AinsleyWalker

I had a 4 year old set of flats on my Musicman but the G string broke today after I took them off, cleaned the fretboard and put them back on, so I suppose I'd better replace the lot. 

Any recommendations on flats without silks? I can't seem to see any online. 

59 minutes ago, gary mac said:

The body was made for me by @gsgbass It's a piece of light weight swamp ash.

Ah nice, it's a little bit lighter than what I'm aiming to go for to be quite honest (the pics I posted are a bit more 'golden'). My ray's body is Ash

1 minute ago, gary mac said:

A couple of pics. 

Looks great! Did you strip the body first yourself as well?

2 minutes ago, gary mac said:

Yes, that's it. It very slightly darkens over time. Just trying to find some pics of my P bass build that I finished with tru oil.

Sounds good.  little bit of darkening wouldn't go amiss, the bass has a maple neck which, along with the headstock, have naturally darkened ever so slightly in the 10 years I've owned it, so I wouldn't want the body to look too fresh/sandy anyway

1 minute ago, gary mac said:

Tru Oil would be my choice. Fairly easy to apply, looks and feels good.  

This stuff? I'm looking for something that won't add any/too much colour to the natural colour of the wood. I'm guessing from the name (compared to their other oils) that this will be suitable?

So my Stingray could do with a paint strip due to some unsightly knocks and dents taken over the years and I'm going to leave it natural. It's a sunburst body, so I can see the grain through the finish and it looks good. 
My friend has the tools/space to help me do it, but I'm looking for advice on what to coat/seal the wood with after the finish has been removed?
I've included 2 pics below for the kind of colouring I'd like to go for. Any advice/brands/products would be greatly appreciated! 

I have a Micro Tron IV and it's an amazing envelope filter, but the Up-Down switch is a really pointless feature.

Both settings have totally different 'sweet spots' on the Gain parameter which are actually disappointingly narrow for getting the pedal to trigger properly. For 'Up' its from around 10-o-clock to 12-o-clock, for 'Down' it's all the way up (around 5-o-clock) to around 4-o-clock. Any other position either doesn't trigger the filter or leaves it open... So while the pedal sounds great while the Gain is in those sweet spots, you don't have much room to tweak at all. 
As you can tell from the positions I've given, the Up and Down sweet spots do not overlap even slightly, so when you hit the Up-Down switch, you have to adjust the Gain before you can even begin to use the pedal again... Which makes me wonder why they even bothered with the switch? It's not like you could hit it while playing live and carry on, you'd have to bend down and adjust the Gain.... So why not just make it a flick switch like the 3leaf Proton? 

Anyone else got one of these and experienced similar things? Genuinely baffling that this is even the case seeing as this is not the first incarnation of the Micro Tron...

1 minute ago, Reggaebass said:

It’s an 1800w gun from B&Q , I can’t remember what make , its in my workshop, I can let you know Monday if you want.

Ok cheers. 
If you could that'd be helpful, thanks mate

On 18/12/2019 at 08:22, Reggaebass said:

I’ve done a few, as leschirons says it’s fairly easy once you’ve removed the parts, just don’t over heat it ,if you are Near East London,  you’re welcome to borrow my heat gun 🙂

Appreciate the offer. What make/model gun is it? Might just be easier to get my own

On 18/12/2019 at 07:39, leschirons said:

I did my Ray myself using a Black & Decker heat gun.  Obviously strip all components and neck off first. Required a light sanding afterwards but took about 20 mins to do the whole body. Mine was solid black so not sure if a SB finish would come off the same. A 2" filler knife lifted off the paint in huge chunks when heated up to bubbling temp.

Thanks for the advice, might try this some time.. Would have to be careful with the heat gun, don't want to damage the wood underneath. 

What did you do after stripping and sanding? Did you apply any oils etc. to the wood? 

Hey! 
I've recently considered getting into understanding the insides of pedals (and circuits in general) and was wondering if anyone had any advice? Good places to start, sources of information, people to speak to etc. 
Something I might aim to take more seriously in the future, depending on work etc, but looking to get to grips with the fundamentals as a starting point. 

Thanks!

Also, I ended up getting the Palmer I posted at the start. It's really good, lots of outputs and almost noiseless so would definitely recommend

10 hours ago, Tomas73 said:

Anyone familiar with this brand and/or model?    'Power Core' by Nordel Audio

I need a power supply too.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00Q8V2IH8/ref=psdc_9735758031_t1_B013SOHTMG

I have one of these, I used it for years and had no real issues at home or live. It's a little bit noisy compared to some higher quality power supplies so I replaced it a few months ago, but for the price it's decent.

1 hour ago, Quatschmacher said:

Switch “envelope mode” slider into one of the other two settings then you’ll have access to the sustain parameter - use this to keep the note playing (in case of vca) or the filter open (in case of vcf).

Oh and read the manual. 😆(Particularly the section on envelopes.)

Haha yes, I do need to give the manual a proper read, I've been so busy lately (teacher training) and so I do appreciate the quick info. Hopefully one day soon I won't need to ask any more  

Looking for some advice. 
Programmed a synth sound to match the bass sound of the track below, and how it 'fades in' (ducks?), but the problem with the editor I find, is that I can't get the note to stay at its 'peak' for long enough. It'll fade/swell in, then after a certain time (the max isn't very long) it'll need to fade back down/suddenly go back down (parameter dependent). What I'm looking to make is a patch that will fade/swell in, but then stay at the 'peak'/open sound for as long as I hold it, but I'm not sure this is possible..
VCA/VCF section looks like this for the simple fade in effect.

Sold! 

It is! Email sent @Leonidaslost

2 minutes ago, Quatschmacher said:

I know it’s becoming a mantra, but please do read the manual. I put a lot of effort into it and am pretty sure it covers anything you could want to know. It has a clear index and is in pdf format so is searchable. There are lots of cool features in there that might not be immediately apparent. In fact, when I went to rewrite it, there was a feature in there that I was unaware of. 

I gave it a read when I first bought the pedal about a year ago, but it was my first real take on programming, so I found a lot of it went over my head and I just messed around with the interface until I was able to make it do what I needed and was able to programme decent patches. 
I think now that I've got a better grasp of the pedal (and synths in general) it would probably be worth going back to it. 
I'll check out the pdf version, as my pedal was brought pre v3, so the manual that came with it might be outdated in sections now

Thanks guys, I'm not sure how I missed this new feature. Appreciate the explanation on the individual reset sections as well.

Anyone got any advice on starting a fresh patch, like a default, removing all parameters/effects etc?

Maybe I'm missing something, but there doesn't seem to be a 'clear all' type feature, which is a bit annoying when you want to make a new patch. I don't always want to have to edit a preexisting one.
On occasions I've taken two different patches, changed ALL the parameters so that they are the same, and they will both sound different... Like some of the features or elements of the old patch are still there in the tone or character... So it's really hard to just start from scratch and really get used to building patches from the ground up.

I'm hoping I've missed a really basic feature that allows me to do this ha!
 

Needs no intro, one of the best and most versatile bass octaves I've ever tried, but surplus to requirements at the moment so moving it on.

Great tracking, loads of volume and low end, with the growl and girth controls giving you really nice control over the tone of the octave. 
The Mid+ button (next to dry control) allows you to boost the midrange frequencies of your dry signal in order to help it cut through. 

Fully functioning, great condition, comes with original box and price includes postage.

I just got a MuTron Micro Tron IV, bit pricey if you have to pay for the US shipping but it's the best env filter I've tried yet!

41 minutes ago, dodge_bass said:

There must be some amp repairers / technicians nearby that could look over it for you?

Yeah most likely, I've not looked into it to be honest. Might do that over the weekend! Thanks for the suggestion

2 minutes ago, dodge_bass said:

I found that the three leaf audio Octabreve is probably the closest emulator of an OC2. I wasn’t a huge fan of the base  octave deluxe to be honest - each to their own  

Yeah they look very good! I'd rather fix up my OC2 than get one of those tbh. 
That's fair, it's definitely different (which is fine because I wanted an OC2 alternative). it's a bit more of a 'run of the mill octave', which is generally what I'd heard about it and expected, but very beefy so I can see it being very usable, if not slightly less unique than the OC2

Just now, dodge_bass said:

It’s a pretty simple soldering job so most people who are handy with a soldering iron should be able to do it. Where are you based?

I'm based in Luton, just north of London.

1 minute ago, dodge_bass said:

That’s interesting. I’ve got a couple and I’m sure that one of these is Japanese and I haven’t noticed any difference in the output. Only been running them on 9V. 

Yeah I did try running mine on both 9v and 12v but didn't notice any audible difference. But I've checked a few forums and pages and it seems that if it says ACA adaptor not PSU adaptor, then it needs 12v to run properly.  But I can't find anything official.