MartinB

If you'd seen my efforts at soldering, you wouldn't be asking me for advice 😉 Removing the wires should be a case of pulling gently on them while applying the iron to the solder pad - as soon as the solder melts, they should come free. If they're not loose after a couple of seconds, remove the iron to avoid overheating, and re-think. You may need more power or a larger tip. Remove one wire at a time if possible - you'll want to cut the cable tie bundling the P wires to the MM wires, and it may be easier if you can separate the black and white wires a few inches along their length. https://mightyohm.com/blog/2011/04/soldering-is-easy-comic-book/ https://www.premierguitar.com/diy/guitar-bass-mods/guitar-soldering?page=1 Personally I'd go for the terminal block, as it's hard to get wrong - but best of luck either way!

First thing you could try is to flip both of these connectors upside down: If that doesn't do it, flip them back to where they were when you started. It looks like you really need to swap the black and white wires that go from the P pickup to the blend pot, but from your question I'm guessing that soldering is not an option? One possible solution would be to cut those two wires and use a small terminal block to reconnect them the other way round - white to black, and black to white:

What I sent to Brian was the original plate with a piece of cardboard attached: So if he kept a copy of the final template he used, then you might be in luck. I'll PM you some details and you can ask him.

You want the centre line of the MM pickup to be in the region of 30 1/2" to 30 5/8" from the nut

☝️ Press each string down on either side of the nut as well, so that it doesn't curve like a banana over the top. Reduces your chance of weird chorus-y noises. Same thing at the saddles too.

If he knew how to play, he wouldn't need to go to the school

300 Hz here - there's a wide range around there that all sounds good, so I just went for the round number

https://reverb.com/news/the-golden-age-of-the-ampeg-b-15-1960-1980

You were only a couple of weeks out 😄

Is it wide from edge to edge, or thick from front to back - or both 😬? I've been keeping an eye out for one of these basses, as it's of the few headless designs that doesn't look completely weird to me, but if it's anything like a full Precision-width nut then I will think again.

Is that 48cm at the longest point, i.e. down the middle of the surfboard? A 43 x 29 blank like this would give you 51cm corner-to-corner.

You just mean moving the loudest (serial) position to one end of the switch, right? So that when flicking between settings, you don't have to go "across" the loudest one.

The price of those adapters was already something of a joke. I use strips of veneer to reduce the hole size, same as @neepheid and Gerry Hayes. These are worth considering as a Hipshot alternative:

How about some radioactive side dots? https://www.reidtimber.co.uk/edc/luminous-tritium-side-dot-markers