mouthmw

Nothing digital is instant, not even Peterson. Turbo Tuner is technically analog, and a true strobe tuner, and therefore much faster.

Naaah, too high current draw.

Erm, no? Hey if it works for you, it works. But best? Let's be real here. If you really want the best, the fastest and the most accurate, there's only one answer - Turbo Tuner ST-300.

Broughton BBA at the start of my chain (to filter out subsonic and ultrasonic frequencies, say around below 20 Hz and above 20 kHz) and Broughton HPF at the end of my chain, which I usually set at 60 Hz. This gives me a gorgeous tight low end, and my live rig (GK 2001RB and 410 RBH) now sounds like a cleaned up sealed cab + amp. Perfect for vintage style P + flats tones. Great control for boomy rooms too.

I AB'd Jive with more expensive boutique pedals for that "on the verge of breakup" or "low gain" tone, but nothing sounded better than Jive to me. It's a keeper. That's with a P with flats and Stingray (3 band) with rounds.

It's a great pedal either way. The switches give you a nice option of different dirt tones. It's fairly versatile. I still love it mostly with no diodes active, but there are cool drive, distortion and synthy-like fuzz tones in there. I dig the third switch with an octave pedal - awesomely synthy.

Voltage and cancellation is an electrical thing, but ok, you do you. You can stack them to your heart's desire. They also stack with any other switch on any other pedal as well.

The one with the lower forward voltage cancels out the other. They're not designed to be stacked, ergo they do not stack. Any minuscule difference that the scope picks up is meaningless and I stand by when I say "they don't stack". Also, he's using an older version of Jive in that video (could be pre SMD, could be SMD), they used different clipping diodes in the past too, the QC is much better now that they went SMD and in this modern version, the diodes do not stack in any perceivable way. I'd avoid the pre SMD Jives tbh as the quality was pretty iffy.

You'll be able to test it yourself. I tried and heard absolutely no difference when using 2 clipping diodes together and using just one higher gain one. They don't stack in any meaningful way IMO - the DIY forum said that yes, technically they stack, but to no particular useful result. My findings with stacking confirmed that, but you should try it yourself. I use it with no diodes 99% of the time and it's my favorite low gain pedal, bar none. Excellent headroom and a great, saturated tone. I love it. EDIT: Here's a quote from one of the DIY builders: "The toggles are parallel and to some degree they could be mixed, but in general if you have 2 diodes in parallel in the same direction, the one with the lower forward voltage cancels out the other. (Quite a cool fact actually for making something like a rat with 3 clipping options, as you can do it with a simple on-off-on toggle, LEDs being always on and putting silicone or germanium in parallel.)"

Correct.

1 at a time. The lower one supersedes the one(s) above it. Due to the design (wired in parallel), they do not stack. The gainier one will always be the active one. This has been debated on the DIY pedals forum, and I'd take their word over youtubers as they know what they're talking about. Also, I have one myself and I've tested it. They do not stack.

This is how Sansamp was designed to be used. If you have a good amp & cab, you don't need any extra preamps muddying things up in front of it. Sansamp is excellent for sending an emulated amp&cab tone to FOH or for using it straight to audio interface to record or just jam with it.

Precisely. Higher headroom means it takes a stronger (louder) signal before it starts distorting / compressing. In some cases, the tone itself can feel bigger, more 3D, more expansive.

I just got JPTR FX Jive 2 days ago, and it's pretty much perfect for low gain tones / dirty boost needs. I also got the best synth tone in combination with my octaver when I used the third diode switch, better than other fuzz pedals I tried for that type of thing (but I never owned a gated type of fuzz which might work just as well or better, those aren't my cup of tea).

I have the Octabvre mkiii, and I've tested it against OC2, OC5 and MXR BOD. They don't sound the same. Octabvre mkiii won't get you that classic OC2 hollow tone, even with the tone all the way off and Tim switch engaged (for more lows). Octabvre has more mids and is more pronounced in the mix, sounds fuller, which I love. But it won't do that OC2 thing (which admittedly has a very infectious sound). I'd say MXR got closer to that tone (but not quite there either), and OC5 is almost identical to OC2 in vintage mode. I haven't even noticed latency with OC5 and you get more gain on tap compared to OC2. Once you start upping the tone on Octabvre, it really gets closer to Mutron and even further away from OC2. The gain on tap is fantastic on Octabvre, and you can easily solo the sub with its separate control. I didn't like tracking on MXR, and found Octabvre and OC5 to be pretty close tracking wise, but Octabvre to me remains the best tracking analog octaver. I've tested those pedals with my passive P bass and my 3 band Stingray.