mrjim

I just used the cheapest from the local auto shop which was a combination of Carplan acrylic primer and colour coats. I then had to use Granville acrylic clear as they didn’t have any carplan clear in stock! Regarding paint volumes, if you read through the reranch 101 [url="http://reranch.com/101.htm"]http://reranch.com/101.htm[/url] and [url="http://reranch.com/solids.htm"]http://reranch.com/solids.htm[/url] It will explain it all in detail but it is basically one can of colour and at least 2 cans of clear (third permitting if you can afford it...) Just don’t spray a whole can in one go, I could get about 4-5 coats from one 400ml can.

I would only use nitro with other on its own i.e. not mixing with other products; it will react with most things. As far as acrylic goes it [i]could[/i] be overlaid with other products as it’s more stable - however there is no definite answer. If you were to take a chance I would test compatibility on scrap wood before spraying on a primed body. As regards overcoating with Rustins or 2k stuff I would be cautious if you are going for a block colour. I know Rustins Plastic Coating uses an acid based hardener which can affect the underlying colour. I think people mainly use it for clear or stained finishes (e.g. Brian May’s guitar). There’s no harm in experimenting as long as you use scrap wood but I’ve found acrylic finishes to be hard enough. You can still dent/chip an acrylic finish but I can also damage super thick poly finishes as well!

[quote name='LawrenceH' post='878848' date='Jun 27 2010, 02:24 PM']Thanks, yes that's what I was wondering. Good to hear you can get a glass-like finish. Do you sand between coats or do most/all of that after the final clear coat?[/quote] I did not sand between coats. Just after the final clearcoat. You should be aiming to spray a lot of light coats anyway (this also helps with the curing process)

[quote name='Dusty' post='878242' date='Jun 26 2010, 04:20 PM']Cant believe it.... went past tthe same crack converters today and the beast was still there..... so made them a offer !!! after a bit more haggling.. got them to throw in a hardcase they had in there and walked out of the shop with it for under £300. Plays really well and feels right... if you know what I mean. Will make a great 'Pub' bass [/quote] Do cash converters expect you to haggle with them? I’ve occasionally seen a decent bass or two but it never occurred to me to haggle. Is there a percentage you can reasonably expect to be knocked off?

Also if you are going to strip the existing finish back to the bare wood then depending on the type of wood, you may need to grainfill and then apply sanding sealer to stop your finish sinking into the wood.

I've successfully finished home builds using acrylic aerosol paints as well. Go to your local halfords and you will be able to get good variety of colours to choose from. I found halfords to be a bit more expensive than my local auto shop (£7 vs. £3 for the same stuff) but I was only after black paint which is more likely to be stocked by the smaller independents. All of the paints I used claimed to include UV inhibitors which are supposed to stop the paint from yellowing (I don’t know if you can buy them without. I couldn’t see any). I would recommend spraying about 4-5 colour coats then spraying at least 12 topcoats of acrylic clear. You need to spray so many coats because when you come to buff and polish the paint, you’ll take off quite a few players of paint. I managed a nice glassy finish using this method. Metallics are a bit harder than plain colours. Rather than explain it all, your best source of info would be to browse though the rerannch forum: [url="http://reranch.com/reranch/"]http://reranch.com/reranch/[/url] Although they deal with American products and talk about using nitro, the principles are the same. If this sounds like too much work try asking your local car sprayshop to spray it for you (if you have one!). I know people who have had success this way

[quote name='6stringbassist' post='871573' date='Jun 19 2010, 10:40 AM']If you want the black one I took off mine, you can have it . Just send me a stamped return envelope. Let me know and I'll PM you my address. I just think the tortie looks cool against the off white.[/quote] pm'd

i'm looking to buy an antique white jazz bass that is currently loaded with a white pickguard. I think i would prefer a black pickguard to add some contrast, but cant seem to find any photos of this combination. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Any other pickguard colours i should be considering? (Apart from tortie - dont like that at all!)

Still available

I've got a spare body from a Vintage V800 if anyone can find a use for it. It came as part of a complete bass i bought to salvage parts from, therefore it is just the body itself - no strap pins, no backplate everything has been used! The body does have a few marks on it and i've tried to show these in the photo's. Preference will be given to someone who can collect from Glasgow but if someone really wants to pay postage then i'll sort something out. [attachment=51966:100_2897.JPG] [attachment=51965:100_2896.JPG] [attachment=51964:100_2895.JPG] Any questions just ask...

What do people think of the Korean made Squiers? I'm looking at a late 90's Jazz but would like to know what people think. It's one of the "KV" squiers meaning it was made by the Saeham factory (who i'm told made the Vester brand of fender copies). Were squier still using plywood for their bodies that this stage or had they moved on to multi-piece hardwood bodies by this time? Any opinions appreciated...

[quote name='shinhoman' post='797191' date='Apr 6 2010, 08:30 AM'][url="http://www.graphtech.com/product-281-2/"]http://www.graphtech.com/product-281-2/[/url] like that one? ebay link to said nut: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Graphtech-PT1212-slotted-bass-nut-NEW_W0QQitemZ270287000423QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Guitar_Accessories?hash=item3eee5c5367"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Graphtech-PT1212-slo...=item3eee5c5367[/url] x[/quote] Thanks a lot! Out of interest, how can you tell it is not a fender type? - Is it the thickness of the nut that matters?

I'm needing an new nut for one of my basses but rather than it being a narrow nut that fits in a slot with the fingerboard on either side (ala Fender) i'm after a nut that sits joined to the end of the fretboard like a warwick. I've had a look at the usual websites without much luck - any ideas? (I have the feeling i'm missing something obvious) Can i use a fender type nut instead? I'm ideally looking for a graphite nut but would consider all options.

Have a look at this video. I found it really useful when i was deciding what pots to buy when renovating an old guitar: [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Df5kO9VxYcE"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Df5kO9VxYcE[/url] (I think there is a part 2 to watch as well) I ended up choosing alpha's. CTS ones appear to be built better and are a bit stiffer to turn but i dont use my pots all that much so it was not worth the extra cost for me. I dont expect you would actually hear any difference unless your old ones are scratchy. Changing the cap would make a small difference, but again only if you use the tone pot.

@waynepunkdude How do you find painting with this weather? I'm assuming you have somewhere indoors you can use spraypaint... I've had a project on hold since mid november cos its been too cold - its driving me mad!