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Everything posted by LowMoFo

  1. Almost there… Currently waiting for a decent humidity window to clear-coat the neck. Pretty much everything else is done. This has been quite an adventure, I must say. Plenty of ‘two steps forward, one step back’ which has been both painful and educational… I’ll post pics of the beast when it’s finished.
  2. I'm definitely getting the idea that he's a repeat offender, ongoing cases etc, so whilst I understand that legal action is a real grind, it could potentially help others to steer very clear of this idiot. Once again, fingers tightly crossed for you.
  3. Hi Adam, just throwing my 2p worth in here: Like many, many others on BC, I can happily tell you that Andy is an awesome guy. He is super helpful, and (subject to his schedule etc) makes the time for people - I speak as a true ignoramus who has picked his brains on many occasions. Seriously though, contact him directly on here. He's like the Yoda of luthiery. Trust me, if he can help, he will. Best of luck with this, fella.
  4. Hi all, I need to get hold of some router templates, preferably acrylic, and am wondering who you guys use/could recommend, please. I'm looking for a 4 & 5-string soapbar template, and a 9v battery box template over both orientations. As always, many thanks in advance.
  5. It may well be. I guess it comes down to personal preference. I’ve not seen a single negative review of tusq nuts. That said, I have an 80s Westone bass with a brass nut, and I love the nut/strings/pup combination. On the flip side of that, I once read: “If brass was any good for nuts, it would be used on violins.” I guess maybe try one of each, idk. Hope you find what you’re looking for.
  6. Have you considered a tusq nut Barry? I ask only because bone, being organic, has variable density throughout, meaning the response can vary across the nut. Ibanez use tusq for their higher-end models. It’s a bit like carbon fibre, but uniformly denser, and is pre-impregnated with graphite so it’s permanently lubricated. Graph-Tech make & supply them to different sizes & configurations for most neck widths. Just a thought...
  7. Nice! I'll look up how to get there as I no longer drive, and then maybe we can arrange a date that's convenient to you. Sir, you are a star!!
  8. I automatically change strings on any used bass I've bought, definitely, but in this case it's a brand new bass.
  9. Hi Hiram, That's very kind of you! I'm in Basildon, you?
  10. Essex. Centre of the Universe...
  11. The neck is def straight when tuned, I’ve checked it several times. I don’t know about the string tension as these are a set of D’Addarios that were factory fitted. A very good point re oscillation, yes I do like to pluck quite hard (rock & metal head). Thanks Hooky!
  12. I didn’t know Ibanez used shims, but I’ll take a look. Thanks again Ped.
  13. From the 3rd fret it becomes noticeable, and increases as I move up to 24, across all strings.
  14. There is slight buzzing from both sides of my fretting hand. Raising the saddles slightly cured the buzz between hand and bridge, but between the nut and hand its still there. It makes that end of the string vibrate audibly too. TBH, its also bugging me that I've bought an imperfect 'malfunctioning' bass, I just want to put it right, I guess...
  15. Hi Ped, I did initially try adjusting with the strings tuned, but being a 5-string, the A string was perfectly in the way. I took that string off, but access is still very limited by the D & E strings. Not a fan of heavier gauge strings unless I’m drop-tuning one of my 4-string basses, so I’m guessing I’ll have to raise the saddles (grrr!) a little in the short term. Thanks dude.
  16. It was from a UK (allegedly) guitar shop, via Ebay. Ok thanks for the suggestion Paul, I'll get in touch with them.
  17. Hi all, A couple of months ago I bought a new Ibanez bass, and have only recently (outside of the seller's returns policy!) decided to adjust the neck relief. I cannot turn the truss rod in either direction, even with the strings removed, and am obviously very reluctant to apply more force to it. I've read that necks can leave the factories with stuck truss rods, but can be lubed with a drop of penetrating oil. I've also read that such issues require the attention of a tech, or replacement of the neck. For reference, when un-strung, the neck has a very slight back-bow. When strung & tuned, the neck is absolutely straight. Any suggestions please?
  18. Hi all, I hope you're all well, and not too affected by Boris's BS... Having struggled to get a decent brush-on coating, I switched to SprayMax, a 2K poly in a rattle-can. All of which went well, until it came to wet-sanding & buffing... SprayMax gasses off in 10-15 minutes, and cures in 24 hours. To be safe, after 6 coats, I waited 5 days before grabbing the wet & dry, which is when the problems began. I started on the neck, with 600grit on a cork block for the headstock & heel, and without the block for the neck. I went 600/1000/1500/2000/3000/5000, and finally 7000. At this point, it looked beautiful. We're talking baby's backside, and already quite shiny. The following day, I did three applications of Meguiar's M105 cutting compound. Exactly the same procedure with the body. All of this was done in the garden, and it looked stunning. However, when I ran out of daylight, I brought it all inside, and continued working under a daylight bulb, and quickly started to notice what looks like tiny pores in the poly, in random places, which suggests (to me) that I've either sanded through the upper coats in places, or exposed previously hidden bubbles. They only show up from certain angles, but now I can't unsee them. I'm wondering if I should continue with the compound, or go back to wet-sanding, followed by more compound, or whether I should just key it and start again. And I am yet again seeking your opinion/advice. I've attached photos of the surface, firstly a close-up next to the earth strap hole (about 10mm long), to hopefully give an idea of scale. The second shows the patchy nature of the pores. As always, ANY info/recommendations are greatly appreciated. All the very best, Simon.
  19. Oh ok, that’s good to know, flapper it is. Thank you for the advice & heads-up.
  20. Ok, cool. Thanks for the info, Matt.
  21. That’s a cutting disc, same principal as a circular saw, but thanks for getting back to me.
  22. Hi all, I’m struggling to find an angle grinding disc for wood, with a 22mm arbor, max diameter 115mm. I’ve been all over Amazon, eBay and Screwfix, all without success. The only ones I’ve seen either have a 16mm arbor bore, or if 22mm, they’re for steel or stone. Am I looking in all the wrong places, or missing something obvious? Cheers guys
  23. Guys, you rock! I followed your advice & went DI from the driver to the interface, and it works perfectly! Tried recording a passage with the driver on & off, shows up well in the recording. Awesome people of BC, I owe thee all pints!
  24. Heheh! Me too. Thanks loads though for trying.
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