Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

SamPlaysBass

⭐Supporting Member⭐
  • Posts

    190
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by SamPlaysBass

  1. Regrettably, I'm selling my Ashdown CTM 100 and Ampeg 410 HE SVT Classic. (CAB NOW SOLD) Ashdown CTM 100 with Roqsolid cover - was £750, was £675, NOW £600. I bought the Ashdown CTM from PMT in October and it still has 4 years and a half years of the 5 year warranty on it. It's an incredible amp and one I've been very glad to own - a tick on the old bucket list. I've used it a handful of times, probably 5 times maximum and I haven't reached the outer limits yet. It's in 100% condition, dry stored in the house and always in a Roqsolid cover. It can do the fat, valve warmth or the full Live at Leeds screaming. An astonishing head in A1 condition with plenty of the factory warranty left and bought from a high street retailer online. I've taken the hit on the depreciation so you don't have to! (Neon tape easily be taken off with no marks left behind. Although the controls took me a while to figure out so they may be useful starting out! Based in Quakers Yard, South Wales. Any questions, fire away! Sam
  2. Hi guys, In the next few months, I’m looking to upgrade my TC RH 450 and two RS112s to something a bit more Aguilar shaped. Ideally, an AG700 or TH500 head on top of two 1x12 cabs. Sonically, what are the qualities (or differences) between the lightweight SL series and the DB series? I see GS cabs floating about the classifieds as well, how do they stack up? My priorities lay with size as I have limited storage and transport space. Weight is less of an issue - modern 1x12 cabs don’t weigh tonnes and I won’t be moaning about a few kilograms. Or any other cab suggestions entirely? I can hear the ‘just be done with it and buy Barefaced’ but I’ve been down that route and it’s not for me. I’m pretty set on Aggie but unless someone can suggest otherwise. I play an American 5 string Professional Jazz trying to sound like Paul Turner (with 1% of the talent), with lashings of MM StingRay and a P bass with flats. I play an even split of DI to FOH with cabs for monitoring vs playing old social clubs and bars without any PA support.
  3. Markbass Nano is, in my experience, louder than the TC BH250 and just as dainty. Every time I’ve used a Nano, I’ve been very impressed. However, TC has the toneprint features which are half decent and good fun. Trace Elliot Elf isn’t too shabby either, and laughably small. I know none of these are valve-y, but small things don’t tend to be. Wildcard offering could be the Bugera BV1001T - a small-ish valve pre-amp class D? In terms of driving the speaker in the combo, you can unplug the speaker cable and power from the combo head and just plug them into the back of your spare head. The speaker cables on combos generally aren’t massive, so you may have to ‘perch’ the spare head precariously on the back of the combo. You could always unscrew the combo head if you’ve got time and slot in the spare one!
  4. Regarding if TC are replacing the RS line - I’ve been emailing TC support looking for some spares for my RH450 and enquired about any new series or updates to the RS series. As far as the person I emailed was aware, they are not looking to update the series, and they don’t seem to be giving any clues away if they’re going to be replacing it either. Shame, as they are great amps and cabs. The design is over 10 years old now, but still some of the best I’ve ever used. On a side note, did anyone else notice that all the TC pedals dropped quite suddenly in price on Thomann in January? They seem to have gone back up now, but TC must’ve been having a big clear out.
  5. +1 for EMG Geezer Butlers. I had a Squire Chris Aiken P bass which I bought as a project off Facebook. The previous owner had made his own loom and wasn’t the best with a soldering iron, so the tone pot didn’t work and it wasn’t great. Whacked in the GZR set as it came with a new solderless loom. Installation was easy, pots feel good and the sound... a fantastic, rich and slightly dark sounding with a big vintage nod. A fantastic upgrade with a very noticeable improvement in sound. Very pleased.
  6. Sire V7 Marcus Miller 5 string. Again, it’s not hate, but disappointment. I’d read all the rave reviews on forums and waited patiently as the back order was filled and eventually it arrived. I told myself it was as great as the reviews made it out to be, but I genuinely expected a £1000+ instrument for £300. What I had was a £300 instrument for £300. The neck finish was sticky, it had paint defects that had been touched up badly and the chunkiest neck I’d ever played. Sounded great and the EQ section was clever, but really it was very average. Maybe a tad below average, but the pickups and EQ helped it out a lot. Sold it after a year and after buying a Fender Jazz Professional 5, which is my favourite bass of all time. Also, Ibanez SR500. It was devoid of any personality. Despite its Bartolini pickups and beautiful finish, it was just a few pieces of wood with some wires attached. My Mexican Jazz on the other hand was pure magic by comparison even with a crappy bridge and pickups. You can change those but you can’t give a personality transplant. Lastly, G&L L2000. Technically brilliant, but hard work to play (awkward nut, chunky neck) and pickups that could set fire to preamps. Not hate, I just don’t think I was the right player for that bass.
  7. Very curious about these amps at this price. From your description, I’m gathering it be driven just a lil’ bit without having a pedal in front? And Is the compressor usable? And whilst I’m at it, what is the DI like? I remember the old Terror Bass having a DI that could set fire to desks made of brimstone!
  8. I started with an Ashdown Mag 300, which was just about portable but not loud enough. Bought a Trace 4x10 combo which although weighing 4 metric tonnes, was louder and actually much more practical - wheels on the bottom turned it into a trolley for everyone else’s crap to be loaded in on. Bought a Barefaced Compact and a TecAmp Puma so I could be portable, but the TecAmp wasn’t longed for this workd and developed a fault. Replaced it with an LM3. Barefaced didn’t do it for me, so I sold it and bought a 4x10 SVT HE. Now I’m looking to go full valve... In between, I’ve kept a couple of TC RS112s to run the LM3, but I much prefer heavy stuff. Perhaps I’m into pain? Also, big heavy stuff is pleasingly cheap at the minute!
  9. Can you run the BTA through an 8 ohm cab or is the minimum load 4 ohms?
  10. Again, one of the considerations. I’ve had amps in the past (albeit Class D) that have needed some TLC and the technician has been stumped when trying to find parts. It would be great to have peace of mind knowing someone could fix it if it needed it. Speaking of which, I’m sure there’s an Ashdown BTA 200 on here somewhere...
  11. I understand where you’re coming from, but perhaps I was a bit over zealous saying clean... Maybe I mean just not completely filthy? I love the break up sound!
  12. I’ve recently bought a nicely run-in Ampeg SVT 410 HE (8ohm) for peanuts after selling my most of lightweight gear, and it sounds glorious. I’m looking at going the full hog and putting something valve-y on top of it. I’ve used SVT CLs and 8x10s when festivals have been kind to us, and I love that tone. My Fender Professional Jazz V loves to sing through big, heavy valves. I’m currently using an LM3 to power the 410HE, which sounds good but a bit.. dry? The truth is I’ve got GAS for a valve amp to complete the rig. My question is do I go for something like an Ampeg VB4 or stay British and get an Orange or Ashdown? I’m looking for meaty, mostly clean tones for finger style funk and soul. I like to slap, but I seriously dislike the sterile, active clack. I prefer passive thump to hifi clarity. I’ll keep the LM3 for pure ease of use, but for those awesome gigs where we’ve got a bit more time to set up and tinker, what would you suggest?
  13. Very true, the old advert with the great man himself! It's a fantastic piece of wood. I've compared it with the grain on my Squier Fretless Jazz and the difference is amazing; it's like a well tailored tux next to a Kappa track suit! G&L smashes anything out of the park, but the ol' GAS is heading for a P bass.
  14. Chances are you've read the reviews, seen the videos and read the endorsement from Jesus Christ himself. Here is my G&L L2000 Tribute. It's an amazing instrument, built in 2011 and had its final QC inspection on the 19th of January 2012 - the sticker is still on the back. Indonesian made but with American built pickups and hardware, with build quality comparable to its American made brethren. Beautiful finish - 3-tone sunburst over a Swamp Ash body with a clear satin neck finish very similar to my MusicMan StingRay. Pickups sound incredible, with the most articulate and beefy circuitry I've ever come across at any price point. EQ is very easy to use - I'm not sure why manufacturers don't use similar setups. It's also much lighter than my StingRay, and kicks a little bit harder. It was set up a earlier this year with 45-105 D'Addarios which are mellowing nicely (the bright switch is there if you want to slice eyebrows off) and plays with a low, but not crazy low, action. I'd say it's in 8.5-9/10 condition with a few surface scratches on the back and absolutely nothing else. Collection or trial welcome from Quakers Yard, Merthyr Tydfil in South Wales. Not keen on shipping, but if you are very interested I can meet within an hour or so of CF46. Try me, what's the worst that can happen! I would trade for a nice P bass, with cash either way for the right one (preferably anything other than a MiM Standard Precision. All makes considered though!). Cheers, Sam
  15. Cheers for all the replies - I knew this was going to be a can of worms subject but it’s great to see everyone’s own opinions. After reading through, I’d love to try something Japanese, just to say I’ve owned and enjoyed one. Failing that, a roadworn Mexican such as the one suggested (which looks perfect, just waiting for funds) would be the way to go. I love how there’s so much personal preference about what is essentially the same design. Definitely siding towards a more vintage voicing, so I think I’m going to try a few out when I can find them. I’ll keep you updated 👌
  16. I’ve made a note, FinnDave 😉 I’ve got a MiM Jazz and a newer MiA Professional V, and I can see and feel the quality gap - the more substantial bridge being the most prominent. £ for £, would you say that the MiA is worth seeking out over a MiM with upgraded hardware?
  17. I've got a few bits of gear up for sale (will soon be on Basschat, when I return from my holidays on Saturday) and I'm already gassing for a Precision. There's a new project that will be gaining more momentum over the next few months that will really dig the chunky, flatwound P-bass sound - Motown, Staple Singers, D'Angelo Pino etc. My question is: does it really matter which P bass you buy? Is a Vintage V4 any worse sounding than a MiM P? Is a MiM P any worse than an American P? What is so mystical about the JV Squiers and 80s Tokai Hard Punchers and Limelight wonders that are creeping around the for sale sections? Will a Yamaha BB satisfy all these urges? I want a P bass, and may not keep it forever. My budget can adjust accordingly, but realistically, no more than £750 and for that it must be wonderful. What do you guys reckon: Is a higher priced P bass any better than a lower priced offering?
  18. Are they serious that good then? I’ve got a G&L L2000 I’m looking to release a bit of money from and gaining something with a P pickup. Might fit the bill.
  19. There's a theme here... The result of years of shifting big heavy boxes around?
  20. I love hearing tales of people going back to the big heavy stuff from small, light amps and cabs. I too moved on the Barefaced in pursuit of bigger (and cheaper, and less easy to steal - it's a rough area where I usually gig!) rigs. What are you blasting through now?
×
×
  • Create New...