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About jb90

  • Birthday December 6

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    Poland, EU

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  1. Than Thanks for reply. Does this ruler have 1/64's on it or only mm? Does it have hex key for Fender/Musicman bridges?
  2. Hi. I consider to buy some bass setup tools. I thought about CruzTools and Dunlop tools. CruzTools have even full bass set kit. Did you ever use their tools? Are they a good quality stuff or maby looking somewhere else? Thanks for any advice.


    1. acidbass


      Bought a great Cruztools set a few years ago.  Had everything I needed really for a great setup, except a tuner and radius gauges.  Recommended!

    2. Powertripper


      Had a CruzTools guitar tool set for years. Some of it is a bit rusty now, but good sturdy stuff, especially the handy little blue pocket multi-tool.

  3. Hi. I consider to buy some bass setup tools. I thought about CruzTools and Dunlop tools. CruzTools have even full bass set kit. Did you ever use their tools? Are they a good quality stuff or maby looking somewhere else? Thanks for any advice.
  4. For me? Only flats. But you don't like them so probablly I would choose EB Slinky strings. Not too bright and when they start to sound dull they have good hi-mids but overall sound mellow. But for the best results I would choose the best - DR, LaBella, Thomastik - both flats and rounds are the greatest on the market (imo). Just play them for good amount of time and make rounds dull quickly. Especially those cheapier ones like D'Addario or Slinky's dead very quick when you dig them well.
  5. Hi, Which pro tuner will be good for intonation settings and for everyday use (home and gig)? I have my old Boss TU-12 but it's so old that it just break after 15 years or more now! I need something very accurate to set properly intotnation but also good for pedalbaord. It will be good to hold B and C string too. Thanks


    1. ambient


      Peterson Strobostomp.

    2. MartinB


      Yeah, a strobe type like a Peterson or a Sonic Research Turbo Tuner is what you want for extreme accuracy

  6. Hi guys! Merry Christmas. Any thoughts how to get that bass sound? I have Musicman StingRay but I wanna buy a bass which gives me that kind of sound. Not too harsh not too mild, quite warm but not "Jaco" nasal mids. Just like in this video below. This sound imo is great for pop, r&b, gospel, soul, funk thing. Thanks in advance. Every detail tips will be helpful. 


  7. Hi. Any half-rounds/pressurewound strings users here? I have a couple of questions ;) I know that D'Addario and GHS make these ones but is there any other company that make HR/Pressurewound strings? How does it feel and how is a life of those strings compare to flats? I use exlusively flats since 8 years now but maby it's time to experiment a little bit but I need to know if their life is good because I don't wanna change my strings every month. I change my flats every 1-2 years but not less. Thanks in advance ;)

    1. Show previous comments  4 more
    2. Pow_22


      They wont/don't have the same life as flats.  My current flats are near 4yrs old and still have loads of life left.  Id say if you don't mind thump you could get a good few months out of the grounds, probably longer depending how 'dead' you like your strings?

    3. BaggyMan


      Depends on what you are after, I have groundwounds on my fretless but the last the same amount of time as roundwwounds.  Tapewounds last a lot longer but aren't able to give the bite the roundwounds string does imho (Boom! off goes the tapewounds vs roundwounds debate).  Tapewounds have a higher tesnion (requires a truss rod adjustment and feel different) Groundwounds dont in my experience.



    4. Soledad


      Agreed with short life. They are really flattened/smoothed rounds so they go off like rounds and you're left with strings that do not have the punch of decent flats. I used the D'Addarios briefly on a fretless and took them off, gave them away. Don't bother. I would recommend bright flats if it's the high mid & top you want. You won't get the full ring of rounds but a good top crunch. I use EB Cobalts and very happy. The set on my P are hard gigged and around 4 months old - I can see them staying how they sound now for ages. If I got 1 year I'd be very happy with that, you may get far longer.

  8. I think that you must accustomed to that. I used to use amps with mid knobs too but Handbox is the sound. I always hear myself clean and clear in any situation and bandmates and FOH guys just love my sound too. I think that BASS stands for bass and low mids and TREBLE stands for hi mids and highs. Handbox amps are pretty flat. With good cab you have anything you want. As Michael said if you wanna "scoop" just boost bass and treble accordingly. if you wanna more midrange it's bass and treble down and if you wanna more high mids then more bass down and when you need more low mids then just more treble down and that's all. I must tell you a secret As far as I talked with Leszek he don't wanna put midrange knobs in his amp to prevent loss in signal chain of the amps but he knows that bass players "complain" that there's no mid knobs on his amps. So he worked on some kind of "mid solution" for players like those "complainers" But it's always a sacrifice. He said to me that it change a sound a little bit but not so much and drastic to lost what he made with present construction. Leszek is very peaky so he hears every little change in signal chain and he is a fan of greatest possible sound but I think (and he said that too) that many players won't hear the change too much. So we must wait a little bit for this "improvement" (which still change sound for "a little bit" worse). But still Bass and Treble option will be available and it's the best option for getting this great quality and clean sound which Handbox have reputation for it.
  9. Hi guys. Quick question about capo for bass. I need something to hold the strings on the first fret so I can measure relief during bass setups. That's all. Simple "holder". Any thoughts and advices? What should I buy to get a solid capo with bass? I always use my left hand and right arm to press strings to the last fret but it's always a pain in the a** to get good and easy measurements. Thanks in advance.

  10. Hi guys. Any thoughts about how to choose better pickup and electronics for my Ernie Ball Musicman StingRay 4 3band eq? 
    I want more mids and less treble than in factory pickup and electronics. Which one will be best in my case? There's so much options on market and I almost always bump my mids and cut some treble on my Stingray so I need something that it will be more transparent and flat sounding or at least more mids and less treble. Thanks!

    1. Show previous comments  5 more
    2. Kiwi


      They're not as important for bassists as they are for guitarists.  Just get some pickups that can give you everything you want to hear.  Although bear in mind they're passive (therefore subtractive) in their effect which means they can take frequencies away but they can't add them.  Also, they are fairly coarse in how they respond so you can ask for a peak but it's quite wide in it's bandwidth, you can ask for highs to be taken away and added but if you add them then usually there is a sacrifice in warmth.  Conversely if you want warmth then you can get it but it means the pickup becomes woollier sounding - although that can be remedied to a small extent with magnet type (ceramics) and wire (thicker).  But where that leaves the mid peak you asked for after all the faff is anyone's guess.

      As for preamp, if you're nit picky then get something which gives you the control you want.  The frequency centres can be quite important for bass, mid and treble. 

      But if you are looking for a particular timbre (ie. how can I make this bass sound more like a Smith/Rickenbacker/Status/Alembic), neither will give it to you by themselves.  

    3. jb90


      @Higgie Great sound! I'm corious how it sounds in fretted StingRay but on your fretless there's a lot good growly mids which I like in bass. It's always give you sound that break through the mix. Thanks. And how you solve problem that the input jack is in different place than in original StingRay bass? 

    4. Higgie


      Check the John East site. He makes different versions depending on if you have a 2 band or 3 band Stingray. The 5 string has the jack on the side anyway so was just a direct drop in replacement for my bass.

  11. Hi guys. I have quick question about strings. I wanna try 55-110 EB Cobalt flatwounds or even "Jamerson set" LaBella for standard tuning. My question is: Are these strings are not too stiff and have too much tension to set them in standard? Will I have to cut nut slots more or factory cutted slots will be ok for so thick strings? I used to use 50-105 and everything was ok but I'm afraid that when I cut them more it will be too much for smaller gauge strings. 

    1. Shambo


      I've not yet tried the EB Cobalt flats, but I'm a fan of Jameson Labella's and I've been using them for years. I currently have them on two precisions and a jazz... and numerous others in the past. I've never needed to cut the nut, they fit just fine. I love the sound of TI Jazz flats but swapping between basses/strings and the differences in tension is disconcerting. When you get used to the extra tension of the Labellas, 'normal' strings start to seem a bit too floppy. The stiffness allows me to get the action a shade lower than I would with your average rounds, which means less pressure needed to fret, so for me these things even themselves out. They last for decades, sound great and mellow with age. I'd say try a set. You see used sets for sale occasionally on this forum. I don't understand "too much tension to set them in standard?", you might want to adjust the relief in the neck to suit, but you might want to do that for another brand of string. Good luck.

    2. pete.young


      You might do better to start a thread somewhere than use status updates.

  12. Dear all, If you have any problems with handbox amps, cabs or other gear please feel free to contact immediately with Leszek Brzozowski, the CEO of Handbox via facebook or email. FB: https://www.facebook.com/leszek.brzozowski.56 email: [email protected] Leszek reply almost immediately and knows his gear in and out so he can help immediately too. From my own experience (and I cooperate with Leszek sometimes too) most of the "failures" in amps are fuses, resistors and that kind small parts that sometimes just fail and it could happen. It's just a gear. But repair is almost always simple and can be done by you.. Of course if you know what to do. Most of the time just remove failure part and put on new or solder new resistor or whatever. But first what you should do is inform Leszek about your failures. Nobody on this forum can help you better with your Handbox gear than Handbox staff. The quality of Leszek's gear is impeccable and if something fail it could be only a small part which was just weak from start from the factory. And sometimes you can't predicted if the part is ok or not if you don't use it in the amp. I hope that make sense. Good luck!
  13. Hello. Is there any studio/sideman bass player here? ;) I want to ask what producers and engineers want from bass players today. I mean which basses, amps, effects and all king of gear is a must for session/studio player to provide the best demanding sounds and effortless quality in the stage/studio? Really need to change my gear to be most versatile for any scenario as possible. Many thanks! 

    1. Show previous comments  7 more
    2. ambient


      Follow someone like Dave Swift on Instagram. He posts details of his studio sessions most days, that'll give you an idea of what to expect. With regard to playing, they need you to nail the part as quickly as possible, maybe a couple of runs through first. You'll either be given chords written out, or maybe a part actually notated.

    3. Ramirez


      @jb90 My own basses are Fenders, and my passive P with old flatwounds sounds very good DI'd, and sites nicely in the mix for a lot more styles than you'd expect. I like Stingrays too - I don't think turning up with a Stingray is going to lose you work! Just make sure you are versatile in how you can play it, that's the main thing. You can cover most styles with a P, J, Stingray or variations on those themes. In fact, I'd probably be happy with a switchable active/passive PJ bass as my only bass!

      But perhaps old flatwounds are a good option to bring as well - as I said they can be far more versatile than one thinks.

      If its a good studio, chances are there will be some decent bass guitar options there as well - don't be offended if they prefer the sound of one of studio basses to your own, just enjoy the experience.

    4. AinsleyWalker


      Have a look at Dishan Abrahams, and the video he did with That Pedal Show. Super interesting video, gives a general insight into some of this stuff and the gear he uses and how he gets around certain situations (such as synth/keyboard sounds, he sometimes uses a Moog Lil Phatty but often pedals)

  14. Order some custom made ones. Much better than all those "factory made" ones. I noticed that companies never complete their heads with appropriate wattage cabs. It's almost always that small cabs ex. 2x10 or 2x12 are 300-400w but heads are 500 and more. You must buy 4x10 or bigger to have headroom for amp wattage. It's strange. Thats why I order Handbox gear. https://www.facebook.com/HandBoxAudio/videos/1288382281171974/
  15. What do you think guys? Does bass cab with 2x12 without tweeter will be a good solution? 2 12'' can do the job without a tweeter ? (Eminence Beta 12A) Could you advice me some "boutique" high end stuff? I don't wanna another "factory" speaker. Thanks. 


    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. Beer of the Bass

      Beer of the Bass

      I'm happy using my homebuilt cabs with Beta 12As and no tweeter.  They have quite a bright sounding upper mid response even if they don't go very high. 

    3. mcnach


      I have no tweeters anymore. I used to think that having extended frequency response was desirable because... you can always remove it if you don't want it, right? But I found that quite often the tweeter just added harshness too easily. The best one I had personal experience of was the Barefaced BigBaby 2 (single 12", but they make a 2x12 version too). The attenuation control worked very well and even full on was not harsh. So there are some cabs out there that work well. But in the end I found I just don't need to go that high. My main cabs roll off at 7 KHz and they have plenty top end that still doesn't get fizzy if I add overdrive.

      So, no, I don't think you need tweeters. Of course, some people love them so it depends on what you're after, but for what it's worth I am not into dark 'old school' sounds. I like versatility, mix fingerstyle/pick/slap and can go quite bright at times, and I can get all that without tweeters. 


    4. jb90


      Thanks for reply guys. I order with tweeter. I think that 2x12 have not so wide freq response to give good full of charmonics sound. 5khz+ is probably ok but 3.8khz might be not enough. 

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