rmorris

DM sent.

I'm interested in a couple of PCBs. Although just one is fine if demand outstrips supply as not wanting to be 'greedy'. Will DM to ask price and postage if you decide to sell the spare bare pcbs.

On 21/02/2024 at 08:47, LukeFRC said:

So now I’ve got the subscription I can ask this here…

 

I made a pcb up for my clone of a ss/bs mini - it sounds amazing and can go from low gain barbershop style od to fill on fuzz. Went together ok, not pro level pcb, two traces missed and my resistors were slightly bigger than the footprint I used.

 

where I ended up  - I have 9 spare pcb - one is going to a mate - so I’ve made an instruction document …

 

so should I …

 

1) chuck the pcb

2) sell them on here - I was thinking “buy me the equivalent of a beer”. 

3) I’ve had one person tentatively ask for a made up one - so make a small run and sell ? 
4) something else ?

  
 

the missed traces 🤦🏻‍♂️

 

I used a fuzz dog 3pdt pcb and two of their “fet pets” for the smd jfets 

1590b - of course! 

You have schematic / BOM for these ?

Of course, the real answer is to go headless 🙂

17 hours ago, LeftyJ said:

This has always boggled my mind: I don't understand the benefit of, for example, that weird extended low B that some Fodera's have.

 

 

 

That looks so wrong 😳 I honestly can't work out how the B, E and A strings are supposed to work with that headstock. 

Those breakout angles ain't right 🤣

12 hours ago, ead said:

This a lot to do with physics surely.  

Yes. It's all Physics. Everything is. It's a matter of how we understand and interporate it.

There seems to be a lack of people mentioning string guages and string types here. It's a critical part of the equation defining the string tension required. It's related to, but not the same as string flexibility. Flexibility is affected by string make up eg hex or round core. Ratio of core to winding.

As with short scale in general, harmonic response may be impaired by a thicker string but the tension decreased. Many feel that the extra "snap" of the thicker string and the lower action possible compensates.

On 09/02/2024 at 12:49, Geek99 said:

Mine are 14 and 9 with sleep issues. Tried to do some practice on Monday and I had literally played one note (silent) and she came down 

So it wasn't actually silent ? Or....

On 07/02/2024 at 21:50, rmorris said:

There are YouTube etc videos showing doing this with flexible sanding blocks. 

Smoothing and rounding the fret edges and "rolling" the fretboard edge to give a "deluxe" feel to eg an inexpensive Affinity Strat.

And using progressively finer grit to achieve a polished finish.

Tip: if in UK - Superdrug sell a nail filing block with different grits on the four faces.

Obvs this would be more difficult with Stainless Steel frets but guessing that's not the case here or with less expensive instruments.

Note to my own post - don't do this if you have a bound neck 😳

There are YouTube etc videos showing doing this with flexible sanding blocks. 

Smoothing and rounding the fret edges and "rolling" the fretboard edge to give a "deluxe" feel to eg an inexpensive Affinity Strat.

And using progressively finer grit to achieve a polished finish.

Tip: if in UK - Superdrug sell a nail filing block with different grits on the four faces.

Obvs this would be more difficult with Stainless Steel frets but guessing that's not the case here or with less expensive instruments.

On 29/01/2024 at 07:35, MrDinsdale said:

I’ve just been using MagSafe phone mounts to attach my computer keyboard to a stand. Got me wondering if there was any feasible way of using the same approach for pedals or if they’d interfere with the signal?

 

Im guessing it’d be questionable for digital effects. 

Shouldn't be a problem. Permanent magnets I assume. Think about it - they get attached to phones !

3 hours ago, Rich said:

 

I tried Fuzzdog's optocoupler bypass, and their buffered bypass, neither of which did much. I reduced it a bit by adding 5M pull down resistors on the send and return (I used 5M because they were the biggest I had in my resistor box), but there is still a pronounced electrical click/pop. There's only one pedal in the chain, and it's a Zoom MS-60B.

 

 

Okay. So it seems that it's a 'DC Click' rather than a switch bounce issue. Sounds like you might need to lower those pull down resistors to give a faster time constant. Yeah - I know it affects the impedances.

fwiw the 'proper' way to switch without clicking is to ramp the switching so that the dc level doesn't change abruptly. SSM used to make switching ics that did this very nicely from a low voltage supply (5V IIRC) by using internal charge pumps to drive switching FET devices. Sadly no longer manufactured. You can do it with discrete parts but it's a bit of a fuss with having to generate a suitable voltage rail to turn a jfet switch off. Although it depends on the audio level and how fussy you are about offness and crosstalk.

9 hours ago, Rich said:

I'm still trying to de-click my send/return loop pedal switch thingy, it's better than it was but still not great. I happened across this circuit board which appears to be just the ticket -- jack input/outputs to 'Input' and 'Output', send and return to 'B_In' and B_Out', and a momentary footswitch attaches to, errm, 'Switch', and that appears to be it. Oh, and a 9v supply. On paper, it appears to be the ticket. I wish it was available as just a PCB, as all bits are easy enough to source and I like soldering  . Anyway, I've ordered one to give it a whirl and will report back.

What's the nature of your click problem ? How did you improve it to some extent ? What pedals etc are at the start/end of fx chain ?

To a large extent the viability of a short scale depends on how hard you play and the degree of string slap/buzz you are willing to tolerate. 

Common wisdom actually dictates lower guages at shorter scales to give better harmonics but I've always found the greater tension of eg 45-105 strings to more than compensate for that.

Maybe a comprise @ eg 32 inch ,?

fwiw it's now priced @ £22.95 ex shipping.

Be aware that style of moulded plug usually has poor screening at the plug ends. Youi might not be bothered about it of course.

1 hour ago, Cat Burrito said:

I don't know. I posted this in 2009 and I haven't spoken with the aforementioned "missus" who owned the nail polish remover in almost 14yrs! It always used to work with bog standard nail polish remover but if you are not sure, best leave it. 

Ahh! I didn't see the date on that !

I think the non-acetone stuff would be safe but maybe not as effective.

On 21/01/2024 at 17:36, Obrienp said:

Do you find it as effective as copper tape? I’ve had basses that had cavities painted with graphite paint from the factory and they are still noisy. Put copper tape over the paint and the noise disappears. Of course, the factory might not have put as many layers on as you do but it has made me default to copper tape as the best solution.

I know the question isn't directed at myself but I do know about this stuff so so fwiw...

The conductive (carbon loaded) paint is technically not as effective as RFI shielding as properly applied copper. But it can be very effective to the point where it is not the weak link in the scheme of things. 

And, yes, as someone commented the problem is often with it not being properly applied. I've seen it where the coverage is patchy etc.

On 21/01/2024 at 16:31, neepheid said:

Sorry, I'm a copper pervert.  There's something I find very satisfying about a shiny, copper lined cavity.  Mmm, shiny.

Shiny Shiny Shiny Boots of...Copper 🤣

On 19/01/2024 at 15:47, PaulThePlug said:

For a one-off... One of those 2 cup holders from Mc'D

Ha. I don't really know what that is but I'll pop into a local outlet and try and take a look 🙂

On 17/08/2009 at 14:47, Cat Burrito said:

The only one you don't seem to have tried is my suggestion of nail polish remover. Grab some off the missus (or a young emo kid!?!) and check it out. It really does work and I've used it on several of my instruments in the past.

Do you mean Acetone based nail polish remover ? Asking because lots of npr is now acetone free.

On 16/08/2009 at 13:27, Hot Tub said:

Try mayonnaise. Seriously.

Interesting

On 19/01/2024 at 15:18, Geek99 said:

This 

Gak

https://www.gak.co.uk/en/hercules-ha206-neck-cradle/108652?gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIv8O04d_pgwMVmYtQBh2VRgvxEAQYAyABEgJxfvD_BwE

Yes. I was looking at that one. I thought it might be a bit lightweight for fretwork but maybe I'm wrong about that 🤔

Thanks for the input. Just wanting to keep it rock solid stable. For general woodwork etc I'd just say just clamp it in a vice. But, you know, these are my babies (along with catboy 😊).

Asking the collective here...what do you recommend for a neck cradle. In specifics I want to stabilise basses to file nut slots.

I see people using / recommending all types of things from a bag of rice, those "rocking" supports that you can also turn over for greater lateral support, to the Dunlop black one that looks good to me but a bit £££ if it doesn't hit the spot for this.

Advice appreciated.