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rmorris
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Posts posted by rmorris
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Oops typo in title 🙄
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Weston's bass neck. I was interested until I saw the defret.
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On 16/12/2023 at 17:36, chriswareham said:
Best: An Acoustic Control Corporation 136 combo, purchased from a fellow BassChatter. Replaces an ACC 140 head that I used to own, as it's the same head combined with a 15" speaker.
Worst: A Rickenbacker 4003. The neck on my battered Hondo Rick copy broke at the heel (it was a bolt on with most of the heel routed out to fit the neck pickup). Since I play in a Joy Division tribute act I needed a suitable replacement quickly, and this 4003 popped up locally on Gumtree at a reasonable price. Having now played it live several times, I find that the neck flexes leading to intonation issues (perhaps the more recent ones with a proper truss rod are better).
Interesting if disappointing. What's the issue with the type of truss rod ?
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On 31/12/2023 at 19:46, nilebodgers said:
What did you get? It’s a problem I need to solve too.
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1 hour ago, redbandit599 said:
Two good purchases for me.
Sire P5, 5 string passive. Never had a P bass and I wasn't shelling out for a USA Fender. It's rather good now I'm getting used to the tone ( different from my Warwick!) even put flats on it. The tort scratchplate had to go through 😉
Also, my GR208 cab. 500 watts and 4 ohm, only 10kg. As we always have full PA now think this may be the death of my big rig. Awesome little thunder box.
What flats did you put on there. I'm thinking of giving flats another go on one of my basses but wary as didn't get on with previous go. Happy New Year.
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You need to 'ground' those screws. Sounds like they are floating and helping you become a radio transmitter 😳
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12 hours ago, Stub Mandrel said:
I'm interested too... currently put up with removed armrests so I can play instead of work...
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On 31/12/2023 at 19:46, nilebodgers said:
What did you get? It’s a problem I need to solve too.
Argos.
https://www.argos.co.uk/product/9203176
It's a bit "Boy Racer" but actually rather good without spending £100s.
Lots seem to be "mesh" material but I don't think they would survive our cat 😳
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Bit tangential. But needing a new desk chair - got one for Christmas that has flip up armrests so I can play bass/guitar seated in front of mixer without awkward manoeuvring.
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On 13/12/2023 at 19:07, Lozz196 said:
I have best which are my Fender JMJ Mustang basses, and then the worst - even though they’re amazing they’re not as good as the JMJs - my Squier Classic Vibe Mustang basses. So I suppose I’m rather fortunate on this one with best being super amazing and worst being just amazing.
How would you characterise the differences Fender Vs Squier ?
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Wrt One: you just have to try it basically. Speaker load impedances are complex as it's a reactive load and actual power delivery will depend on the details. In particular any Zobel network in the amp or can. Then add on the acoustic efficiency of the cab across the frequency range. And fwiw a basic doubling of power into a speaker results in only a minor increase in loudness as heard due to the quasi logarithmic nature if hearing response.
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If you like the bass then get it along with the amp for that money. Those Encore basses are usually good quality even though budget end kit. Not sure why so intent on pickup change at this stage. Get it checked over and setup to your preference eg string height / neck relief / nut slotting etc. That will be of more benefit for a new player. Include new strings. Good Luck.
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22 hours ago, sandy_r said:
Using a suitable type of wood, and aligning the grain, to fill a hole for redrilling has nothing to do with "sonic difference", and everything to do with ensuring that the new drilling and screw fitting process goes smoothly, and is as close to achieving the same accuracy and stability of the drill and screw action as with the original work (this is especially important to accurately and securely locate something as technically demanding as these two parts under great string tension)
Overthinking it tbh. The dimensions involved make grain orientation insignificant. Really you just need enough added material for the screws to properly bite enough esp wrt the, as you say high tension. I do like the idea of the threaded inserts/ machine screws though. I can see arguments against wrt thread / fit tolerance etc. But I say that is taken care of by the aforementioned high tension from the strings.
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I'll stick my neck out (see what I did there 😊) and suggest that in reality it makes no significant sonic difference. Just wood glue a cocktail stick or two in there, leave it to dry for some days regardless of what it says on the tube etc. Finish it flush, and rescrew. Although if planning to remove / refit neck often then inserts may be a good choice.
Note that machine screws/threads come in loose / medium / tight grades wrt thread fit. The default is medium. I suggest just giving the screwba tiny extra bit of force into the thread. Recommend hex or torx screw heads. North American people may wish to look at those "square" bit drivers.
In general they seem not to be a thing in Europe ?
And, of course, we should all be sticking to metric units now 🙂
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Well you can clearly get back to whatever was the original situation. It seems clear that the wear and tear aspect of removing / refitting the pickguard etc. has weakened the connection - foil is thin and easily broken / torn etc.
Advice has also been offered for simple ways to improve beyond that.
I don't see what the problem is tbh.
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4 hours ago, Hellzero said:
That said @Dazed, a short video with the noise itself and the way you suppress it by touching (but with what?) the ground might help.
It might also be oxidation of the output jack where the inner metal part is supposed to touch the lead ground...
It seems the noise goes away when the OP touches grounded parts so the Ground connection seems fine.
It is proper screening that seems critical here. And keeping in mind that a P type pickup is always susceptible to noise to some degree. And even with good screening a passive bass has little immunity to H field noise (eg from a mains transformer).
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The fact that the noise disappears when you touch the grounded metal parts - bridge etc - shows that it's properly connected in that sense so that's good.
What's left is screening. Is the screening shown well connected to ground (often this is via pot bodies but these can get loose,
And is the rest of the control cavity screened ? and the pickup cavity - maybe a screening plate / foil underneath the pickup ?
Also a different pickup might be less susceptible to noise.
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16 hours ago, gt4ever said:
I’m talking about the tiny black hex screws that lift the saddle with 2 on each.
I think that's what Paul means too ?
But if screws don't fit then a friendly engineering workshop or machine shop might be able to use a threadfinder device to determine thread. If it's a non standard thread for some reason then you could consider retapping the holes to take a standard size.
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3 hours ago, Jonbass12345 said:
Hi does anyone know what bulbs were used to back light the HH sign on these amps? Also does anyone know of a replacement eq that can be fitted to these amps
thanks
Jon
Do you have a photo to confirm the amp ?
IIRC there were several models that were designated "Bass Baby" or similar name.
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1 hour ago, sandy_r said:
Hi
Passive controls for multiple pickups will always have issues due to compromises made in trying to make a mixer without powered components. The compromise is between useful mixing action and losing signal level from the guitar
The problem is caused by 'loading' of the signal by the pickup impedances and pot resistance sections interacting as the pot wiper position is moved from full vol position (The 'optimal' technical solution for mixing signals is to use an active circuit)
Adding a very high impedance input buffer (eg simple FET buffer/amp) between guitar and pedals/amp may help somewhat
If you want to keep your bass passive and you're ok with some DIY wiring you could re-configure the existing HB wiring (sounds nasty, but is only moving 2 wire connections and adding 2 resistors) as shown in my suggested mod below. This mod will need a higher gain setting, in general, on the amp but should then reduce the interaction between Vol controls when adjusting one/both during a session
With the existing 250K ohm pots, you could try 100K ohm resistors (shown in blue on the circuit) - move each pickup signal wire (ie. not its ground wire) to the outer connection on its pot, and connect a resistor to the wiper. The other ends of the 2 resistors are connected together and then join at the Tone pot
Using lower values for the resistors (eg 50K or 25K) can reduce the general loss of signal level but will start to give more loading/interaction between the 2 Vol controls again - it's worth trying this to check the result
(Changing the Vol pots from 250K to 100K [Audio taper] and halving the resistor values could also help with reduction of general signal loss in the mod, but this would significantly increase the complexity of making the mod!)
Hope this helps
Good ideas. But be aware that the 100K resistors will increase the broadband "hiss" noise. It may not be an issue in the context of an electric bass but it might be noticed in studio etc.
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From your description I think a buffered / active summing system might suit you better. Suggestion - fit 'stereo' TRS output jack Buffer / DI each pickup separately and then sum in a small analogue mixer. Eg Soundcraft Spirit Folio. Old but often at a bargain price on eBay.
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Along the lines of the suggestions above (although I think pliers may still have clearance problems) - there is a tool used in camera repair/maintenance for taking lens assemblies apart that would likely be useful.
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3 hours ago, Plankton said:
I too live in… Hove actually 😂
lovely to make your acquaintance!
The Hovarian plot, reaps its latest victim.
You’ll move to hove actually, eventually!
Haven't you heard ? So called "Hove" has been upgraded and is now officially "Brighton West" 🤣
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Bass action?
in Repairs and Technical
Posted
All things being equal you'll need a higher action compared to a standard six string electric.