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SamPlaysBass

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Everything posted by SamPlaysBass

  1. SamPlaysBass
    Cheers for all the replies - I knew this was going to be a can of worms subject but it’s great to see everyone’s own opinions. After reading through, I’d love to try something Japanese, just to say I’ve owned and enjoyed one. Failing that, a roadworn Mexican such as the one suggested (which looks perfect, just waiting for funds) would be the way to go. I love how there’s so much personal preference about what is essentially the same design. Definitely siding towards a more vintage voicing, so I think I’m going to try a few out when I can find them. I’ll keep you updated 👌
  2. SamPlaysBass
    I’ve made a note, FinnDave 😉 I’ve got a MiM Jazz and a newer MiA Professional V, and I can see and feel the quality gap - the more substantial bridge being the most prominent. £ for £, would you say that the MiA is worth seeking out over a MiM with upgraded hardware?
  3. SamPlaysBass
    I've got a few bits of gear up for sale (will soon be on Basschat, when I return from my holidays on Saturday) and I'm already gassing for a Precision. There's a new project that will be gaining more momentum over the next few months that will really dig the chunky, flatwound P-bass sound - Motown, Staple Singers, D'Angelo Pino etc. My question is: does it really matter which P bass you buy? Is a Vintage V4 any worse sounding than a MiM P? Is a MiM P any worse than an American P? What is so mystical about the JV Squiers and 80s Tokai Hard Punchers and Limelight wonders that are creeping around the for sale sections? Will a Yamaha BB satisfy all these urges? I want a P bass, and may not keep it forever. My budget can adjust accordingly, but realistically, no more than £750 and for that it must be wonderful. What do you guys reckon: Is a higher priced P bass any better than a lower priced offering?
  4. SamPlaysBass
    Are they serious that good then? I’ve got a G&L L2000 I’m looking to release a bit of money from and gaining something with a P pickup. Might fit the bill.
  5. SamPlaysBass
    There's a theme here... The result of years of shifting big heavy boxes around?
  6. SamPlaysBass
    I love hearing tales of people going back to the big heavy stuff from small, light amps and cabs. I too moved on the Barefaced in pursuit of bigger (and cheaper, and less easy to steal - it's a rough area where I usually gig!) rigs. What are you blasting through now?
  7. SamPlaysBass
    I've put off a few purchases in the past thinking that there are cheaper alternatives, or that the cost doesn't match how much I need them (a rare moment of clarity). I've used cheap crappy tuners, bought crappy gig bags etc. and I've now made a small list of things that I wish I had bought sooner. Here's my list of 'Just Buy Them...' items: 1. Boss TU-3 - I put up with crappy tuners for ages and then bit the bullet. Suddenly realised why there is one on most boards, regardless of genre, instrument, region etc. 10/10 2. Markbass LM3 - Bought mine off the 'bay for a very good price. It's been incredibly useful being so lightweight (I throw mine in a backpack) and with a lovely DI to keep the sound lords happy. Has powered countless cabinets and puts out a wonderful amount of volume, really pushing the notes through the mix in a pleasing way. Standard LM3 has more than enough power as it is. Built like a brick sh'house. Not the finest in aural pleasure, but on a cost / sound / reliability index, it hits a solid 8.5/10 3. TC Electronic Spectracomp - Was shown one of these a few years back, liked it and forgot about it. Found one for a very good price a couple of weeks back and it has changed my view on compression. It supports my playing, not hindering it by choking notes too quickly or sustaining notes when they need to fade out. It's like going from standard def TV to 4K HD. Absolutely love it, a great addition to any board. 9/10 4. Hiscox Bass Cases - STD. - Outperforms every other hard case I've come across so far. Not light, but you trust it. I've had mine over 10 years and I think it'll last another 20 years hard labour. A genuine 10/10 investment. What items do you wish you had bought sooner?
  8. SamPlaysBass
    I borrowed an RB9 head back in the days before I had any gear of my own. I couldn't fault it; sounded good, had plenty of power on tap and that head is still used heavily in a rehearsal room to this day. A tad heavy maybe, but we're spoiled in this day an age with amp heads we could throw like a frisbee. I had a 1x15 Richter series cab given to me as an extension to a combo I was buying and it was perfectly adequate. Sold it due to lack of use rather than anything else. I don't think Laney as a company, or the people that use them, shout loudly enough about how good they are. Undeservedly overlooked.
  9. SamPlaysBass
    Just been picked up I’m afraid! Now sold
  10. SamPlaysBass
    Completely agree. There are many players on Basschat that swap and change to the latest technology when they can afford it and the stuff they sell on has been well cared for. I’d start in the for sale section here. Head and cab are easier to upgrade than a combo, so I’d vouch for that as a start. I recently bought a Markbass LM3 for £300. I’d really recommend it; reliable, loud enough for nearly any scenario and just going out of fashion (the key ingredient!). There’s plenty about for the same money, which leaves you with £300 for a cab. Again, based on your needs (will it fit in my car? Will I need to cart it up three flights of stairs after every gig? Will I be worried about leaving it for hours unattended etc.), there’s plenty of choice on Basschat. I’d say a 4x10 is capable of nearly any scenario. There are plenty around for £300, and most will serve you well. Again, it’s based on your needs. I’ve played through a Hartke HyDrive 4x10 and was asked to turn down in a loud rock band scenario. Wheels are always handy on a 4x10! The Fender Rumble stuff seems to be well liked in most instances, if you are happy or don’t fancy a change, look up the range for more power and speakers. If you aren’t getting the results you want, sell up and move on. I’d wholeheartedly recommend buying from this site if you can.
  11. SamPlaysBass
    Barefaced Super Compact Gen 3 from August 2017, with Roqsolid cover. Efficient, small in stature and with massive balls, this is the Angela Merkel of bass cabinets. I bought this cab from a fellow basschatter who owned it from new. The previous owner barely used it, and I'm disappointed to say I did the same. It's taken on three gigs and around 10 rehearsals with myself, and all scenarios required me to turn down. The Super Compact comprises of 1x12 inch speaker that was manufactured using witchcraft and doesn't have (read 'need') a tweeter. Despite having all the top end you'll ever need (unless you are trying to be Mark King), it lends itself more gracefully to mellower or bass/mid focused tones, as per the Barefaced site. It weighs 12kg, and has nearly broken the noses of two people who tried to lift it not realising how light it is. I've used two different heads, a GK 700rb ii and an LM3, and it flatters them both. I'm selling with it the Roqsolid cover that I ordered with blue piping. In the interests of full disclosure, when I ordered the cabinet from the previous owner, it was shipped a very considerable distance and across two countries. The cab wasn't fastidiously packaged and the courier had tried their damnedest to give it a hard time, but the little black box laughed it all off, save for the scars you see in the pictures. As a consequence, one of the input jacks didn't work, so I emailed Alex at Barefaced and he pointed me in the direction of their suppliers and and the new input was fitted by an electrical engineer (i.e. my Dad). All works brilliantly. I have advertised this elsewhere and it has lots of admirers, but no-one serious yet. From my experience with couriers (as above), I'm not very willing to ship. I'd much prefer collection from South Wales or thereabouts, unless you organise collection/man with a van/courier etc. I'm based in Merthyr Tydfil, and will travel around 40 miles to meet or deliver if need be. Cash or PayPal, with the fees accounted for on your end, would be great. In terms of trade, I am overflowing with gear, but that's not to say I won't say yes to something else, even another cabinet. I'm selling this wonderful little box as even though I've read all the bumph that says tweeters and horns are the work of the Devil, there's something that I really like about them and miss on this cab. And yes, I do spend most Saturday afternoons and evenings to be Mark King, albeit very terribly. Cheers, Sam
  12. SamPlaysBass
    P bass nuts tend to have more variety than jazz necks. You can feel the difference, but it’s not negative, just different. It’s like putting a different pair of shoes on; you stop noticing the difference pretty quickly when you do some walkin’.
  13. SamPlaysBass
    Definitely. I had an Ibanez SR600 with this in mind a few years back. The neck was well made and fretwork good, but I didn’t feel any benefit. I now play a MM StingRay and alternate a MiM Jazz as a backup. I don’t feel the extra 3-4mm on the nut. I appreciate the satin finish on the MM and the profile on the jazz, but not the nut width!
  14. SamPlaysBass
    Generally speaking, it is believed that a skinnier neck is faster (or at least, it sounds like a reasonable answer). However, I’ve found that there are so many different variables in necks that rarely is this true. Going back to to the point, I played a Cort Jeff Berlin signature and found the neck too slim. Felt like a matchstick and I had trouble finding the strings! I played a jazz bass for years but still found the JB neck too slim. Conversely, I’ve just ‘acquired’ a G&L L2000 tribute which has a FAT neck, but it’s not a hindrance. I think technique comes in as well. If you play with your thumb over the fretboard (g**tarist style) where the neck fills your palm, then you may find fatter necks a problem. If you play with your thumb behind the fretboard, I don’t think there’s a great difference in neck widths. I’ve found string spacing up the neck to be more of an issue than nut width.
  15. SamPlaysBass
    I like keeping gear safe, but I'm really not into paying £50-100 for a BAG. Has anyone found any cheaper alternatives to official gig bags? I've found: A TC Electronic BH250 fits wonderfully into one of these Eden WTX bags. £20 for a really well made bag with enough room for a kettle lead and a speakon cable (or 2 short ones at a push). There's about an 1.5cm of space between the 'lid' and the front dials, but the amp is so light and so nicely fitting that it never moved. 9/10 - Highly recommended. https://www.pmtonline.co.uk/eden-covr-70003-padded-shoulder-bag-for-wtx-heads I'm also using a Gator Multi FX bag for my GK 700rb ii - This one is more well documented and I've found the bag to be useful and well padded - 7.5/10. Fits with a little room to spare, and the front pocket swallows a kettle lead, 2 speakon cables and still has room to spare. £27 delivered is much better than the nearly £80 GK want for their version. https://www.andertons.co.uk/gator-guitar-multi-fx-unit-bag-gk2110?LGWCODE=GK2110;56375;6335&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI86v-oeO12QIV4bDtCh0reA3zEAQYASABEgIWzfD_BwE Any other cheapskate alternatives for other amps/gear etc.? I've just taken delivery of a Markbass LM3, and don't fancy shelling out £50 on the official bag. Any unofficial bags that fit the bill? I've heard laptop or mixer cases to be useful for all sorts of class D heads.
  16. SamPlaysBass
    Are you interested in trades at all? PM incoming!
  17. SamPlaysBass
    Cheers guys. I’m convinced the neck is genuine USA. The tuners, fretwork and serial number all check out. I did think about the Squier VM body, but I would assume that they would keep the Duncan Designed pickups rather than go to the effort of replacing them (although if the body didn’t have them to start, you’d have to chuck something in for the pickups!). Contacted a local luthier who has an encyclopaedic knowledge of unusual guitars, and he seems quite positive that it’s all genuine. He mentioned that the string through body was new in the 90’s, so teething problems may have been evident. He also believes the scratch plate may have been changed from a white one to the black we see here. I’ll pop back soon and ask to do some digging under the scratch plate and neck. The guy selling it has very little to hide, he’s very open and honest. I was thinking that maybe he bought a USA Jazz neck that someone had stuck on an SX Jazz Bass body. The mystery continues!
  18. SamPlaysBass
    Hey T-Bay, cheers for the advice. Googled the serial number on the headstock, and it shows it as a 1998/9. I can't really take the neck off the body to check the serial number under there, just hope that these features are either inline with other basses of this era or if they are warning signs!
  19. SamPlaysBass
    I've heard rumours that the music shop he bought it from may have slipped the odd fake in the rosters, hence the caution. Also, anyone know what model this is?
  20. SamPlaysBass
    I've been offered a USA Jazz for a steal, so I went to look at it tonight. First impressions are positive - lovely Ash body on a maple neck and only a few cosmetic marks. Definitely hasn't seen much action, just the odd dent here and there. Guy who is selling it is nearly 70, bought it when he retired with the intention of learning but never got around to it. The neck feels chunkier than my MIM Jazz from 2007, a little bit nicer in fact. However I've noticed a few things that could be suspicious. First is the string-through body holes on the back - they don't seem to have been drilled in equal intervals. Next, there is a little gap between the pick guard and control plate, with some black adhesive underneath to fill in the gap. Anything fishy here? Bass itself sounds good. Can anyone verify if this all checks out with other Fender Jazz basses from the late 90s? Serial number begins with N8, making it a 98/99 model - guy selling it thought it was a year or two old when he bought it from a local shop 10 years ago. It was closer to 10 at the time, but in very good condition.
  21. SamPlaysBass
    Also, PM sent
  22. SamPlaysBass
    Metal or cloth grill? Also, any cover with it?
  23. SamPlaysBass
    I AB'd both the Retroglide 800 and the RM500 the other day through the same ABM 4x10 in PMT in Cardiff. The volume and input Knobs on the Retroglide were both at 12 o'clock and I got some nice sounds out of it. By contrast, I plugged into the RM and had to secure the knobs at 9 o'clock for everyone's safety! The RM is massively louder, but as Merton suggested, it may be because it's been 'voiced', whereas the Retroglide is extremely clean. I'd even go as far as to say that the Retroglide would be a good option for those running other instruments (keyboard, guitar etc.) as its crystal clear. The RM, despite being 300 watts down, blew it out of the park for volume, but was very heavily voiced towards the 'punch you in the face and rob your wallet' end of the spectrum. A Retroglide could probably do the same, but would need some time spending with that lovely EQ to do the same.
  24. SamPlaysBass
    Curious to see what those who've played one these have got to say. Laney don't get much love, but the Laney RB bass head I borrowed from a friend for a gig a while back was punchy, big-sounding and had a lot of balls. Built like a safe as well. Would be nice to hear some positive Laney vibes!
  25. SamPlaysBass
    I've tried the bass with fresh battery and with a GK RB700 A/Bing with the same cables, cabs etc. Worth checking though, cheers Wal! The fuzz only happens after you give it some beans - it's like it hits the limiter but doesn't return to normal properly, if that makes sense? And that's not stupid clipping (i.e. full gain and whacking it), that's using the blue LED to show you where it's clipping and turning down. It's also audible though the headphone socket leading me to think it's the input stage, but I'll try putting it through the FX return to see what that does. Thank you for that! The misleading thing is that when you fire the amp up, it plays beautifully. It's only when you increase the input gain and play with some force that the distortion happens - but it's as instant as stepping on a pedal. Beautiful, clean tone and then.... METAL CLIFF BURTON NOISE EVERYWHERE haha. I'm impressed at the reply time, how much have people been charged? I know it could differ, but just to give me an idea. Eich seem like a good company to deal with. Or could a tech have a go?
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