AinsleyWalker

Amazing drive pedal, bought new in 2016.
Works great with guitar, bass, synth, just about anything.  Use of Tone and Filter controls in conjunction allow plenty of low end through for bass.
Capable of subtle drive to all-out fuzz. Expression pedal input allows you to control the Filter for some useful filter sweep/wah-like effects.

Comes with box. Price includes postage.

33 minutes ago, FinnDave said:

I really think some people should spend more time playing their basses! I have never, ever, considered whether the silk bindings on the strings line up. There are 5 or 6 basses upstairs and I couldn't even tell you what strings are on them, never mind the colour of the silk or whether they align. 

The bass is just a tool for making music. Like a screwdriver or a hammer, just more expensive!

Mate first of all you've got no idea how much I personally play my basses, so I'm not sure what the need for snide comments like that are implying I'm sat looking at them rather than playing.... Secondly, this is not about comparison, I'm not interested in whether you've never thought about it, good for you I suppose!
Another example would be how most people I know have pedalboards that are trashed and filled with dust and dirt and they don't care, but I like mine clean, tidy and laid out a certain way and that's just my preference, I'm not interested in what others do or prefer, I've simply come here asking if it's possible to achieve a certain outcome and if not, then no big deal! I'm not losing sleep over it, just asking for advice... 
 

Just now, fretmeister said:

Measure from the ball end to the start of the silk.

 

Then cut some off the silk end.

Then measure from the ball end again to the start of the silk. It will not have changed at all.

When you install them they will change because different gauge strings stretch at slightly different rates.

 

You got lucky with your existing set. Nothing more than that. You could go through 100 sets and never get them lined up again.

I have to say though, I've been playing 30 years and I've never heard of anyone be worried about it, and I have terrible OCD!

Well good for all those other people who aren't worried about it lol,  personally don't want my bass looking messy and I think misaligned silks look awful, so if I can get them to line up again then I will. If not, I'll just buy a set with no silks. Not a huge deal, just trying to get some advice.

7 minutes ago, fretmeister said:

The length it was trimmed at is irrelevant!

That's only the bit that wraps round the tuner. The remains of the string would be the same - the effective speaking length plus the extra between the nut and the tuner and the saddle and the back of the bridge.

You just got lucky. 

 

Even so - the A string isn't level with the other 2.

 

It's more or less level lol..
I tried putting on a set today and none of them were even within 1cm of each other. Just looked completely stupid.

3 minutes ago, fretmeister said:

The length it was trimmed at is irrelevant!

That's only the bit that wraps round the tuner. The remains of the string would be the same - the effective speaking length plus the extra between the nut and the tuner and the saddle and the back of the bridge.

You just got lucky. 

 

Even so - the A string isn't level with the other 2.

 

So you're telling me that I could trim off 1 inch or 2 and the silk would end at the exact same point...? 

3 minutes ago, fretmeister said:

Is trimming them a good idea? Are the silks part of keeping the string together?

The old set here are all different lengths, meaning they've 100% been trimmed down with wire cutters, as you would normally do with any set of strings. They've not unravelled or anything. They were on my bass for nearly 4 years.

1 minute ago, Reggaebass said:

Unless I’m missing something , you can’t alter the silk length (unless you trim it ), it’s how they are made , out of 14 basses only 2 of mine are in line, as BigRedX says, I think you were just lucky 

 I did say in the original post that each string had been trimmed to a specific length:  "I would believe this, except my old set were all aligned perfectly and each string had been trimmed to fit."

 I find it hard to believe that these strings (and the G string) just happened to line up by chance...

Just now, fretmeister said:

Definitely just luck. They all stretch slightly differently.

If it bothers you I think you'll have to swap to strings that haven't got silks at all.

Unfortunately there are no flatwound strings that have no silks

So I broke a string on my Musicman Stingray and put a new set of flats on, but the silks didn't line up after I trimmed them down... My previous set lined up perfectly (were put on by a guitar tech friend). 
I tried googling solutions but every site/forum tells me that it's simply not possible to get them to line up perfectly... I would believe this, except my old set were all aligned perfectly and each string had been trimmed to fit. He can't remember exactly what he did (it was over 3 years ago he gave me a set-up), but says he can't imagine doing anything special beyond the 3 machinehead rule.

I may just keep the old strings that I've taken off and try to get a new set to the exact individual lengths as the old set (bar the G string which is no good and in pieces). Anyone think this will be my best bet? Or have any other suggestions that work for them?
Thanks

1 minute ago, Pauld said:

I think they’re D’addario chromes. Mine have blue silks, and only D’addario make strings with different coloured ball ends.

I think you're right! Thanks 

26 minutes ago, jrixn1 said:

Post a photo?  Include both ends of the string, and the ball-ends themselves.

 

Here's a pic of headstock end of strings and the ball-end of the D string. All the balls are different colours. 

6 minutes ago, Silvia Bluejay said:

Normal (non-low tension) Labella flats have black silk, IIRC? I could live with those (but not the strings themselves, though - too stiff for my hands).

Thanks for the rec. I have very little experience with flats, except this one set that have lasted ages and I'm not even sure what they are for comparison  

7 minutes ago, Silvia Bluejay said:

Could be worse... upright bass strings! Both D'Addario and Innovation Silver/Gold Slaps, to name a couple, have a different-coloured silk on each string!

Oh blimey yeah that doesn't sound like a good look!...
 

4 minutes ago, Reggaebass said:

You got me looking at all my string silks now 😄   The LTFs have no silk at the ball end 

Ah apologies to be spreading my pickiness haha!! I think really I just prefer the silver simplicity on non-silk strings, but would settle for silk as long as they weren't red or green (as they'd just clash with my bass too much). 
More interested in quality of the strings, of course  

3 minutes ago, Reggaebass said:

I’ve had flats since 1980 and I don’t recall any having no silks 🙂

He really doesn’t like them does he 😁

Not at all haha! 😂 

3 minutes ago, jrixn1 said:

Ah, I see.  I never gave it much thought before... but now I'm looking at my headstocks and pondering a bit, and I've concluded I'm glad mine are not red 👍 (both are different shades of blue).

@Reggaebass @jrixn1
What brands of flats do you guys go for? I can't even remember what brand my current set are. 

2 minutes ago, jrixn1 said:

Out of interest, what is the objection to silks?

It's not a huge deal for me personally, my current set have blue silks which are pretty low-key, but usually they just look crap, especially bright colours. This comment I found on Talkbass is more extreme than how I feel, but sums it up nicely ha:

3 minutes ago, hooky_lowdown said:

The short answer is no. Some flats come with no silks at the ball end, but ALL have silks at headstock. 

I hate silks on flats myself, I found a set of very old fender flats which have no silk at headstock, these are not sold anymore, all fender flats now have bright green silks at both ends.

Ah that's a shame. GREEN?! What colour bass are they supposed to go with exactly?! 😫

I had a 4 year old set of flats on my Musicman but the G string broke today after I took them off, cleaned the fretboard and put them back on, so I suppose I'd better replace the lot. 

Any recommendations on flats without silks? I can't seem to see any online. 

59 minutes ago, gary mac said:

The body was made for me by @gsgbass It's a piece of light weight swamp ash.

Ah nice, it's a little bit lighter than what I'm aiming to go for to be quite honest (the pics I posted are a bit more 'golden'). My ray's body is Ash

1 minute ago, gary mac said:

A couple of pics. 

Looks great! Did you strip the body first yourself as well?

2 minutes ago, gary mac said:

Yes, that's it. It very slightly darkens over time. Just trying to find some pics of my P bass build that I finished with tru oil.

Sounds good.  little bit of darkening wouldn't go amiss, the bass has a maple neck which, along with the headstock, have naturally darkened ever so slightly in the 10 years I've owned it, so I wouldn't want the body to look too fresh/sandy anyway

1 minute ago, gary mac said:

Tru Oil would be my choice. Fairly easy to apply, looks and feels good.  

This stuff? I'm looking for something that won't add any/too much colour to the natural colour of the wood. I'm guessing from the name (compared to their other oils) that this will be suitable?

So my Stingray could do with a paint strip due to some unsightly knocks and dents taken over the years and I'm going to leave it natural. It's a sunburst body, so I can see the grain through the finish and it looks good. 
My friend has the tools/space to help me do it, but I'm looking for advice on what to coat/seal the wood with after the finish has been removed?
I've included 2 pics below for the kind of colouring I'd like to go for. Any advice/brands/products would be greatly appreciated! 

I have a Micro Tron IV and it's an amazing envelope filter, but the Up-Down switch is a really pointless feature.

Both settings have totally different 'sweet spots' on the Gain parameter which are actually disappointingly narrow for getting the pedal to trigger properly. For 'Up' its from around 10-o-clock to 12-o-clock, for 'Down' it's all the way up (around 5-o-clock) to around 4-o-clock. Any other position either doesn't trigger the filter or leaves it open... So while the pedal sounds great while the Gain is in those sweet spots, you don't have much room to tweak at all. 
As you can tell from the positions I've given, the Up and Down sweet spots do not overlap even slightly, so when you hit the Up-Down switch, you have to adjust the Gain before you can even begin to use the pedal again... Which makes me wonder why they even bothered with the switch? It's not like you could hit it while playing live and carry on, you'd have to bend down and adjust the Gain.... So why not just make it a flick switch like the 3leaf Proton? 

Anyone else got one of these and experienced similar things? Genuinely baffling that this is even the case seeing as this is not the first incarnation of the Micro Tron...

1 minute ago, Reggaebass said:

It’s an 1800w gun from B&Q , I can’t remember what make , its in my workshop, I can let you know Monday if you want.

Ok cheers. 
If you could that'd be helpful, thanks mate

On 18/12/2019 at 08:22, Reggaebass said:

I’ve done a few, as leschirons says it’s fairly easy once you’ve removed the parts, just don’t over heat it ,if you are Near East London,  you’re welcome to borrow my heat gun 🙂

Appreciate the offer. What make/model gun is it? Might just be easier to get my own