AinsleyWalker

6 hours ago, admiralchew said:

The SLO is a fantastic bit of kit. As well as being a tube preamp and DI, it’s has an effects loop, changeable cab sims and a headphone out.

 

Having read the 280+ page preamp thread on another forum, I noticed it got nothing but love and took a chance. I’ve been selling multiple preamps recently but that one has stayed put.

 

I have a Noble too, which is part of my desktop set up, but I’m about to build a new board around the SLO.

 

They are a little difficult to get at the moment as they come from St Petersburg, but I spoke with Shiftline earlier this week; if you want to place an order it’s currently better to email than to try the site.

Thanks very much for the info! I'd love a Noble but it's out of my price range currently, might save up and give Shiftline an email! 👍

Very surprised nobody (as far as I saw) mentioned the Shift Line Olympic MKIII. 
That seems to be the go-to alternative for Nobles on a lot of other forums. 

18 hours ago, itu said:

Could you open up the issue a bit, how is that 510 ohm output bad? 100 ohms is little, but so is 500. That will not load any input. Practically all amp inputs can cope such a low impedance with ease. What are you after?

I'm just after a patchbay with high quality buffers on the input and output. I've done quite a bit of research on buffers and the optimal specs lately and these are the numbers that come up time and time again, and are featured on most good standalone buffers - JHS, Mesa Boogie, TC etc. 

1meg input is optimal for guitar, anything up to 5meg can suit bass (as bass amps are less standardised on their inputs). The Peterson Strobostomp Tuner is about 2meg on input if I'm not mistaken, for example. 
The point of of an output buffer is to drive long lines effectively and stably. The lower the impedance of an output buffer, the better it will do the intended job. Mason from Vertex suggests 80ohms-150ohm for an ideal output impedance. 

While commenting on the Goodwood Interfacer's 500ohm output, he said: "It's a bit high for my liking. 100 ohms is ideal, this is about 5x higher than recommended and won't be as stable on the output with greater capacitive loads."

5 minutes ago, MichaelDean said:

Don't mean to be insulting - geniune question. Why not put a buffered pedal at the beginning of the chain and then have a single buffer pedal at the end? Something like the TC Elec Polytune at the front, combined with their Boneafide Buffer at the other end. Both have the buffer spec you're looking for with a reasonably small footprint even if it is two extra things instead of just the one. Is there something in particular you're trying to acheive?

 

Just realised that you're talking patchbay and I'm not in the efffects forum! That'll be why!

 

Haha no worries! It's a reasonable suggestion anyway that would do the job.
I currently have a little Bright Onion passive patchbay which I use to go to and from my switcher. Replacing it with a buffered patchbay would just be the most logical step 

I'm looking for a patchbay/pedalboard interface that has both an input buffer and an output buffer. (1Meg input, 100ohms output - ideal specs for buffers)

I have found a couple of great options from Vertex and Goodwood, but they're on the other side of the world and/or very pricey. I would contact Bright Onion but they are not currently taking any custom orders, so they're out of the equation for now. 
Goodwood used to do the Bass Interfacer, and now do the larger Custom Junction box (which is double the price at $500...) 

Vertex make custom buffered interfaces but again they're based in the US. They also have videos/instructions on how to make your own, but I'm not sure I have the expertise needed to assemble it to a high quality. 

Something like this would be ideal if it based closer to UK,  or even something simpler which is simply a mono dual-buffered mono patchbay (doesn't necessarily need an FX loop like the Goodwood options above).
There are similar options like the Empress Buffer +, but the buffer specs are not great on the output (510ohms if I remember correctly)

Anyone have any suggestions for UK/European based alternatives? It seems all the companies paying attention to this kind of thing are US/Aus/NZ based  
Thanks!

Pete bought my Darkglass Vintage deluxe. 

Great communication, quick payment, item was posted to him within a few hours of him first messaging me. Top notch buyer!

Cheers Thor (Pete)
Ainsley

19 hours ago, Jack said:

Speak to James at Brightonion. He's done 2 custom projects for me and they're both brilliant. 

Thanks for the suggestion. I've used one of their passive patchbays before and it was decent.
I don't see any specs for their buffers, but I'll give him a message and see what he says, cheers

I'm looking to get a dual buffered junction box/patchbay (buffer on input and output).
Something like the Goodwood Interfacer or the one Vertex Effects make would be perfect, but availability in the UK isn't great. 
Other alternatives could be something like the Mesa Boogie High-Wire Dual Buffer/Boost pedal, but that's steering away from what I want ideally, though it can serve the role of a dual buffer ofc. 

Good buffer specs: 
1M input impedence 
100 ohms output impedence

Any suggestions? Thanks!

PRICE DROP  😁

21 minutes ago, Quatschmacher said:

That would do it and should allow you to take advantage of some of the MIDI functions like freeze and modulation. (I’d still recommend the Morningstar stuff though as it’s more versatile. The MC3 is pretty small.)

Thanks for the feedback! I'll look into  the MC3 as well

Hey! 
I've taken a look through this post and found some answers to my question but they were from a while ago and it's a loong thread so..

Any recommendations for MIDI footswitch controllers to use with the FI? I'm just looking for something to control patch up & down. 
Would something like this do the job?: https://www.disasterareadesigns.com/shop/p/dmc-micro-pro

Thanks!

On 20/09/2021 at 13:57, SumOne said:

 

I found a similar sort of thing with the Vintage Microtubes (non-ultra), I assumed it was vintage as in 60s Motown and Blues kind of thump that you can add a bit of light overdriven tubey breakup to but I got the impression that it's 'vintage' in terms of metal, or perhaps in terms of vintage punk/garage rock sort of stuff - too clanky for me. 

Really? I've been using the Vintage Deluxe for years now and I find it's great for general thump/tone sculpting/light tubey breakup. 

Most definitely. Any of their pedals are versatile, it's all about how you use it like anything. 
I've been using the Vintage range of pedals for years and I never play anything heavy,  I rarely play rock at all anymore tbh.

SOLD

Amazing pedal, great as a preamp, as a drive or as a DI for recording/live use.

Only selling to fund some other purchases.

In great condition and fully working. Super strong brand Velcro on the bottom. No original box.

Collection/meetup in/around London or £5 for UK postage

BUMP! Really need this gone soon, listening to offers

BUMP! Considering offers/trades

SOLD ELSEWHERE

(SOLD)

Bought from Bass Direct in early 2020. Currently in the same condition I received it in.

Best 5 string I've played at this price point, big punchy sound with a very versatile EQ.

Small mark on headstock and small ding in the back shown in pictures.

Active three band EQ, Humbucker pickup and two single coil modes selectable with the 3-way switch.

Jack socket professionally replaced.

Pickup from Clapham Junction preferred but can meet within a reasonable distance.

Does not come with a case.

PRICE DROP now £165

2 hours ago, moley6knipe said:

A new 18v 2000mA centre negative power supply with (I guess the standard Boss size) 2.1mm dc jack doesn’t look to be an easy thing to find, according to a quick scan of eBay… otherwise I’d suggest buying a new PSU that’s UK specific. Hey: they’re all made in China anyway including the stock adaptors!

 

This https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/18V-2000mA-AC-DC-Adaptor-Power-Supply-Charger-5-5mm-x-2-1mm-For-DC18V-0-5A-0-8A-/174766222090?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 *might* do the trick but the listing doesn’t state polarity.

Thanks for the tips. It's working for now, with a new fuse in. But I will aim to replace it when I'm able to. 
 

42 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

 

Ah... the brick is the bit that does the power conversion. That is... worrying. Somehow, the AC adaptor or plug adaptor blew a 13A fuse. That is ungood.

Not good at all... 
 

@Stub Mandrel Problem solved, just needed a new fuse as expected. I put a 3A fuse in the UK plug adapter and all is working as expected. 

But to answer your questions, 
The EU AC adapter was plugged into the UK plug adapter, I then plugged that into an extension cable which caused the sparks and all my electrics to go off. 
My brick was not connected to the AC adapter when this happened (which was just an oversight, I would normally connect that first).

And yes I agree the Thomann adapters are great, I ordered an Eden combo from them a while ago which came with the type of adapter that you're describing. 

6 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

 In my experience, a short inside a cheap extension cable than either a power brick or the decent quality adaptors Thomann supply.

I've just checked my emails and it turns out I ordered this from Gear4Music, so I have no idea why it doesn't have a UK plug...

14 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Yes. It should ideally be a 3A fuse for such a low-power unit, or a 5A if none available.

 

I very much doubt a 13A fuse has blown without damage to the unit.

 

When you say it 'sparked' where did this happen? To set off the main board you must have had a short. In my experience, a short inside a cheap extension cable than either a power brick or the decent quality adaptors Thomann supply.

Thanks for the reply. 
So do you think the entire power adapter is finished? It wasn't plugged into the brick at the time, so that would not have been affected.

It sparked when I plugged it into a cheap extension cable. I've since binned that extension cable. 

I've since tried my adapter from a different extension cable but it is not powering the brick.

I'm using a Palmer PWT 12 to power my board (https://www.gear4music.com/Guitar-and-Bass/Palmer-PWT-12-Pedalboard-Power-Supply/2H1U?origin=product-ads&gclid=Cj0KCQiAtJeNBhCVARIsANJUJ2EaUvoVsWY9YcCD5E6RH0i0j_skk8t8b8088_sy1x75KBzUGreIyxsaAk9yEALw_wcB)
Never had any issues with it until today.
I just plugged it into the usual extension cable I use to practise and it sparked, knocking off all the electrics in the flat, bar cooker power and lights (none of my pedals were connected to the power brick at the time). 
I've got all the plugs etc back on, but my power supply adapter isn't working. 
Mine has a European plug and has a UK plug adapter (provided by supplier at time of purchase)
EDIT: I have just checked my emails, and I ordered from Gear4Music at the end of 2019, so I have no idea why it has a European plug.

The UK plug adapter has a fuse inside, so I planned to replace that and try hooking it up again. However when comparing the info on the fuse to the info on the UK plug adapter, there are differences

The fuse itself says:
13A, 250V, BS1362

The UK plug adapter says:
FIT 3A (5A) FUSE
BS 5733

250V

2.5A (5A)

I know very little about this kind of thing so I am hoping someone might be able to help me with the following:
A) Was the wrong fuse in there?
B) What kind of fuse I need to go and get now?
 

Thanks!

EDIT: 
Replacing the old fuse with a new 3A fuse has solved the problem, thanks!
 

SOLD! Thanks Jim