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carlsim

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Posts posted by carlsim

  1. Thanks for all the great advice guys, I'm still at a bit of stalemate with what to do. It isn't my main bass so have the luxury to make it a long term project. I had a more in depth conversation with someone at Xotic and he did say that the body may have small flaws (he stressed the may) but essentially they are all the same wood - they just pick out the ones with the nicer / more distinct grain patterns for natural finishes.

    Either way, I think it's two options - strip back and re-paint (I will do the prep work myself and just pay someone to paint) or strip right back and see what the wood is like with an aim to wax / satin lacquer finish which I can do all myself. If i get it sanded back and don't like the look of it, I can then look at painting again.

    I think I am going to sand back / strip off the paint on the front anyway to get an idea of what it 'could' look like waxed, and then decide if I continue that route or just strip back to the sealer coat for a re-spray. The good thing is I got it cheap enough to pay for a re-spray! It isn't a cheapo bass and it plays lovely so I do want to make a good job of it at the end.

    Better get stripping! The bass, not me!

  2. Thanks for the advice @Andyjr1515

     

    I have spoken to someone at Xotic and they confirm that they use 'paint grade' bodies for painted finishes and in his words, "Save the pretty ones for the natural finishes". I think a strip and wax will be put on the backburner for now.

     

    They recommended a complete strip and re-paint if I wanted to fix as they think a match would be difficult but I think I have managed to stabilise any loose layers of paint with CA and clamped them down as it wouldn't stay down whilst it dried. I'm not entirely happy but it will do for now until I can decide what to do. I am going to speak to some paint people to see how good they think they can get a match and then I can possibly look into a repair rather than a full respray. 

    • Like 2
  3. Hi all... I  have picked up a very nice Xotic XJ ProVintage 5 string recently (the build in Indonesia and assembled in USA ones...). I bought it from Bass Direct knowing it had damage to the finish in the bottom corner where the knobs are and luckily, it is just damage to the finish - not the wood beneath. Some of you may have seen it on their website - i took a risk as I got it at a good price. Not good enough for me to hand it over and pay for a complete strip and repaint, but good enough that I can treat it as a project and get it better than how it is now.

     

    It's the lake placid blue finish which I really like: 

    image.thumb.png.c9e1190601c0b731765c18cb250afa9f.png

     

    So the idea would be to speak to Xotic, see if I can get some paint, strip the damage and repaint probably doing the prep myself and taking it somewhere to get it painted. Alternatively, do the prep work myself and key the rest of the body, get some lake placid blue from somewhere and paint the damage and blow over the rest of the guitar to a good finish. I assume it will need a lacquer as well.

     

    Alternatively, as it has the same body wood as the natural finish version, do I strip and oil / finish the wood so it's a natural finish. 

    image.thumb.png.26481dc15f9f7f260412af7ebd369b39.png

     

    I'm aware that guitar builders use the 'best' bodies for natural finish, so it will be pot luck as to the grain / look of the wood but I am hoping for the best on this front. The plus side is that I enjoy a good bit of woodwork, could do it all myself and would aim to sand flat, get rid of all the paint and get it nice and smooth. Then possibly oil or probably wax and wax then buff to a satin kind of look.

     

    What do people think? I don't have the dosh for a complete re-finish professionally and I am aware of it looking like a bodge so the strip may be the way to go. Can anyone offer any advice or personal experiences? Thanks for any advice!

  4. Sire V7 version 2 gen 2 (I think it's gen 2) in burgundy mist - lovely condition, minor marks on the top of the headstock and one dink on the body (as per pics) which is a factory dent as there isn't any mark on the paint from what I can see.

    Great bass - i just have really trouble with the control layout and that stops me from playing it. I have looked into replacing the electrics but I would rather put that money into an upgrade instead. 

    I have it in a Mono bass sleeve which I could do a deal on with the bass - I would just like back what I paid for it which is £350. As I say, the Mono case would be additional.

    Collection or postage - I have some packing material so can courier at cost.

    I will be sad to see it go but needs must. Plus we all get a bit bored with what we have at times don't we! 

    Feel free to ask question... I am away for a week so won't be able to do anything for a week but will respond to messages and enquiries.

     

    Carl.

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    • Like 5
  5. The Old Smoothie was one of the original Stingray prototypes, definitely not a classic with a different pickup although I get the similarities. 

    Since its introduction in 1976, the Music Man StingRay has been embraced as one of the world's classic electric bass designs. To celebrate, Ernie Ball Music Man is proud to introduce the 40th Anniversary "Old Smoothie" StingRay, a faithful reproduction of StingRay prototype #26, designed for Sterling Ball during his time spent testing and developing the original prototypes back in the 70's. Named for its smooth even tone that is reminiscent of the highly sought after vintage Music Man StingRay sound, "Old Smoothie" has been precisely reproduced including the one-of-a-kind custom made 10 pole piece pickup design, body headstock and pickguard shape, 34-inch scale maple neck and fingerboard, low profile narrow frets, hardware, and active electronics. New finish options for 2017 include Butterscotch and Mint Green.

    https://www.music-man.com/instruments/basses/old-smoothie

  6. Hi everyone... I love a 70s jazz look. Natural body, black blocks and binding... But i don't really gig 4 string basses at all but would like a cheap one sitting around when I fancy having a noodle...

     

    I am liking the HB JB-75 vintage series and I know people have played around with re-shaping the headstocks to make them look like the early 50s p basses... anyone tried it with the normal fender headstocks?

     

    Are all the HB headstocks the same? I have a SR5 clone and i can print a template and check it against that... Anyone got any ideas or tried it?

     

    Much love to the BC community!

  7. So... here is my modified HB - MB5... My aim was to try and create a unlined (almost) looking fretless 5 - plus I also wanted a bit of a project.

     

    So, ripped the frets out, filled with a dark veneer, sanded flat and laquered the fingerboard. I was going to do an Epoxy coat but ran out of patience... plus I already had the lacquer from North West Guitars - although I forget this was a tinted one which is why the inlay dots look yellow!

    Used a vinyl wrap on the headstock and added a MM SR5 decal. Added the same wrap to the scratchplate.

    Routed out a battery box on the back and added a Warman MM5 pup with the Artec SE2a volume, blend and stacked treble and bass controls. Bit of a bugger to fit but did go in eventually! I am using the blend to select individual coils or both together in parallel - no series on this unfortunately but something I may try and add at a later date! 

    As a fretless it play great - plenty of mwah. Not the most precise finish (I would have liked a better finish on the fretboard) but hey - it's strung with flats and even they soon start eating away at the finish. I like the active system, gives a lot more control than the VVT passive loom it came with and the Warman is a big improvement on the original pup for not much cash. Oh, and I also found a cheap set of chrome sire tuners I chucked on as well. Eventually, I will change the bridge to chrome and possibly the control plate but who knows. I see this as a long term mod! I like it though - some may not, some may prefer the stealth look but I like the white breaking up the matt black. I do wish I had used a non tinted lacquer though - maybe when it gets a bit work I will re-sand and re-finish.

    HB1.thumb.jpg.40a09c3c418d83b007dff27a1f518ee3.jpg

    HB2.jpg

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    • Like 3
  8. Thanks for your reply @itu

    I was aware that I needed to replace the jack for a TRS jack, I figured I could test it first to make sure all was working, but will get that sorted as a matter of course…

    the battery is ok, the box I ordered was wired black positive and red negative for some reason and I double checked this with a multimeter. 
    I have re-done the solder contacts on the blend pot, hopefully making better contact. 
    can I ask what you meant by “the green wire may be a bit cold”? And are you talking about lead free solder? 
    hopefully sorting the jack end will fix things otherwise I am running out of ideas…

    to clarify, is it just a standard TRS jack I need? That will short the out and sw connections together when a jack plug is plugged in?

  9. Hi... I am modding a Harley benton MM style bass and changing out electronics and pups. The electronics are the Artec SE2:

     

    http://artecsound.com/pickups/electronics/se2.html

     

    and I have the Warman MM5 pickup installed. The SE2 system is active with volume, blend, treble and bass tone controls. The blend is not normally integrated in this kind of setup I know, but I figure, what the hell! Leave it in... Anyway...

     

    The Warman pup wiring is: 

    Black = start / negative of coil 1

    White = finish / positive of coil 1

    Red = start / negative of coil 2

    Green = finish / positive of coil 2

    The pickup comes pre-wired in series with the red and white wires, that link the two coil banks, ready joined.

     

    So... On the Artec blend PCB there is a front pup hot(1), rear pup hot(2) and combined ground. I wired is the White to hot(1) and the green to hot(2) and combined the red, black and shield to the ground connection. It is working but there is a horrible sound which sounds a lot like a grounding issue. Have I ballsed this up?

     

    I did a continuity test across all ground connections and all seems fine there and looked around and can't see anything untoward... can someone help? I hate being beaten but I really need some help here...

     

    Thanks! Carl.

  10. This came from a Harley Benton MB-5 that I am modding - perfect for a project bass, everything needed to get started.

     

    MM Stringray 5 style pickup - as new with screws

     

    VVT Loom (no output jack I'm afraid)

     

    3 Black push fit knobs

     

    I will include a sketched wiring diagram with the stuff so the buyer can put it back together again. Price includes postage.

    old pickup.jpg

  11. 2 hours ago, Bassman666 said:

    I picked up a version 2 V7 a few weeks ago as I've heard many good things and was very curious. IMHO it's a stunning bass even before you consider how little they cost (I paid £350 mint condition). I fully agree that the control plate is very busy and the controls are abit too close, although I think the stock preamp sounds great and is very useable. I don't think much would be gained by swapping it, it may make it sound different which some people would interpret as better, however it sounds like a jazz bass with the option of active eq. What's not to like?! 😁

    It isn’t really a question of not liking it, it’s more from a practical angle of live use. 
    I just find it too much for use on stage, fine tune adjustments I find are difficult. 
    I like the passive tone, but I find when I adjust it live I inevitably affect the volume control which is stacked on top… small changes admitted, but live it’s like - where is my volume gone!?

    it is a versatile piece of kit, and if I change it I will probably sell it to recoup some cash and considering it is a drop in option and people seem to like them, I wouldn’t be surprised if someone snaps it up as a viable cheaper alternative to an east or Sadowsky drop in option…

    • Like 1
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