henry norton

[quote name='Chris2112' post='1330109' date='Aug 6 2011, 05:46 PM']I suspect it's just as much due to the price of the material and the shrinking profit margin, really. Or will you be telling him he is wasting his time making the Stealth basses and the graphite Kingbass and S2 models?[/quote] The cost of woven carbon fibre is relatively small in comparison to the cost of labour to make a musical instrument (or the cost of AAA tonewoods for that matter), so I suspect it's not for reasons of economy. As for the basses themselves, I've always liked the 'classic' Status basses, that doesn't mean I can't have an opinion about how they're designed or made. That's the reason we're playing electric basses in the first place.

[quote name='Chris2112' post='1330073' date='Aug 6 2011, 05:13 PM']I think you're clearly the one who doesn't understand the materials, you say as much at the start of your post. With a graphite body or neck you get light weight, high structural rigidity and strength and tonal benefits. Take a graphite neck. It's stable because it's so tough, it's light because they're usually hollow and it imparts a wonderful tone. In fact, I remember Rob Green of Status Graphite saying that he believed graphite colours the sound less than wood, so you're actually getting a 'purer' tone! I used to have a Status Stealth bass which was a monocoque design, essentially a one piece carbon fibre bass. It was very light and it sounded fantastic. Consider that carbon fibre costs a lot more for luthiers to work with than wood - they are not choosing it to be different, they are choosing it because they consider it superior in it's application to wood. Hence why Status don't make wooden necks anymore. Hence why Zon's wooden neck range are their budget basses. etc etc. I currently have a Status Series II, a 1980's model with a proper graphite 'cricket bat' through neck. It sounds amazing; so clear, powerful and even. Even the new Status S2 basses don't sound like that because there is less carbon fibre in them now. I'll have a fretless bass coming soon with a woven graphite neck and I can't bloody wait![/quote] Ahhh the flamessssss!!!!!!!!!! Actually I do understand the materials which is why I found the Status S2, Steinberger, Alembic and Modulus necked Precision to be much heavier (so far as I was concerned), they needed to be. As it is, I had a look at Big Red X's list and it looks like a few makers are now using thinner structural skins (like the Gus I mentioned), so I stand corrected there, but I don't believe some of the earlier makers did really understand just how much lighter they could have made their instruments. I feel somewhat vindicated by your own admission that the later S2s have less carbon fibre in them, presumably because Rob Green has realised he dosesn't need as much! I hope the bloody wait is bloody worth it

Steel rods add quite a weight to a neck so if your body design is marginal you could end up making it neck heavy. I don't use stiffening rods because of this and the fact that if a bit of wood is going to twist a couple of bits of thin steel won't stop it. It's much better to find decent, dried wood in the first place. Warmoth claim the steel rods eliminate dead spots - I've never had many problems with that either but I suppose if you're running off thousands of necks there must be one or two that come out a bit off colour, so it might make sense to them in that way.

[quote name='XylemBassGuitar' post='1330038' date='Aug 6 2011, 04:36 PM']What's the idea/benefit behind having a graphite body? I know graphite is more stable than wood, but is it lighter too? Do they supposedly change the tone?[/quote] Yeah I've often wondered that. Considering the strength/weight/stability advantage you get when carbon composite is done properly I've always been disappointed how heavy and primitive most carbon guitars I've tried have been (although I've never tried the woven carbon composite skinned Gus guitars, which look like a better of the material). At the risk of being flamed, it makes me think most luthiers making guitars out of composites don't really understand the materials they're working with.

Oui, bienvenue! Toi langue c'est tres bien. J'habite le France pour cinq annee mais mon Francais c'est terrible. Tu comprend?????

Holy Mothers! that looks fantastic. I'd be well impressed with that on any level but knowing I had a bit of an input makes me feel right proud The finishers have done a nice job too - bursts are difficult to do at the best of times but black on white is one of the trickiest to get right. You must be well pleased.

[quote name='StevieD_FenderP2009' post='1324336' date='Aug 2 2011, 03:03 PM']Hey dude Yeah I just actually saw the thread you are on about. To be honest, I thought they were guitar pick ups when I tried it. I haven't got the bass home yet as I'll be picking it up on saturday. That's really cool of you to post the dimensions of the pick ups and hopefully this will be a big help. I'm not worried about having new pickups rings made (as it means I could get more chrome fitted haha) When I do get it home, i'll take one of the pickups out and check over the dimensions of the pick up routes to see if it's the same as the dimensions of the Thunderbucker Ranch website. I never know, it may even sound good with the stock pick ups through my rig (but after reading some of the things in the previous thread, I really doubt that) I'll give you an update once the bass is picked up and I'll upload a sound sample/video on to here.[/quote] The Schaller bass humbucker is a standard guitar size [url="http://bass-pickups.com/hp135071/Artikel-Liste.htm?ITServ=CY493a0929X131993d2cfbXY301d"]Click on the Technical Drawing tab[/url]. They're good pickups, I think they went a bit out of favour because they were associated with BC Rich heavy metal type instruments but I use 'em and like 'em. You can even get chrome covers for them if you want to keep the 'classic' look.

[quote name='StevieD_FenderP2009' post='1324336' date='Aug 2 2011, 03:03 PM']Hey dude Yeah I just actually saw the thread you are on about. To be honest, I thought they were guitar pick ups when I tried it. I haven't got the bass home yet as I'll be picking it up on saturday. That's really cool of you to post the dimensions of the pick ups and hopefully this will be a big help. I'm not worried about having new pickups rings made (as it means I could get more chrome fitted haha) When I do get it home, i'll take one of the pickups out and check over the dimensions of the pick up routes to see if it's the same as the dimensions of the Thunderbucker Ranch website. I never know, it may even sound good with the stock pick ups through my rig (but after reading some of the things in the previous thread, I really doubt that) I'll give you an update once the bass is picked up and I'll upload a sound sample/video on to here.[/quote] The Schaller bass humbucker is a standard guitar size [url="http://bass-pickups.com/hp135071/Artikel-Liste.htm?ITServ=CY493a0929X131993d2cfbXY301d"]Click on the Technical Drawing tab[/url]. They're good pickups, I think they went a bit out of favour because they were associated with BC Rich heavy metal type instruments but I use 'em and like 'em. You can even get chrome covers for them if you want to keep the 'classic' look.

Wasn't the original Steinberger one-piece carbon fibre moulding?

[quote name='mashup' post='1316046' date='Jul 25 2011, 06:17 PM']So, i am going to try out a couple of P basses tomorrow, with the intention of buying 1. Just out of interest, which 1 would you choose? (1) Fender 60th Anniversary Precision Bass (New) (2) Nash PB-75 (Used) Thanks, Mat[/quote] The Nash would hold its' value better than the Fender (unless you mothballed it for 30 years), but like JLP said, if you're reasonably handy you could put together a comparable distressed P clone for allot less, although I would spend the change on another bass or amp. Alternatively, I'll build you a distressed Precision clone for £1,198 and you can spend the change on a lottery ticket

[quote name='BigRedX' post='1314481' date='Jul 24 2011, 09:44 AM']2. A manufacturer who can figure out how to shave off at least 50% of the current production price without affecting the quality.[/quote] It's called manufacturing in China It's true that there hasn't been much real innovation since the early 80's but changes in predominant instruments are more to do with fashion than innovation anyway. The chances are the instruments everyone will be using in 10 years time will be whatever's cool rather than whatever's the most technologically advanced.

[quote name='BigRedX' post='1314021' date='Jul 23 2011, 06:02 PM']Most people will still be playing Fenders and moaning the new ones don't have the same vibe as those made before 2000...[/quote] HaHaHa!!!! Classic home truth! If I have anything to do with it we'll see not only Fenders but shorter scale basses alongside them - players making use of different scales, constructions types and strings for different vibes in place of all these thru neck, double soapbar, active, laminated exotic wood 'superbasses'. I think the one bass fits all will make way for a more organic, character based approach. Oh, and solid finishes will become more dominant in place of exotic woods under thick, clear lacquer. I think it's got to the point where so many makers are trying to make one bass for all occasions there's bound to be a backlash. Asides from that, Fender clones won't always have to be 34" scale with strictly utilitarian features - exotic woods and fancy electronics asides, there's still some development room left for the humble passive J, P Etc. As for amps, well.............. and DB's, let me tell you.............. Not that I'm touting my business or anything

[quote name='BigRedX' post='1312350' date='Jul 22 2011, 08:52 AM']Warwick's current philosophy on custom models seems to be following that of the small-time luthier who proudly proclaims that they will build you anything you want, and like them the end result may be a fine example of woodworking skills, but taste and ergonomics rarely enter into it.[/quote] Ahh, cutting, but very true...

Zowie!!!

I've had my eye on a couple of his pickups for a while now. I've never played one but it sounds like they're a fairly authentic copy of the originals, and if you want a complete original T.Bird, it might easily cost you more than a new Lull, vintage prices being what they are.

[quote name='aldude' post='1303640' date='Jul 14 2011, 03:35 PM']Longer scale?[/quote] Indeed, if the tension is higher than your other basses it must have a longer scale length, unless the strings are harder to fret because the action is higher, making it feel like the strings have more 'tension'.

[quote name='Prime_BASS' post='1302906' date='Jul 13 2011, 09:41 PM']A lot of bassists come from the standpoint of low end holding[/quote] Isn't that what a bass is for? Especially a Precision... Jaco Harmonics and Stanley slapping asides of course, which presumably the Wal would be more suited to.

[quote name='jonannlou' post='1300534' date='Jul 12 2011, 01:17 AM']Hi all - bit of help please! Is it possible to fix a dead spot on a through neck bass? I think I have a slightly 'u' shaped neck, but barely noticeable. The bass has an unusual tension as its makes the strings fairly stiff, I have to use a string size down to make it feel like my normal 30-90's... The bass has a great tone and some even have commented that it sounded better than my old Status S1, so I'm a bit reluctant to get rid of it! But to get rid of alot of fret buzz I have to raise the action higher than I want to, I like a bit of fret buzz, but not too much! I've fixed the intonation and set up the neck to the best of my abilites, which is fairly ok, but as I have no extra funds to put towards another bass I really don't know what I could get in the 150-200 range that would compete.... Any ideas? Thanks in advance J[/quote] Whoaahh!! Hold on before you go clamping overpriced weights to your headstock (or cheap G clamps for that matter). From the wording in your post it sounds like you're suffering from the string choking because of uneven or worn frets. There's a big difference between that and a tonal dead spot, which is actually quite rare and usually fairly subtle on an electric bass wherein the strings play ok apart from one or two positions when all the life and 'ring' seems to go out of the note. Bad fretting has only one proper cure, that's a proper levelling and set up. Genuine dead spots can be sorted by something as simple as a change of strings as it's to do with resonance but I wouldn't attempt any kind of cure 'til the bass was set up correctly.

[quote name='buff' post='1302108' date='Jul 13 2011, 11:18 AM']Thats answered a few question's and caused a few arguements as well Have had a jazz with a MM emg in the bridge position but it didnt really give that sound, so the pre amp does help also. Had a MM but found the neck to wide, so i wont be getting a MM in the forseable future.[/quote] That's probably because the classic Stingray pickup position [u]isn't[/u] next to the bridge like your 'Jazz with a MM in the bridge position' was. Look at the position of the pickup on a single Humbucker Stingray and you'll see it's way back from the bridge, possibly far enough to clash with a Precision route (close to anyway). There have certainly been a fair few moans from Stingray HH players about not really nailing 'that' sound as the bridge pickup is too close to the bridge and the neck pickup is too far away. Do you get what I mean......??????

Good plan although it would have to be pretty exact so as to not look gappy - also do your current crap MM copies have lugs on the outside?? Another fairly simple solution would be to get yourself a square of plastic and design yourself a nice scratchplate (otherwise known as a 'pickguard' to all the American wannabees on the forum).

[quote name='Wolverinebass' post='1289884' date='Jul 2 2011, 09:40 AM']Finally got round to doing a picture. You may now see what I mean. Put my hand in for scale. I quite like the idea of a heelless join however. However, any thoughts on this, let me know.[/quote] You might be able to take that heel down by a half inch or so as long as the slot is supposted well on the other side but that probably won't resolve this issue for you as you'll still have something of a heel in the way. Short of some major (expensive) surgery you really need to look elsewhere if you want a shallow neck all the way up.

[quote name='xgsjx' post='1289540' date='Jul 1 2011, 08:44 PM'][url="http://www.ritter-instruments.com/item_info.php?i=295"]Budget bolt on.[/url] [/quote] I like Ritter's basses, even this stupid, blingy more money than sense version but why oh why, after spending a shed load of time and money on custom made hardware does he go and install a crappy Stratocaster jack plate????????????????? ON THE BACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Back on topic Dammit! If the heel is the only thing that's causing you problems I would shop around for a bass with the right heel and not worry too much about the neck fixing. I've seen a few bolt ons and set necks that have virtually no heel and also a few thru necks with heels that wouldn't look out of place on a Precision. If you've got some cash, shop around. I build mainly set necks because I just like the way they look and feel - I certainly don't do it for sonic superiority, that's why we spend money on decent pickups and strings

Just to dip my oar in, there is allot of bullsh#t surrounding different neck joints. In spite of what allot of makers will tell you, the chances are most wouldn't be able to tell much difference between one type and another in a blind test. That said, neck thru will more likely give you good access up in the high register if you find the right design. It will be more usable if you use an 8 saddle bridge [url="http://www.warmoth.com/Schaller-471-8-String-C724.aspx"]Schaller 8 string[/url], but whatever neck joint you have, it'll be pretty out of tune past the 7th or 8th fret if you can't adjust the intonation of the octave strings.

You can get them for under £450 if you shop around on the internet.

The review on BGM a couple of months ago was very good. It's difficult to find a double cutaway, semi solid, short scale bass anywhere this side of some nasty, cheap fleabay offerings or having to go for a used Starfire/Rivoli/EB-2.