LowMoFo

Hi all, A quick & probably naive question please: I’m experimenting with a (dead) neck, and am wondering how flexible epoxy resin is. Obviously, strings would be off for coating, but when the neck is strung & tuned, the neck will move. Will the resin move with it, or is there a risk of separation? This query also applies to truss-rod adjustment. Or would super glue be better…? Over to you legends please, I thank you! 🤘

Hi Nick, Never been a fan of the Fender shape, but the Mustang is kinda cute, gotta say. 👍 I see you’re (at times) using Chromes, just wondering about your thoughts on them. I have a set on a fretless build, and I’m not really sure about them. How do they compare with the Labellas, good sir? 🤘🤘

Recently bought a Taurus Amplification 1x15” bass cab from Nick. Incidentally, my first purchase through BC. My thoughts: First off, the cab is in great condition, having clearly been well looked after. When it arrived, what I received was a masterclass of packaging, slightly unorthodox, but very effective. Nice! Enough, for now, about my new toy, let’s get to the bit you seek: Nick, it has to be said, is a bit of a legend. It’s really refreshing, esp when buying, to interact with someone so helpful, informative, and proactive. Not only was the interaction (purchase) made easy, it was a pleasure. This dude is as helpful as any BC member I’ve encountered. What a cool attitude. Cheers, Nick! 🤘🤘

Hi all, The button said 'Start New Topic'. I doubt that this is 'new' by a long way, so with apologies in advance... Can anyone recommend a good book, or a comprehensive (and I mean it) website to educate me on music-based electrickery? I ask this because I have a TC 500w head, and I want to get some cabs without blowing anything up. I'm struggling with my lack of electrickery knowledge (I can't see it, therefore I don't get it), and it's really starting to get on my tits. My amp: 500w @ 4ohms, 250w (or 300w) @ 8ohms. Cab option A: 10s + a 15 (wider freq range) Cab option B: Just 12s (Because I'm lazy & this is allegedly a compromise twixt 10s & 15s) I understand that 2x8ohm cabs will result in a 4ohm load. That much I get. This will draw an output of 500w from the amp. The amp is only ever gonna chuck out 500w max, split between whatever cabs I put them through. Right? Given (of course) that I'm not pissing about with 2.6ohms etc. So. I hunt down cabs which are ultimately rated at 500w each. Right? Or combined? Or what? By now, if you've got this far, you're no doubt very aware that I overthink pretty much everything. But it's only because I don't want to kill myself this way. You know, without warning. Go on, go to the drinks cupboard, I'll be here. Same with the 12" option. 500w 4ohm cab? And then we come to headroom. For the amp? Cab(s)? is both possible? I hate my brain. It hates me back. Any advice/suggestions/firearms desperately needed & greatly appreciated, as always. I'll see my self out...

Gaaghhh!! Busted already! I have two other projects right now. One is underway, t’other is still in the ‘thinking’ stage. As an aside, I bought some strips of wood which will magically turn into a neck. None of those strips are tonewoods, purely for education & experience. For now… There will definitely be more.

Back after a lengthy hiatus, finally got around to posting a few pics of the finished item, which I finished almost a year ago.

Thanks for getting back to me, it is their SBK-2 model. Volume, blend, treble & bass.

Hi all, I’ve recently installed a Tone Monster pre-amp loom into a project, and have a couple of queries: Firstly, it’s VERY quiet. Is there a common reason why? Secondly, the treble boost/cut has no effect. Everything else works. I’ve seen capacitors on tone pots in the past, but can’t find one on the board, or anywhere in this pre-wired loom. The bass pot works well though. As you can no-doubt tell by now, I’m an absolute ignoramus when it comes to electronics, I’ve scoured YouTube for help, without success, does anyone have any guides to troubleshooting such issues please?

Almost there… Currently waiting for a decent humidity window to clear-coat the neck. Pretty much everything else is done. This has been quite an adventure, I must say. Plenty of ‘two steps forward, one step back’ which has been both painful and educational… I’ll post pics of the beast when it’s finished.

I'm definitely getting the idea that he's a repeat offender, ongoing cases etc, so whilst I understand that legal action is a real grind, it could potentially help others to steer very clear of this idiot. Once again, fingers tightly crossed for you.

Hi Adam, just throwing my 2p worth in here: Like many, many others on BC, I can happily tell you that Andy is an awesome guy. He is super helpful, and (subject to his schedule etc) makes the time for people - I speak as a true ignoramus who has picked his brains on many occasions. Seriously though, contact him directly on here. He's like the Yoda of luthiery. Trust me, if he can help, he will. Best of luck with this, fella.

Hi all, I need to get hold of some router templates, preferably acrylic, and am wondering who you guys use/could recommend, please. I'm looking for a 4 & 5-string soapbar template, and a 9v battery box template over both orientations. As always, many thanks in advance.

It may well be. I guess it comes down to personal preference. I’ve not seen a single negative review of tusq nuts. That said, I have an 80s Westone bass with a brass nut, and I love the nut/strings/pup combination. On the flip side of that, I once read: “If brass was any good for nuts, it would be used on violins.” I guess maybe try one of each, idk. Hope you find what you’re looking for.

Have you considered a tusq nut Barry? I ask only because bone, being organic, has variable density throughout, meaning the response can vary across the nut. Ibanez use tusq for their higher-end models. It’s a bit like carbon fibre, but uniformly denser, and is pre-impregnated with graphite so it’s permanently lubricated. Graph-Tech make & supply them to different sizes & configurations for most neck widths. Just a thought...

Nice! I'll look up how to get there as I no longer drive, and then maybe we can arrange a date that's convenient to you. Sir, you are a star!!

I automatically change strings on any used bass I've bought, definitely, but in this case it's a brand new bass.

Hi Hiram, That's very kind of you! I'm in Basildon, you?

Essex. Centre of the Universe...

The neck is def straight when tuned, I’ve checked it several times. I don’t know about the string tension as these are a set of D’Addarios that were factory fitted. A very good point re oscillation, yes I do like to pluck quite hard (rock & metal head). Thanks Hooky!

I didn’t know Ibanez used shims, but I’ll take a look. Thanks again Ped.

From the 3rd fret it becomes noticeable, and increases as I move up to 24, across all strings.

There is slight buzzing from both sides of my fretting hand. Raising the saddles slightly cured the buzz between hand and bridge, but between the nut and hand its still there. It makes that end of the string vibrate audibly too. TBH, its also bugging me that I've bought an imperfect 'malfunctioning' bass, I just want to put it right, I guess...

Hi Ped, I did initially try adjusting with the strings tuned, but being a 5-string, the A string was perfectly in the way. I took that string off, but access is still very limited by the D & E strings. Not a fan of heavier gauge strings unless I’m drop-tuning one of my 4-string basses, so I’m guessing I’ll have to raise the saddles (grrr!) a little in the short term. Thanks dude.

It was from a UK (allegedly) guitar shop, via Ebay. Ok thanks for the suggestion Paul, I'll get in touch with them.