41Hz

The brand new SR1300 I looked at a few months back had Tags saying KTS rods in the case so I think they all have them.

Could be interesting

4 hours ago, Bigguy2017 said:

Yes you could - how much more? Well, that would depend on the bass body shape; all mine have rounded bottoms and would go an extra 20mm - not sure with a T'bird or other shapes.

If you take the back bar out you can offer it up in different positions to experiment...

 

 

Ah thanks, good idea!

On 12/03/2018 at 15:39, Bigguy2017 said:

I recently bought a Hercules GS523B Guitar Rack for my basses.

It's a well made rack but has, to my mind, an annoyance in that it holds guitars canted at an angle.

With basses (longer necks) the heads project beyond the stand's footprint and make it impossible to place it against the wall.

Some though later and I devised a useful mod.

The lower, rear padded crossbar can be mounted in two positions (there are two sets of screw holes 30mm apart). I drilled a third (6mm) hole, 40mm further back and mounted the crossbar there.

The basses now sit much more upright. Another small gain can be gotten by moving the end stops for the sliding mech to the higher set of holes.

The rack now sits (almost) up against the wall and the basses are more upright. Stability is maybe improved too.

See attached crappy pic...

I’ve just picked up the 5 guitar version and thinking of modding.

@Bigguy2017 Before I drill, do you think I could go a bit more than the 40mm gap you suggest to get the basses even more upright or do you think the bars would be too far apart?

I’ve ordered an irig and want to import audio tracks from Apple Music to play over and record myself.

i haven’t used GarageBand before but just had a play around and it won’t let me import stuff from my Apple Music library.

To get around this I wondered if I play a track from Apple Music with a 1/8 stereo cable out of my phone headphone output (with lightning adapter) to 1/4 left/right mono plugs then record the individual left + right channels via the irig would this effectively get a fairly reasonable quality stereo mp3 track from my Apple Music library?

if this doesn’t work are there any other workarounds?

edit- will be using GarageBand on an iPad (I don’t have a Mac)

6 minutes ago, dmccombe7 said:

If its only on the day after playing it is more than likely strain on the fingers.

Do you play hard ?

Could be your technique ?

How long have you been playing bass ?

How long are you playing the bass for the day before ?

Arthritis i'm sure usually affects either both hands or both sets of joints wherever it occurs so doesn't sound like that.

My main advice is go see your GP if its happening too often and its worrying you. Very unlikely that anyone on BC is qualified to diagnose the cause.

Dave

Recently got back into playing a few months ago after a bit of a hiatus, probably just overdoing it as some days I’ve been playing for a couple of hours or more - the longer I’ve been playing the day before the stiffer my fingers the next day. 

Anyone else get this?

left hand finger joints are stiff first thing in the morning if I’ve played the bass the day before, initially can’t make a fist. Wears off within a few minutes of wriggling my fingers. Just want to make sure I’m not doing any damage or starting with arthritis!

How do these look in the flesh? I’ve looked at a few pictures and the green seems to vary from bright green to a duller darker green - could be they change a fair bit with ambient lighting? Also considering the natural flat SR1300.

Thinking about picking up an SR1300 with the ash natural flat finish.

Just wondering how durable these are compared to a shiny poly finish? Will it pick up finger prints, get shiny patches or develop beer stains?

Anyone have one of these or the similar SR600 who can shed some light?

Thanks Aiden, I’m not sure I’d be able to neatly do the trussrod cutout with my dremel, so I’ll most like shell out for a new one.

10 hours ago, Reggaebass said:

Ah so yours is the us jazz ,same pickguard as this one, IMO the cheaper pickguards are not bad ,but if it’s quite an expensive bass I’d opt for the genuine one 😀 maybe keep an eye out on eBay they do come up now and again 

Mines a bit different, the truss rod hole is a bit bigger and it doesn’t have the screw above the neck pickup.

By the way, your neck doesn’t look quite straight, though it might be the angle of the picture. Mine was like that- just slacken off the screws on the neck plate slightly and push the headstock until the E and G string are equidistant from the edge of the fingerboard and the retighten. I swear mine played better after adjusting.

8 minutes ago, Geek99 said:

@41Hz

I’ve got one (new) that you might like - pm me if interested ?

PM sent

Reggaebass -  I see  you have black screws too, is that standard on the fender black guards - think it looks a bit better. The only issue with these ones is mine has the truss rod adjustment at the bottom of the neck, so need the.cutout on the pickguard.

Hi Basschatters,

I’ve got a sunburst jazz with the standard tort pickguard. I know its the classic vintage look, but I’m not keen on tort and thinking of changing to a black one.

The proper Fender pickguards are pretty steep (around £45 with postage). Has anyone gone for a cheapo aftermarket one and if so was it OK? I’d rather bite the bullet and get a Fender one if the aftermarket ones look cheap, but if you can’t tell the difference then I don’t see the point in spending the extra.

Thanks

I'm going to stick with 19mm I think and just try and put it out of my head!

I think I'm going to go for the 19mm spacing too, but annoying the E string in particular now doesn't line up with the pickup.

[quote name='ikay' timestamp='1465587737' post='3069552']
....Alternatively swap the saddles for single groove saddles with 20mm spacing (eg Squier CV type)
[/quote]

Good idea! I assume the saddles are compatible with the US bridge - should be a quick, cheap reversible fix. Has anyone tried this? Anyone know where I can buy these?

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1465586312' post='3069540']
I know it's annoying but many basses have that issue.
[/quote]

It seems to be there by design on every single adjustable bridge fender, not just a few.

As far as I can see the pickups are designed for a 20mm spacing - I think I also read this somewhere, which is impossible to get exactly with the adjustable bridge (strings will be in the range 19-21mm). If you want consistent spacing then you can set to 19mm (like the MIM fixed bridge), but it won't line up with all the pole pieces.

@Mantom Customs - measured from the center of the strings

@Spyder - Yes, I know I should put it out of my head, but concerned it is going to make it more tricky switching to my Yamaha which is exactly 19mm spacing on all strings.

I have developed an unfortunate case of string spacing OCD.

From what I read Fender are supposed to use a 19mm string spacing at the bridge.

My US Jazz came with E - 19mm - A - 21mm - D - 20mm - G (60mm E to G), as picture below.

This gives good alignment with the pickups - e.g. string passes in the middle of the pole pieces



Looking on the pictures on the Fender website (on both Jazz and P-basses), the images show a similar spacing on several basses e.g. 60mm total, but uneven spacing like mine - on some the gap between E and A is 21mm and A and D as 19mm. Some look less than 60mm judging on the bridge positions.

I looked in a music shop today and 2 basses were setup with the 19mm string spacing as below but as with mine then the strings don't line up in the middle of the magnets. Another 2 basses were setup with wider (but uneven) spacing.



Anyone else noticed this?

The only way to get 19mm on the adjustable bridge fenders is to have the strings in the 1-1-3-3 slots (G to E)

Do you set up your bass with the 19mm spacing as above (57mm), or do you set closer to 60mm but with uneven spacing, but closer alignment to the pickups?

It is more the fact the string spacing is variable e.g. 19mm E to A and 21mm A to D that is bugging me.

Thanks guys.

As a relative beginner I'm not yet in a band but that is my longer term aim.

I like the idea of getting a rumble 500 to future proof for my potential future stage debut, but wondered how these performed at home practice volumes which it would be used for in the first instance.

I read a few comments saying amps need turning up a bit to get a good tone.

So would a rumble 100 (or even a 40) sound better than a rumble 500 at very low levels?

Thanks!

Just noticed these on Dawson's website.

P+J config
60's CS pickups
Jazz neck
American standard series

......but £100+ cheaper than AM std Jazz or P bass.

Anyone tried these?
Best of both worlds? (P+J bass) or a bit of a compromise?

Can you let me know the weight?

What about a RBX270J

Mine is 7lb4oz and it sounds and plays great - probably the same pickups as your BB414

PS, looks like there is one on gumtree for £100