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Posts posted by AinsleyWalker
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17 hours ago, bobbass4k said:
He's looping everything through Ableton so the actual answer could be any number of very specific plugins. There's definitley an envelope filter and octave effects (up and down, maybe 2 down 1 up?) but yeah I also hear a pitch effect - sounds maybe like he's trying to emulate a fretless?
Yeah I do remember him mentioning using Ableton live (and in this clip) so yeah could be plug ins, although I know he has a fairly comprehensive board which he runs guitar/bass through. Could be either here, not sure.
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21 hours ago, Bigguy2017 said:
Autowah + delay?
On the guitar at the start yeah, but I don't think so for the bass part at 1:16.
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2 minutes ago, ped said:
Sounds like an octave up blended with clean to me - possibly one down too but can’t tell on my phone!
That's what I thought when I first heard it, but then I kept hearing some kind move 'movement' of the notes and couldn't help wondering if there was some kind of vibrato/chorus added as well
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bump! open to reasonable offers
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At 1:16 the bass comes in, but for some reason I cannot place my fingers on the effects being used. There are no shots/descriptions of gear used.
Sounds like some kind of vibrato/pitch shift but I'm really not sure, if anyone has any ideas let me know! -
ProCo Rat 2 - SOLDClassic distortion pedalMXR Analog Chorus - SOLD
High and Low filters are very useful for having total control over how much modulation is added to your treble/bass.
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But if you're just looking for black/plain coloured flats, I'm fairly sure La Bella Deep Talking Flats have black silk wrapping on them
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2 hours ago, thebrig said:
Thanks, I must have missed that thread, I've just read it with interest and it seems I'm not alone in my dislike for silk wrapping.
I remember trying some black nylon strings once, I paid quite a bit for them but they had bright gold wrapping which looked hideous over black, they lasted about two days before I removed them. 😫
I think I could live with grey or even black wraps, but not the bright colours unfortunately.
Don't the manufacturers realise that the brightly coloured wraps stop a lot of us buying their strings? 🤔
Haha that thread... I ended up ignoring replies after a while, seem to remember getting some stick from people for 'caring too much' or whatever. Can't help liking things a certain way! 🤷♂️
I don't mind the sight of silks, I just hate when they're badly misaligned, can deal with a few mm or whatever but sometimes you get one, (Often the E string) that doesn't line up and it bugs me haha.
Last time I got my bass setup they put some flats on and they were all aligned perfectly, but people on here seem to think it's impossible to do every time...
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On 23/07/2020 at 08:19, Woodinblack said:
Not sure why it makes a difference if it is active or not, if you want to change your EQ on your pedalboard, there seems to be a lot of options to do it.
Luckily I have all the toneshaping I want on my amp, because I certainly don't have room on my pedalboard!
I've read a lot of opinions about sending a preamp into a preamp (not including the preamp within the amp) and gain stages, issues with noise floors etc.
Like I said I know there are no rules and it's about preference but I wanted to see what people thought. -
So it seems I have had foldover distortion on a lot of my patches due to the sum of the 4 VOLUME sliders being greater than 127, or the saw + sq. + tri in once VCO was greater than 127.
but I tried reducing these numbers and adjusting volume to eliminate foldover distortion and I can't say I hear a whole lot of difference to be honest? i was expecting things to sound cleaner? -
3 minutes ago, Quatschmacher said:
Basically if the sum of volume sliders within a single oscillator goes over 127 then foldover distortion occurs. The same is true if the master volumes of two-or-more oscillators goes over 127. This is a design feature and some interesting sounds can be made with it. Try bypassing the filter entirely and assign the VCF envelope to one of the oscillator volume sliders so that at some point in the cycle the sum of volumes goes over 127. Several of my patches use this feature, usually the ones which are a pseudo FM sound.
What I love about this pedal is that every time I turn it on, or open the editor, or engage in this kind of discussion, I learn so much! While I've made a ton of really great sounds from scratch, there are still large sections of the interface I do not fully understand.
Thanks again for the info, I feel like this is going to be very useful. I'm going to spend some serious time this evening looking into what you've said and reading the manual more as I clearly need to!-
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1 minute ago, Quatschmacher said:
There is no combination of settings which makes a sound warmer. They are simple volume controls, one with a linear taper, the other with a logarithmic taper. You are correct that the old software only had one slider. The second slider was added to give a better response when controlling it with a flexi slot.
Setting the VCO levels is a different matter entirely. You need to pay careful attention to the levels set on both the three waveform sliders within a single oscillator and the levels of the master VCO volumes of all four oscillators. Read the manual section on foldover distortion for an explanation.
I see, thank you very much!
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Hi! Got any general advice for setting volume?
I've been reading a bit about VCF LIN and VCF LOG and what's going on there (there was only one VCF volume on the old software I believe) and I'm finding that setting the LIN lower and the LOG higher gives slightly more warmth to the sound generally? I'm not sure if this is true but it seems to sound better with the LIN lower.
At this point a lot of it is trial and error in terms of setting the volume on each VCO, in the VCF input section (synth) and the LIN and LOG settings.-
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I was wondering if anyone had any experience with running active basses into preamp pedals (for EQ purposes, not talking using things like Darkglass pedals for drive, I know that's amazing from experience!)
I've always found having some form of EQ (used to own a GE-7B) on my board to be really helpful even though both of my basses are active (MM Stingray 4, Ibanez ATK-305) and I've been really interested in getting the Aguilar Tone Hammer or something similar for some more sound sculpting options but I'm undecided if it's 100% necessary.
I know it's all about taste and there's no right or wrong way a lot of the time but I thought I'd see what people's thoughts were first.Cheers!
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Amazing drive pedal, bought new in 2016.
Works great with guitar, bass, synth, just about anything. Use of Tone and Filter controls in conjunction allow plenty of low end through for bass.
Capable of subtle drive to all-out fuzz. Expression pedal input allows you to control the Filter for some useful filter sweep/wah-like effects.Comes with box. Price includes postage.
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33 minutes ago, FinnDave said:
I really think some people should spend more time playing their basses! I have never, ever, considered whether the silk bindings on the strings line up. There are 5 or 6 basses upstairs and I couldn't even tell you what strings are on them, never mind the colour of the silk or whether they align.
The bass is just a tool for making music. Like a screwdriver or a hammer, just more expensive!
Mate first of all you've got no idea how much I personally play my basses, so I'm not sure what the need for snide comments like that are implying I'm sat looking at them rather than playing.... Secondly, this is not about comparison, I'm not interested in whether you've never thought about it, good for you I suppose!
Another example would be how most people I know have pedalboards that are trashed and filled with dust and dirt and they don't care, but I like mine clean, tidy and laid out a certain way and that's just my preference, I'm not interested in what others do or prefer, I've simply come here asking if it's possible to achieve a certain outcome and if not, then no big deal! I'm not losing sleep over it, just asking for advice...
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Just now, fretmeister said:
Measure from the ball end to the start of the silk.
Then cut some off the silk end.
Then measure from the ball end again to the start of the silk. It will not have changed at all.
When you install them they will change because different gauge strings stretch at slightly different rates.
You got lucky with your existing set. Nothing more than that. You could go through 100 sets and never get them lined up again.
I have to say though, I've been playing 30 years and I've never heard of anyone be worried about it, and I have terrible OCD!
Well good for all those other people who aren't worried about it lol, personally don't want my bass looking messy and I think misaligned silks look awful, so if I can get them to line up again then I will. If not, I'll just buy a set with no silks. Not a huge deal, just trying to get some advice.
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7 minutes ago, fretmeister said:
The length it was trimmed at is irrelevant!
That's only the bit that wraps round the tuner. The remains of the string would be the same - the effective speaking length plus the extra between the nut and the tuner and the saddle and the back of the bridge.
You just got lucky.
Even so - the A string isn't level with the other 2.
It's more or less level lol..
I tried putting on a set today and none of them were even within 1cm of each other. Just looked completely stupid. -
3 minutes ago, fretmeister said:
The length it was trimmed at is irrelevant!
That's only the bit that wraps round the tuner. The remains of the string would be the same - the effective speaking length plus the extra between the nut and the tuner and the saddle and the back of the bridge.
You just got lucky.
Even so - the A string isn't level with the other 2.
So you're telling me that I could trim off 1 inch or 2 and the silk would end at the exact same point...?
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3 minutes ago, fretmeister said:
Is trimming them a good idea? Are the silks part of keeping the string together?
The old set here are all different lengths, meaning they've 100% been trimmed down with wire cutters, as you would normally do with any set of strings. They've not unravelled or anything. They were on my bass for nearly 4 years.
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1 minute ago, Reggaebass said:
Unless I’m missing something , you can’t alter the silk length (unless you trim it ), it’s how they are made , out of 14 basses only 2 of mine are in line, as BigRedX says, I think you were just lucky
I did say in the original post that each string had been trimmed to a specific length: "I would believe this, except my old set were all aligned perfectly and each string had been trimmed to fit."
I find it hard to believe that these strings (and the G string) just happened to line up by chance...
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Just now, fretmeister said:
Definitely just luck. They all stretch slightly differently.
If it bothers you I think you'll have to swap to strings that haven't got silks at all.
Unfortunately there are no flatwound strings that have no silks
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Happy 30th Birthday...
in Effects
Posted
I've only owned it since 2016 but didn't know how old it was until now.
The dry output doesn't work so I need to get that fixed, but tbh I mostly only use it for the -1 octave anyway!