to play it. Wow. 
 

I’ll message you directly when I see some so you are aware. I am always looking for pb70’s. 
 

 

Top man - let me know if you see anything good.

I may stick it in the wanted section...

I was going to plump for the one in the Gallery today but someone beat me to it!

shows that they are desirable if anything!

8 hours ago, Steve Browning said:

The tuners are the key. Large plate = US parts. Small plate = Japanese. I believe the US pickup is made in Japan but to the US spec.

 

Get a PB70US and you'll have everything you want, from what you've said. 

 

Get a picture of the back of the headstock. 

will do… thanks for all the advice! I may come back hopefully with some pics from a NBD!

So is it a case that the earlier MIJ models came from the Fujigen factory, and the CIJ models came from the Tokai factory??

is that a rough guide date wise??

7 minutes ago, soulstar89 said:

These are spiral saddles. Saddles are part of the bridge. 
 

you notice the have ridges? This allows you to move the string to your desired spacing. 

👍

So that top image is a spiral saddle tuner? Is that correct? Meaning that one was a 57 or a 62??

50 minutes ago, Steve Browning said:

 

They have a good stock but they do seem be quite pricey.

 

I believe (and I said it elsewhere and can't remember if I was corrected), but the US ones have large back plate tuners, whereas the non-US ones have the smaller back plate version. The one shown here has the large plate tuners. They're what I use as a gauge.

 

 

Can you elaborate?? A comparison?

I did see Fender Fever on ebay… I might give them a call and see if there is wiggle room on the price as they do seem quite pricey…

1 hour ago, Linus27 said:

As Steve has said, to get the Fender Precision TV logo, you want the PB70 Precision and the PB70US come with US Pickups and Alder/Ash body. I'm a huge Japanese Fender fan and I have the PB62 Fretless Precision andxa 62RI Jazz which are both amazing.

Is there an easy way to tell the difference between a PB70 and a PB70US??

it’s definitely a PB70 I want then… have to look at what is out there…

Does anyone know what years the PB 70 went from?
 

I’ve seen a lot of the crafted in Japan model, PB 70s, which are typically early 2000s, I just wondered if there was something older?

Hi all… need a bit of P-bass advice…

I have never been a P-bass kinda guy… always found the sound a bit limiting. But, time moves on and I find myself drawn more and more to owning a good one. 
can’t afford vintage, and to be honest, I don’t expect to play it that much as I mainly play 5 string anyway. But the first decent bass I bought was a 57 reissue p-bass that I sold to go 5 so would like to have one again.

anyway… I love the 70s p-bass logo. Just looks so much cooler to me than the standard logo. 
I also have a bit of a thing at the moment for Japanese guitars so a MIJ / CIJ P-bass would definitely get me excited…

does a MIJ p-bass exist with the 70s logo?

older the better but not too fussed… I see the CIJ PB70 around a bit but they all look a bit too ‘new’ and would like something a bit more ‘broken in’!

my thinking, what is the difference between a 57/62 and a 70s p bass? 
could I get any old MIJ/CIJ p-bass and add a 70s logo to it? Sand it down, add the logo and re-finish? Possibly with a tinted lacquer?

Am I better off keeping my search going?

do the 70s re-issues MIJ exist or is it a fruitless search?

don’t get me wrong, would love a 76 (YOB) but at today’s prices, it just isn’t gonna happen! 
any thought would be most welcome!

carl.

On 17/07/2023 at 18:06, Richard R said:

Did you decide to stain the fretboard, or leave it?

I haven’t as yet… I was going to leave but I have noticed a tiny bit of localised buzzing when sliding on the G string between 8th and 9th fret. So I am going to do a bit of block levelling to hopefully smooth that out. I think I will then go over the whole fingerboard and try an ebony stain. See how it comes out. 
I think I will apply a little bit to the fretlines first and then go over the whole lot. Hopefully it will even out and then I can tru oil over the top. 
will post pics when completed. Won’t be for a few weeks as moving house very soon!

Ross bought my Microbass II pedal from me. Very quick payment and very easy to deal with - defo a recommended basschatter!

Bought a Flyrig from Paul. Delivered quickly and exactly as he described. Recommended to all!

And sold!

EBS Microbass II plus some cash your way??

Picked this up recently and it is amazing but looking for a Flyrig with some additional effects added to save additional pedals… 

As new in the box, works as it should. 
 

I could be interested in a trade if you have a flyrig… 

can post for an extra £5

Ha!! I like it… maybe we can record it’s travels on here… 

@Happypants did anyone collect it from you or is it still in your possession??

Not a question, but some useful hints to repairing cracks in ABS guitar cases. 

I recently acquired a beat up fender hard case which was decent inside but clearly had suffered in it's life. It was thrown in with a bass I bought. I don't usually use hard cases but having done some touring recently, I did think that a decent hard case which I wouldn't mind if it got a bit more scuffed wouldn't be a bad thing. The biggest issue with the case was the feet on the bottom. All four had broken through and 1 had left a gaping hole exposing the polystyrene. Hmmm... what to do...

So I tried the usual superglue methods... no dice. I tried 'plastic welding' the crack together. Ok, but no real strength even when try to insert staples within the welds. There must be a better way.

Youtube - i came across a guy who had used an ABS slurry to repair his roof box. OK.... I will give it a try. Essentially it is dissolving plastic in Acetone.

I tried first of all cutting up some tie-wraps (not all are made of ABS but worth a try) and stuck them in a jar of nail polish remover (I didn't tell the wife!). No luck - clearly not ABS plus I don't know if nail polish remover is neat enough anyway.

So, a friend of mineworks for a screen printers and gave me a sheet of black ABS plastic. Perfect! Bought 1L of acetone from Amazon and away we go. He did say to me he wasn't sure if it was ABS or HIPS, but after some research, apparently they both dissolve in Acetone anyway. However, I had some black Lego bricks at hand as they are made of ABS plastic.

So, a jam jar, 50g of ABS plastic sheet cut into small squares to get them in the jar and 125ml of Acetone - the next day I had what resembles a thick black tar. One hint - keep shaking and stirring! Also, get a wider jar rather than a narrow tall jar. Much easier to stir as it gets quite thick and stiff.

Get an old paint brush and literally paint the stuff on. It hardens quickly although thicker coats I left overnight. 

I removed the inside polystyrene so I could coat inside and outside (small cracks could be done form the inside to save appearances) and I am left with a pretty solid hard case.

It isn't pretty by any means, but the work is all on the bottom of the case so nobody is going to really see it. I relocated the feet and all is good.

I have attached a couple of pics - as I mentioned it isn't pretty but it's solid and in a day of being more frugal, if I can repair it, I will!

So if anyone is wondering, it is a great method for repairing anything of this ilk.