Jimothey

Ooohhhh errrr missus 😁 It didn't look that big when the body was chequered??

I dont think I'm going to use the bridge cover as I'm not sure if it looks right??

Just a quick update, I've now finished spraying the front and the headstock, the back needs just 1 more coat then I'll leave it for a few days to dry then I'll be getting it all back together 😀

Stunning bass mate!! I'm scared of a fretless I can barely find the right notes on a fretted!! 😁

I agree with you I've sharpened chisels palm slapped and not and as you say there's no difference between the two it's just because I've done it that way for so long I now do it without thinking I'm the same I have tried nearly every different new technique but I do use the Diamond ones as they are really convenient to use as a quick thing when I'm out on site, the worst I've ever bought was the Trend fast-track what a waste of £50!!

Apart from the fact of you've got some stunning looking basses there! The main question I've got going through my head is HOW BIG IS YOUR SOFA!! 😁

I agree with what your saying re the burr but I can't see how just pulling the chisel backwards will remove the burr as the burr will be on the opposite edge to sharpened edge and if you keep on sharpening it it will eventually break the burr off anyway hence the palm slapping might save you time or do you mean then after sharpening turning the chisel over so the back is flush with the stone then pull backwards to remove the burr?? I got taught how to sharpen chisels and blades Inc palm slapping by a gentleman in his 80's with over 60 years cabinet making experience so who am I to question his technique and at the Good Woodworking show about 8 years ago Kevin Leys and Andy Standing did a masterclass on a few topics and 1 of them was Sharpening and that's the method they used to remove the burr so I don't know what to say maybe it's just the old "there's more than 1 way to skin cat" who can say which way is right or wrong if it works for you then that's all that matters 😀

I hope you don't think I was being funny with my last comment, I just meant what you said makes perfect sense and that I've been doing it a certain way for all these years which I thought was the right way to do it but you've opened my eyes to another method of sharpening 😀

I meant re the blade overheating when linishing not sharpening Good to know that I've been doing it wrong for almost 20 years!! 🙄

I must be a bit weird as I always take the burr off by slapping the chisel at an angle on my hand then the other way (it's a bit difficult to describe??) or by running the chisel edge downwards on the corner of a scrap bit of timber, well that's how I was taught by an old cabinet maker and to never go straight when sharpening always do a figure of 8 so to wear the stone evenly As far as honing compound you wouldn't use that at the end as honing is getting the chisel/blade to the correct angle or free from chips/dents before you sharpen it well that's what I've always thought anyway?? The compound I've used at the end is more to polish and stop the blade from getting too hot than a cutting compound?? 😀

Ebay has got the exact same block inlay stickers that come from Japan for £7.69 with free p&p instead of £12.20 off Amazon 😀

Your a braver man than me!! At the planning stage I would have decided to have a gin instead!! 😁

I've had a bit of a reaction with the paint on the body so I'm sorting it out but here's the neck anyway I'm still going to give a few more coats so it will go a bit darker 😀

I can't quite make out from the pic but are the blocks Zebrano or Wenge? Either way looks great better than pearloid or MOP IMHO! 😀

The AA yellow spray paint came out very orangey so I've bought some Sun Yellow instead which looks a lot better and I've used tinted Danish oil on the neck as I thought it would be a nice contrast with the yellow, I'm also doing a matching headstock I'll post pics tomorrow 😀

I'm looking for a Jazz neck to put on my P bass or my Tangocaster project What size heel has it got? And how much would you want for it?

I had to make one for my daughter to take to school! now she wants the real thing!!

After reading your earlier post I dug out my whetstone grinder (but I had lost my clamp bar when I moved so I had to make a new one) my version has got the leather linisher on it to polish the blade up afterwards the only difference I do to you is use and 1000grit oilstone Very informative and a great guide for people who don't have that much experience in sharpening!! 😀 Have you ever tried the Scary Sharp system as one of my mate swears by it and it does live up to the name!!

I'm sure there will be someone who can help, look on the repair and technical section and there's a list of BCers prepared the help fix a bass, find someone local to you and PM them 😀

That looks great!! I'm thinking if using that colour Danish oil on a warwick corvette style kit build that I'm hopefully gonna do but the body is Alder so I wonder how different the colour will come out? Was 0.5l enough for all the coats you did? 😀

Looks like a nice kit! What colour you thinking of? 😀

So far I've sorted the electrics, painted the pickguard and stripped the body I've got some AA Van yellow spray paint so I'll start spraying next week 😃

After @Norris said the pickguard looks a bit pointy for the shape of the bass it got me thinking so I made a paper template that I rounded the corners off to see how would look and I think it looks better (also Im liking it in white aswell) so good shout Norris!

I thought I was right but I just wanted to check thanks everyone Just out of interest how much do you charge for a standard P bass solderless wiring loom?

On all the diagrams I've looked at the white is the hot because it always goes to one of the terminals on the pot and the red goes to ground on the base of it? I've looked again at the pickups and I thought the unsleeved cable wraps round the red the whole length to the pickup but it only is wrapped round when it comes out of the sleeving of both cables it looks like it's just in the middle of the two?