carlsim

for any interest, I sanded off the old metro express decal and replaced it with a Sadowsky Metro Express decal I bought online. 

It needs some clear coat now but it looks 100 times better IMO...

So a quick wet sand of the dust coats to seal in the headstock and the decal went on relatively smoothly (despite it folding in half when it came off the paper!)

Slid nicely into place and dried off with no bubbles... one tiny bit of dust but with the cover clear coats that should be invisible hopefully!

Anyway... looking good so far! Going to leave it to dry and stick overnight and then will be dust coats to start sealing in tomorrow.

So, all masked up and a dust coat applied which i shall wire wool before the decal goes on.

I was sent two decals so I have a fail safe of a spare - just in case!

Instructions state to do a few mist coats and build it up very gradually before laying down proper coats... as long as i get it sealed, that will do for me!

40 minutes ago, Chienmortbb said:

Have you got some spare decal material that you can try it on before trying it on the real decal?

35 minutes ago, baldwinbass said:

I've used Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear with success

I think I am going with the Rust-Oleum spray poly - think I am going matt finish though as apparently it will buff up to a satin finish...

5 hours ago, Chienmortbb said:

The makers of many of the decal materials recommend an acrylic spray to seal/fix. I have used this method many times.

Can you recommend a specify spray / brand??

Not a build thread, but a fun little project! So, I took delivery of a Sadowsky Metro express and immediately detached the neck and sanded off the decal after removing the tuners.

I preempted it's arrival and ordered a new decal for it (uploaded on another post by a kind BC'er) and although it doesn't exactly match the new decals on the new models (the new ones don't have a space between Metro and Express), it's pretty much the same and at least it will distinguish between older gens and newer ones!

So, next stage will be a couple of light dust coast of clear coat on the headstock(I think I am going with the Rust-oleum Poly), a light sand so the decal will have something to adhere to and then on it will go once dry. I have added a bit of tru-oil after the initial sanding for colour tinting so will have to rough that up a bit before the dust coats on the headstock. I was going for a full stain approach but have given up on that for now.

Then , plenty of dust coats, a couple of wet coats and then a wet sand and buff - should be all good! Will update when I can.

Previous post!

"What so you guys use to seal in decals? I recently acquired a Sadowsky Metro Express and have had a new decal made as per the newer models to replace the old Tesco looking one.

I want to darken the maple first with a subtle stain and then will tru-oil the rest of the neck. The decal I would prefer to seal in - what is the best stuff to use?

I was thinking of a spray on Poly - satin finish which i can buff up to a sheen... I dont think I want it glossy..."

Alex took a headphone amp off my hands - easy and swift transaction! Recommended!!

31 minutes ago, Smanth said:

What is a coffee table bass?

S'manth x

What they said - guitar with a fancy wood top - Overwaters and the like... burls, fancy grains...

i find my tastes change over time... for years I couldn't stand a P bass and only played 5 strings, now I have been after a MIJ/CIJ 70s p-bass for a few months and will pull the trigger when I find the right one. Likewise, I have always loved the 'coffee table' bass and have owned several Overwater basses and similar custom basses but over the past few years, have found myself drawn towards cool and unusual painted finishes! I tend to go with the flow, play it and if it feels good, go with it. I know I will probably sell it after a while anyway!

Having said that, despite my first ever decent bass being a sunburst p-bass, I doubt I will ever own another sunburst unless it was a 60's or early 70s P or J bass! Don't know why, can't stand the look of a 'burst!

Hi all you lovely wood people out there...

I am shortly taking delivery of a new bass and one of the first things I want to do is change the look of the headstock. It is one the Sadowsky Metro Express basses with the older RSD / Tesco looking decal... there is loads of discussion on here if you want to have a look into it - my plan will simply be to replace it with a eBay bought Sadwosky decal. I haven't seen anyone producing the Metro Express ones yet - if anyone knows where I can get one made as I know someone uploaded an image file on a previous post...

Anyway... I have a Stingray Special with a roasted maple neck and much prefer the look of roasted maple. Maple looks naff IMO when new and I can't be doing with that! So... can I create a roasted maple look on maple without shoving it in the oven for 3 hours? I have seen some posts online about soaking steel wool in tea or vinegar to stain the wood, anyone tried anything similar with some success? I know it won't be exactly the same, but I have seen varying degrees of roasted maple so even if I can darken it a bit in a similar way, it will look a lot better!

My plan will be to tru oil the back of the neck and possibly do a spray / wipe on poly to cover the decal and rest of the headstock once the process is complete. Possibly rubbing back to a satin finish rather than gloss.

Any contributions would be most welcome!

Colin took a DI box from me - top BC'er all round! 

On 30/11/2023 at 21:49, BreadBin said:

Can I ask the bridge spacing please?

Hi BreadBin,

String spacing at the bridge is 19mm… actually looks more like 18mm!

I will have a nosy in the morning and report back - it’s at my studio… 

I actually pulled the trigger on an unlined fretless so this needs to go to pay for it!

Go aaahhnn my son!!! ‘ave it!!!

you know you want to!

1 hour ago, Richard R said:

That's gorgeous!

On 19/09/2021 at 19:29, BassAgent said:

I am honestly considering having that logo sanded off and adding a Sadowsky decal. The story of why the Sadowsky name isn't on the headstock as such (but as part of the RSD brand) is clear and easy, but still, yes, that logo is awful.

Did you ever change the decal? I have picked one up and hate the look of the headstock... wondered if there were decals out there yet?

I see the new versions have a metro express decal...

Me too!! Been looking for one for a while… glad I waited at £299!

Samson Q1U USB Dynamic Mic in excellent condition.

Comes with all accessories - great for podcasts etc. and comes with the desktop mic holder as pictured.

Price included postage.

18 hours ago, dub_junkie said:

I had a factory lined fretless Deluxe in the same see thru red. Only sold it as part of a cull when I relocated 250 miles south. Fantastic basses these Deluxes (and the Elites)

and this fretless conversion of yours looks very clean. Excellent job! 

GLWTS! 

 

thanks for the positive comments - it was a labour of love for someone who has a tendency to cut corners! 
I was well chuffed with the end result - I just am hankering after an unlined board…

I should add that this has a set of the Ernie Ball flatwounds on it which haven't been used much... great strings and they really sing on here...

definitely 35" scale - although a quick measurement tells me it's between and 34 and 35 - it's 44cm from the nut to the 12th fret which is 17.3228 inches giving 34.6 roughly... 

saying that, the typical overwater design is 35" scale i think... which is what this based on.

Someone may want to chirp in on this?

Behringer Ultra-DI D120 Active 2 channel DI box

can be 2 channel or a splitter - as new used once with my pod go which I no longer have so not needed.

Hercules iPad mic stand holder in VG working order.

I only have the mic stand clamp i'm afraid. Was over £40 new. suitable for any tablet (not the larger 12.9 ipads - which is why i need a new one!

As per title - pretty much as new with PSU.

Save £10 on new price. See image for details and connections.