
cameltoe
Member-
Posts
1,520 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Shop
Articles
Everything posted by cameltoe
-
[quote name='Dingus' timestamp='1389210219' post='2331470'] Ah, that is a bit unusual on a budget bass. This is, at best, going to be a pain in the arse to repair for someone. Fingerboards are usually stuck on with animal glue that comes unstuck under heat lamps and with steam. Hopefully the headstock plug is stuck in the same way but it might be a bit harder to get out and then access the truss rod . Get it a good luthier and see what they say, but you are probably talking hundreds of quid to fix this, I'm sorry to say. I really hope I am wrong about that though. . [/quote] Yup, but the JV's were built to pre-CBS specs, so in theory the same as a real '57 in regards to basic construction. I've contacted Graham Parker, as it looks like he has the stewmac kit as Howie mentioned above. Here's hoping!
-
[quote name='Dingus' timestamp='1389190036' post='2331081'] A skilled luthier can whip off the fingerboard and access the rod with no problem, if necessary. This is , however, usually a pretty expensive job, as are most truss rod replacement scenarios, in my limited experience of these matters. You may have to make the decision over whether this bass is worth sinking a few hundred quid into in order to fix , I am sorry to say. I will keep my fingers crossed you get a better-than-expected diagnosis from the repairman. [/quote] It's a one- piece neck, so no seperate fingerboard. Truss rod may be able to exit the way it went in, through the walnut dowel on the headstock.
-
'57 Precision bass truss rod construction/replacement
cameltoe replied to cameltoe's topic in Repairs and Technical
Yep buddy, and replied to! As I suspect the truss may have been a bit dodgy to begin with, I'm going to see if this approach is possible first, so the original truss can be replaced. If not I'm going to go that route. Either way I'm going to give him a shout. Thanks bud! -
[quote name='Bassassin' timestamp='1389099855' post='2329840'] Yep - Grant was a music shop in Glasgow who imported & distributed their own line. My first bass was a Grant. Awful, it was. J. [/quote] I've still got a Grant Les Paul copy in my shed!
-
Hi Guys, As has been covered elsewhere on the forum, I recently became the owner of a 1983 JV series Precision bass, which within a week, snapped it's truss rod. The truss has sheared at the heel, just under the truss nut, leaving part of the rod still inside the nut. I have a few options, the most obvious being to bin the neck. I don't really want to do this as these instruments are becoming collectable, and this would lower the value. The other option, is to find a luthier (mine doesn't) who has access to this Stewmac kit, which in theory l[i]ooks[/i] as if it would work: [url="http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for_Truss_rods/Truss_Rod_Rescue_Kit.html"]http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for_Truss_rods/Truss_Rod_Rescue_Kit.html[/url] The last option is to try and replace the truss rod. I had all but ruled this out as I figured this would be the most expensive option, but decided on googling the construction of one-piece neck truss rods. From what I can gather, the skunk stripe covers the truss rod channel that is routed into the neck. The truss rod is then inserted from the headstock end, with the anchor being held in place here under the walnut plug. If this is the case, can the faulty truss be removed from the headstock end? Obviously the walnut plug would need to come out, but that would hopefully be a much smaller job compared to some of the other options currently on the table. If so, then a new rod could be reinserted from here, without the need to remove the skunk stripe? I found this article, which I hope would apply to my Precision. [url="http://magneticmotorworks.com/hello/ErlewineVGM.pdf"]http://magneticmotorworks.com/hello/ErlewineVGM.pdf[/url] Being a JV series P, these were made to pre-CBS blueprints, so I would assume (hope) they stayed true to the original truss rod design. It is needless to say a one-piece neck with skunk stripe and walnut plug. If this idea will work in theory but may be very difficult, I would consider the risk acceptable as a first step to try and salvage this neck- if it doesn't work, it's a case of replug the headstock, and try the stewmac repair kit. If anyone can confirm or deny any of the above i'd be very grateful. Thanks in advance
-
[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1389117198' post='2330256'] cameltoe, I've just been browsing online and there's a luthier in Lewisham, London who has that truss rod repair tool - stories here about truss rod repairs [url="http://grahamparkerluthier.com/tag/truss-rod/"]http://grahamparkerl.../tag/truss-rod/[/url] and links on his site so you can make contact if you think he can sort your bass out. [/quote] That's awesome, thanks- I will give him a shout. [quote name='Dingus' timestamp='1389119395' post='2330291'] I'm very sorry to hear about this mishap, and rest assured, this bass is fixable, the only question is how much it will cost and if it is worth doing in light of that expense . It may be that a replacement neck may lessen the collectability of the bass dramatically, but makes the most sense in terms of cutting you losses and giving you a great bass - maybe even a better bass- to play and use. [/quote] Yes that's gone through my mind a lot- I'm going to pursue repair for a while until I have a rock-solid diagnosis and price and will then have to make a decision accordingly. i'm going to start a thread on the repair section, as I've been googling a lot regarding the construction of these early truss rods, and from what I can tell, the truss rod would have been inserted at the headstock end, with the truss anchor held in place under the walnut plug. If the truss can be removed from here and a new one inserted, it would be the best outcome I could hope for.
-
[quote name='Dom in Somerset' timestamp='1389082584' post='2329582'] It is possible to replace a truss rod, it requires removing the board, not for the feint hearted, I've done it but I put a fretless board on , I didn't replace the original. [/quote] Tis a one piece maple neck- would it be possible to remove it through the skunk stripe at the back?
-
I've had a good look around google the past few days and I'm fairly convinced the stewmac truss repair kit would be the place to start with trying to fix it. This is the kit- http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for_Truss_rods/Truss_Rod_Rescue_Kit.html Does anybody know a UK luthier that has this kit??
-
I'm paying for it now.
-
Not a priority at the moment I'm afraid- I have truss rod issues
-
Bell and what??
-
Very nice! For me it would be a weekend in Prague and as many hookers as I could afford, but each to their own
-
+1 on L2000, great basses IMO and a seemingly infinite number of options.
-
[quote name='Hobbayne' timestamp='1388921211' post='2327566'] I have always played a Fender Precision and have absolutely no interest in playing anything else. [/quote] I pretty much only GAS over fenders.
-
[quote name='Hobbayne' timestamp='1388921211' post='2327566'] I have always played a Fender Precision and have absolutely no interest in playing anything else. [/quote] +1 million! If only they would bring out a '57 RI with VINTAGE CORRECT 1 5/8 nut width!! I love everything about '57 style basses except the ridiculously wide fretboards. Where did 1 3/4 even come from?
-
This one won't, unless I can sort it! I'm going to wait to see what my Luthier says, if he can't repair or replace it I thought it might be an idea- as he's local- to send a friendly email to John Elliott to see if he could replace the truss rod? Surely if anyone can, he can. Just depends if he's willing. Otherwise I'll ask Mansons, and if they can't help, I guess its a new neck.
-
Needless to say I couldn't give a toss about the shim now!! The rod has sheared with a bit still screwed into the nut. Obviously the rod was defective, as it was hard to turn and was not keeping tension in the neck once it had resettled, but looking back now I'm thinking could I have just lived with it? Seriously, can a rod be replaced? Skunk-stripe neck.
-
Here's hoping my luthier has got one of these; http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for_Truss_rods/Truss_Rod_Rescue_Kit.html That looks like it would work as mine has sheared right where the nut ends. Otherwise maybe somewhere like Mansons would have this kit and be able to carry out the repair.
-
[quote name='Thunderbird' timestamp='1388931886' post='2327727'] Oh dear whoops hope you get it sorted but I think the neck is now mullered [/quote] Not exactly full of optimism but thanks anyway Paul! Hoping my Luthier may be able to do something with it. I really don't want to have to get a new neck.
-
Right guys, I've taken your advice and tried to straighten out the truss rod a bit more. It looked fairly good before, but I thought I would see if I could get the neck a touch straighter. The truss was very tight to move, 1/4 turn then left a few hours to settle made no discernible difference to relief, so I tried again with 1/2 turn. Left overnight, no difference. Both times it appeared to have moved ok on retuning, but when settled had returned to as it was before. Tried one more 1/2 turn, left to settle, same result. Removed the neck fully last night, released the truss nut completely and greased, re-tightened truss again and it snapped. Seriously. It's sheared off right under the truss nut. Holy f*** If someone has any helpful advice right now, or just an optomistic comment I'd love to hear it as I'm feeling this could be damage beyond repair and I've just destroyed my new bass. I can't believe it.
-
[quote name='Hobbayne' timestamp='1388924130' post='2327603'] I thought it was gonna be cleaned up. restrung and given a good setup? Its the same ad with a higher starting price! (Which would cost more in fees to post the ad) [/quote] Beat me to it! You're right, it's the same ad just with a higher starting price so it will either not sell, or sell at the price it would have beforehand anyway!
-
I thought she was going to clean it up and sort it out? Looks the same just more expensive
-
No the relief is set perfectly now, how I would consider it to be anyway. What I was considering is if removal of the shim and the resulting change in neck pitch would drop action at the 8th relative to the 15th. Above post states it will raise action especially at the higher frets- This is what I was wondering- if the higher frets are affected more by removing the shim, then this will allow a lower action at 8th due to increased clearance higher up.