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loweringthetone

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Posts posted by loweringthetone

  1. I recently bought an LMK from Old Horse Murphy as a 2 channel replacement for my LMII. I thought the LMK was just a 2 channel LMII and would sound exactly the same, but now Im not so sure...

    I did a direct comparison. At the same settings (12 o'clock everything, using only channel 1 on the LMK) and using the same high quality leads etc.

    - the LMK was noticeably louder (needed less volume), was more punchy and seemmed to have more 'balls' than the LMII. It also ran hotter - the amp was noticeably warm.
    - the LMK made an Aguilar GS112 (tweeter version) sparkle, whereas the LMII didnt fire up the GS in the same way - it just gave lots of bass.
    - the LMII gave a beautifully pure and smooth P bass sound with my rosewood f/b '75 precision and also seemed to more accurately map in a hifi way the sounds of other basses. This included input from another amp - a GK150MBE which gives a very distinctive colour.
    - these trends were apparent though a GS112 and also when the same amps were used with a very different sounding cab - a 210 Markbass Std with Neos.
    - a Ricky 4001 with stainless strings, was just too zingy through the LMK/210 combination and needed tons of EQ to get it under control, but surprisingly was more smooth and controllable using the LMII/210.

    To me, these rather subjective tests all point to the LMII having less top end than the LMK, and I know some members of the forum have suggested the LMII might suffer roll off of top end. However I cant explain the enhanced loudness or ballsiness of the LMK.

    The LMII is dated 01- 2007 and I bought from new,.
    The LMK is dated 10-2007 and also appears to be in very good nick. I noticed that the input jack was a bit crackly (dirt ?) but othewise it seems fine.

    Are these amps just different ?? Any experiences or explanations you could share would be much appreciated

    Thanks & best wishes

    Colin

  2. I bought an LMK head with ears and pedal.
    Good communication. Arrived quickly. Packed comprehenisvely and exactly as described.

    A great guy to deal with :)

  3. [quote name='budget bassist' post='221683' date='Jun 18 2008, 08:10 PM']That's a NICE looking rick! good luck with the sale!

    And don't forget to contribute a bit in the forums, joining just to sell is a bit rude :) (not that i'm saying that's what you did)[/quote]

    Nice Rick and a few more on the wall I see. Just wondered how you rate the Maple against the black 4001/3 you have ? I have found the 4003's from the late 80s to be a bit more chunky around the neck than later or earlier models.

    Tell all please

  4. My experience with Roundwounds . I play fingerstyle.

    Ive tried many types of Roundwounds on different basses over the years but I always seem to keep coming back to Elites Stadium 40-100 ( in the gaudy blue and yellow packets). Not as expensive as many, but very musical and, although they start off bright, they soon settle in. On a modern 5 string with a 34" scale eg Stingray5 or G&L2500 I'd use Elites 45-105 for good power but with a 130 to help prevent flapping of the B string. This is if you dont mind fretting a string the thickness of a bridge support cable !

    On a Rick 4003 I remeber using Elites 40,60,80 but replaced the usual 100 with a 105 because of the slightly shorter scale length.

    I remember Thomastik Powerbass helped me with a fender with a dead spot (the change of strings minimised the dead spot, for some reason) but seemed to lack the musicality of the Elites on other basses

    DR Low riders, Rotosound rounds (of all types) just dont seem to cut it for me, but worst of all were Warwick reds, which I found gave a strange grinding tone.

    If you want a bright zinginess by the shedful, then Ernie ball stainless steel types are a good bet in my experience.

    Just my 2pth which I hope will be useful

  5. [quote name='scrawntcher' post='206144' date='May 25 2008, 08:12 PM']jeez im here to swap a bass if you guys want to argue then do it on the argue thread ...christ!

    will be putting pix up in about 30 mins ...rog[/quote]

    Yes please Rog...cant wait. I've never seen a Boudicea

    Can I make a suggestion to everyone else? Its clear poor Rog didnt deserve to run into this hailstorm. But there is an issue about the forum being used as a classifieds, rather than a discussion forum, and this rankles with me too. Where on the forum can we have a discussion to sort this out ?? Machines as boss dude can you redirect us please if its not already happening ?(PS Any lightheartedness may be overshadowed by the gravitas of your TERRIFYING avatar ! It scares me !)

    Good luck Rog. Pics awaited with eagerness

    Best wishes
    Colin

  6. [quote name='Hiperi0n' post='203238' date='May 20 2008, 08:51 PM']Just to tell the bass was sold today...
    in my opinion and very objective..sabre are great basses and worth every penny..i have another sabre that will never sell...it's a 79...but i have to say that i haven't heard great differences beetween the 79 and 84 , different preamps , but the sabre sound is all there...very very powerful with a nice tonal variations available...great bass[/quote]

    Excellent well done.

    Did it sell to someone on the forum or was it ebay or local ?

    Keep the 1979 sabre . I wish I had !!

  7. [quote name='axl33' post='202892' date='May 20 2008, 02:42 PM']Thanks everybody for your help & direction. I am going to put it on Ebay by next week it should be up & running if anybody wants to check it out.I will put it under Shergold Modulator 2 so if you like get it there. I will withdraw the Shergold from Basschat in a day or so incase somebody does want it. The bass plays & sounds great, i jammed on it all morning to see if it has balls & it does. Thanks again for the help.[/quote]

    A bit more help. I have a similar one, and I think the bridge you have is mostly original ,but not entirely - the piece of metal on the top looks to be added aftewards. This is simply a Shergold Modulator Bass - the No2 refers only to the module which is interchangeable - Its a more powerful bass but its a bit neck heavy as the top horn doesnt quite reach far enough - depends on the neck weight. Shergoldsnickers is right about the finish and the flexibility. With the odd bridge I guess £250 to £350 on Ebay if the shipping costs dont put people off. Theres a lot more on Andrew Mannerings excellent website www.shergold.com.

    Welcome to Basschat , hope this helps and good luck with the sale !
    Colin

  8. Here's a bit of individual experience for potential buyers if you are planning to invest in this as a proud gigging instrument. The large slide switch shows this to be the later type of PreEB Sabre. It would be good to know the serial and date on the neck/body, as the later ones especially 1983-4 seem to have been assembled from whatever was to hand. The earlier models 1979-1980 had individual small switches. I had one of the earlier ones and it was an absolutely superb rock bass: loads of punch power and depth. Pre EB Stingrays and Sabres famously went through many versions of pre-amp, and I suspect this is why some Sabres I have tried sounded rather nasal. The weight varied a lot too. Therefore with Sabres I feel its worth trying before you buy, to see if it has the sound/weight you need. £1300 will get you a lot nowadays and certainly a more sophisticated tight and refined bass than a Sabre , but if you want a sound thats dirty and brutish, mine gave it in spadeloads. A much underrated bass in my opinion, and the neck made it slick to play. More info on the superb site by Rod Trussbroken [url="http://myweb.ecomplanet.com/TOWN8019/"]http://myweb.ecomplanet.com/TOWN8019/[/url].

    I hope this helps, and perhaps Hyperion can give us some (objective !) info on the tone capabilities/weight of this particular instrument and some dating information.

    Best wishes

    Colin

  9. [quote name='loweringthetone' post='169968' date='Apr 4 2008, 07:30 PM']At least one cab still up for sale. Anybody like one ?[/quote]


    Postage to UK including N.Ireland is :
    - Special delivery (next day) £19.45 - includes £500 insurance
    - Parcel post (up to 4 days) £11.45 + £3.50 insurance = £14.95

    So at maximum
    £150 + ££19.45 = £170 which is £59 off the GAK price

  10. Time to simplify. My personal rule of thumb is to take 1/2 to 2/3 of new shop price as being reasonable, if it's not been hammered. Any lower may be a bargain, but is more likely to be modifed/ damaged/knackered/stolen. Anything higher has to be in perfect nick, or a truly exceptional instrument that feels like my perfect partner, or has a sound that melts in my knees like ...... hmm.......a pint of Harvest Gold (best beer of Britain 2007)

    Vintage gear is another world entirely, and much more subjective/market forces/whims of the time. However, a good rule for me is never to even consider anything at Denmark Street prices. I look on ebay for final prices and dont just take one, but at least 3 if possible. Sometimes convincing folk that age doesnt mean it's a good or desirable musical instrument can be difficult. I once saw a guy advertisie a refinished 1966 Baldwin Burns at £10,000 because his mate had a 1960s Strat. I just couldnt convince him that it was worth perhaps less than 20th of price. Its probably still in his garage and probably got woodworm.. Ho hum. Im sure we have all heard tales like this.

  11. Hi folks

    This is the matching 1x12 speaker cab for the MB150S and MB150E combos.

    Metal cased and built like a tank.

    I have 2 available, bought for a project that never materialised. Both are in excellent condition bar the odd mark and have been hardly used . Price £150 each plus postage. Glad to sell individually but no offers or trades thanks.

    I'm in Nottingham.

    Colin

    PS GAK (the cheapest place I can find) is selling them for £229 plus £10 delivery.

  12. [quote name='Hiperi0n' post='148505' date='Feb 28 2008, 04:58 PM']mmm i really dunno that...but how i can identify an original scratchplate from a not original one? i don't think stingrays pickguards have serial numbers under like 70's jazz
    For sure it is wonderful with the tortoise...would be cool also with a black one (you can find easily on ebay)[/quote]


    Im pretty sure black or white would have been the original colour. In the serials listing of Pre-EB Stingrays ( the superb site by Gavin (Rod Trussbroken) [url="http://myweb.ecomplanet.com/TOWN8019/"]http://myweb.ecomplanet.com/TOWN8019/[/url] ) the torts are listed as replacements or non-original.

    Only reason I mention it is that I had just the same problem - the guy who sold me my SR4 gave me a black white and a tort guard ! It took me ages to find out which was the original one.

    Anyhow, it sure does look great with the tortie. Good luck with the sale !

  13. Sorry to ask this, but are you sure that finish is original ? Do you know the history of the bass ?

    The reason I ask is that, the body is a yellow/red fireglow sunburst, whereas the headstock appears to be a darker and uniform colour. I've had quite a few 4001 Rickys in my time and on fireglow/autumnglow models the headstock has always been sunburst finish that reflects the body colouring. In contrast a burgundy rick (which is a non sunburst colour) has a uniform colour and looks just like yours.

    Maybe it's the lighting conditions under which you took the headstock picture, if so perhaps you might post some more ?.

    Whatever, GOOD LUCK WITH THE SALE !

    Best wishes :)

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